Once I get my new wheels and tires (275/40/17 all around), I will need to drop the rear of my car. It sits about "stock" now.

I currently have "new" stock replacement (TRW?) coil springs in the rear (Hotchkis 1" drop in the front). I also plan on using the SC&C ball joints lowering the front another 3/4" or so...

Hotchkis lists a 2" drop as being "in development" and a 1" available (which will not be enough)... The 2-inch might not be enough... Global West doesn't offer lowered rear for early frames (and only offers 1-1/4" anyway)...

In the past, I have cut my springs with a cut-off wheel (but I raised it back up because it was too low), but I am worried about problems from not having the last coil tapered to seat well in the frame pocket... Is that a concern?

Can I just cut the rear springs (not "torch") without significant adverse effects?

Is it a bad idea to "torch" the last (top) coil or few inches to taper the spring (quenching or keeping the rest of the spring cool?)?

I have no idea how to go about "ordering" springs... Or even who to go to...

I saw Derek mentioning spring adjusters on the back of his car, but I assuming these are not something you just set in place (not looking for alot of fabrication work at this time)...

Thanks,
Tony

I cut the front of my springs. Cut 1.5 coils off, giving me a drop of about 2.5 or 3 inches. It looks pretty mean, but now I have a little too much rake and will be putting a 12 bolt in this month. At that time I plan on cutting the springs back there. Im not sure how much i will cut. I also cant remember if it has a spring perch or if i can just cut it anywhere I want. So i have the same question as you.
People say that it increases the spring rate, which it does. But I think its better now. It rode like a caddy before and now it is still soft, but much better. As for the quenching and torching, that would probably work. Since you are screwing up the heat treatment on only the part that sits flat, not one that is forced to spring. But this refers to the question before, Does it need to be tapered or can it be cut anywhere?

do yourself a favor and ditch your rear coil springs and spend a few extra bucks on the rear coil over adjustable shock kit from qa-1 you can adjust 4-6 inches in ride height plus your shocks are adjustable as well for ride comfort or handling.. every time i hear of someone cutting rear springs i hear storys of somebody having to retrive rear springs from hitting to big of a dip in the road and the rear springs fall out the rear adjustable coil over kit costs a lil more than the 2 inch rear drop springs but peace of mind and your classic is worth it.

every time i hear of someone cutting rear springs i hear storys of somebody having to retrive rear springs from hitting to big of a dip in the road and the rear springs fall out the rear adjustable coil over kitthat shouldn't be a problem in his '66 if he has a '66 rear axle. All 64-66 chevelles had a bolt-on retainer to keep the spring in place. 67-72 just had the cup which a spring could fall off of.

I just cut my stock rear coils in my '69. See my stance :) What I cut changed the spring from 110# to 150#. I have a '66 axle, so mine are bolted on too :)

bbpwr - Did you have to reinforce the upper shock mount to use the coil overs? Can you post pics?

Tony .....as far a cutting the rear you will have no problem , just use your cut off wheel ....... measure your stock springs now .......the longest rear spring made for the 66 was 16.2" and shortest 14.8" if you check Hotckiss and Eibach 1" lower are about 14" long.
I cut my stock rear coils to 13.5" at full susp extension they still not loose .....so if you have 15" rear springs then cut to 13.5 will give about 1.5" drop rear is 1 to1 ratio

Front: longest factory spring 18.5" shortest 16" Longest Moog replacement 19" ( i just measured a set I have but never used) Your concern with end fitting in the frame properly .dont worry about it, just cut it square with cut off wheel ....of course both front and rear to need to be aware of orientation before you cut just cut directly beleow the original end .the Moog replacement does not have a tapered end ........I have had a lot of springs in and out of my 66 and always cut with cut off wheel they alway seat fine the front is a 2-1 ratio so if you cut 1" then it will drop close to 2"

bbpwr ....."rear" QA1 coil overs for a 66??? .....are you sure you did not mean "front "......I am not aware QA1 makes a replacement bolt in coil over shock for the stock frame ..... if you have a set in a 66 I would like to know about them .... done properly nothing wrong with cutting coils .....

Use a pair of 11" super stock replacement springs from any of the circle track suppliers.

Tony .....as far a cutting the rear you will have no problem , just use your cut off wheel ....... Your concern with end fitting in the frame properly .dont worry about it, just cut it square with cut off wheel ....of course both front and rear to need to be aware of orientation before you cut just cut directly beleow the original end .the Moog replacement does not have a tapered end ........I have had a lot of springs in and out of my 66 and always cut with cut off wheel they alway seat fine...
done properly nothing wrong with cutting coils ....

bbpwr ....."rear" QA1 coil overs for a 66??? .....are you sure you did not mean "front "......I am not aware QA1 makes a replacement bolt in coil over shock for the stock frame ..... if you have a set in a 66 I would like to know about them .... . Me too... This might be a "future" upgrade (this stuff is getting expensive; Wheels, tires, brakes, suspension...)...


Use a pair of 11" super stock replacement springs from any of the circle track suppliers.
I will look into those...

I DO have a 66 rearend, with the bolt-in spring retainers... I have had several 66 Chevelles over the years that were slammed. Never had a problem, just wasn't sure if it was an acceptible way to lower the car, or just a cheap shortcut...

I also have a 66 SS hardtop I am restoring (well, plan to restore when I have the time and money. Rather than buy new "stock" replacement springs for that Chevelle, I might leave these alone, swap them to that project and buy some aftermarket springs and cut as needed... Since the car is basically a cruiser, I don't want to get too stiff...

Thanks everyone...

What is your front spring-rate?

What is your front spring-rate?
Not sure what the front spring rate is...

The front springs are Hotchkis 1" drop, and about 8 years old (I think they were offered in either BB or SB, in which case I got the BB)...