After doing body work off and on for about 20 years, I decided that I should try using lead on my current restoration job. I am aware of the health hazards and am taking the precautions recommended by Eastwood who sold me the kit. Surprisingly, it wasn't that difficult and the first repair looks excellent (69 Chevelle behind drivers front tire). It was a patch panel that didn't fit (typical) and I hated the amount of filler it required so I ground it out and used lead. Maybe some of you have suggestions for me that could help to keep me from making basic mistakes in finishing the panel. First, can body filler be applied directly to lead? Second, I religiously use etching primer over bare steel but the video warned against etching lead - how do I etch the steel where it meets the lead to prevent surface rust without creating a lead problem? Third, I use a polyurethane 2K surfacer and need to know if that is suitable to be sprayed over lead. Any other things that you can suggest will help since I am new to this but love the results.

I don't have any experience with lead work, but if you have cable, you might want to check out "a car is reborn" on discovery home channel (I think).

They are redoing a jaguar and have an episode where they are doing lead repair on a fender. They run the series often (saw the episode last weekend for the second time). Probably won't answer all your questions, but might get something out of it.

Isn't there anyone with some advise. I know that some of the oldtimers have experience and I am pretty confident this is the best way to smooth over the rough spots - at least better than bondo.

This comes up fairly frequently here. Try doing a search in this forum for the words "lead" and "filler". You'll get lots of advice, and almost all of it will be "Don't use lead".

Just a peeve: "Bondo" is a brand name for a specific cheap filler. Good filler is much better than Bondo. Fillers have come a very long way in the last couple of decades.

Reid

Us the metal etch on the steel up to the edge of the lead. Don't do anything to the lead except wipe it clean with lacquer thinner.
Then spray the 2K over everything.
To further even the surface if need be, use a filler (Evercoat makes great) over the 2K that's compatible over urethane. ASK the supplier and read labels.
A lot of the problems with lead and paint problems caused by lead, is the flux or acids leaching back out through heat & cold cycles afte the paint is applied. I've seen some old-timers slightly heat the finished surface and apply a wet baking soda solution paste over the lead to absorb any risidual acids, flux's or whatever. Maybe cheap insurance.

As for the advice about not using lead, I have a firm belief that the best restoration jobs are done with a bare minimum of plastic filler. The information I have seen still indicates that lead is preferred disregarding all the complications that come with it. Regarding the other suggestions about using the etching up to the edge and the baking soda to help eliminate the acids, thanks for the ideas. I will continue to look for ideas about improving the paint adhesion since I don't see the lead adhesion to the steel as an issue - it seems easy if you follow the directions.