Trying to fire the new motor and get the bugs worked out. Dang key just clicks. I have a remote solenoid and a gear reduction starter.

My voltmeter reads around 13/14 volts when the key is in the on position, but they key just clicks.

What points do I need to check with my meter?

Battery, horn relay????

First try jumping the solinoid. If it won't crank by jumping, then you problem is at the solinoid or its connections. If it will always crank by jumping but not with the key, the problem is farther upstream. With everything hooked up, check the voltage at the solinoid "S" terminal while the key is in the crank position. Should be no less than 9 volts or so. If its a lot less check various points in the starter circuit. See below...

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To check the entire starter circuit, electricity flows from the battery to the junction block, to the 4 way splice, to the horn relay, to the bulkhead connector, to IGN switch, to neutral safety switch if automatic or clutch switch if stick shift, to the starter "S" terminal. Check all connections and switches along this path. You may have a bad connection or high resistance in a switch.

Greg, I tried jumping the solenoid, a no go, just a click.

On my solenoid, I have two large terminals and two small ones. One of the large ones runs to the battery and the other to the starter. I did not trace the small ones, but I believe one runs from the distributor and the other I'm not sure.

I understand the "S" terminal to be the one that leads to the starter? There is no voltage there.

I have almost 13 volts at the large one from the battery and one of the small ones that run from the distributor I believe.

I guess this means the solenoid is bad?

Greg, I tried jumping the solenoid, a no go, just a click.
On my solenoid, I have two large terminals and two small ones.
One of the small ones,( the "S" terminal) when power is applied the starter will crank, the other small one (the "R" terminal) sends power to the distributer only while cranking. It is needed for a points ignition, it bypasses the resister wiring giving the points full voltage only while cranking, or if you IGN wire is has no power while cranking ( some older ignition switches do this)
I guess this means the solenoid is bad?
First check all connections at the battery, solenoid and starter and the ground connection from the battery to the engine. If these are ok then the solenoid or starter is bad.

Might be trickey jumpering with a remote solenoid, you need to make sure you are sendind power to the starter's "S" terminal AND the big post also, not just jumpering the remote solenoid only.

Where is the wire on the "S" terminl coming from?

Maybe you just need a jumper from the BIG post on the starter to the "S" terminal on the starter.
:o

Dean

I have not traced the "R" terminal yet. I will look this afternoon.

I tried jumping the small post to small post. I have tried jumping big post to small post. Nothing happens but a click.

I will run through this again this afternoon.

Sorry Dean, i just read your post about what i just typed.

If he is running a remote solenoid, doesn't he have to have a jumper wire permanently mounted from the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid to the large cable on the starter?
Since his key is only activating the remote solenoid.

david

p.s. here's the wiring diagram...
http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ftecref4.html

David

He would need to have a jumper from the S terminal to the large positive terminal, not the R terminal, on the block mounted starter.

Wark,
thanks for pointing that out.
i edited my post.

david

Well, now I'm a little confused.

I did not install this, it was already there when I got the car.

I have the remote solenoid mounted on the passenger fenderwell. The small terminal nears the front of the car is the "S" terminal and the other one nearest the firewall is the "I" terminal. I thought it was called the "I" and not the "T."

The large terminal nearest the front of the car has the positive terminal from the battery connect here. The other side nearest the firewall runs to the starter.

I have two blue wires that are running to the remote solenoid. They are connected to a port at the back of the intake and the battery spot on the HEI unit. One is connected at the "I" terminal and the "S" terminal. I could find out which is which by taking the loom apart.

I also have a wire running from the "I" terminal to a fan relay.

I also just recently put in a bigger electric fan. Its a 16 inch Flex-a-lite that has 2500 CFM. I just plugged and played. Left the current relay and etc. from the previous fan. The new fans draw 17 amps.

OK, I have looked and traced the wire on the "S" terminal or the one nearest the front of the car. It runs up the fender and runs across the firewall to the fuse box. I have not checked the voltage there, but I have checked it at the neutral safety switch and there is no juice. Would this indicate my ign. switch might not be good?

Aaron,
let's go back to square one.
you stated you just put a new motor in.
did this wiring system work with the old motor?
what kind and year of car?
stick or automatic?

if it started before, what have you changed since installing the new motor?

david

I checked your profile.
is it the 67 chevelle you are working on?

david

Yes, it is a 67 chevelle with a 4 speed, converted from a auto. Wiring was already there. I just did a head and cam swap on the motor that is in it. I have fired the motor already on the new fire and broke it in. I have been fine tuning the guideplates I have some clearance issues with the pushrods.

I went to fire it up yesterday or the day before and it just clicked out of the blue.

After break in, I pulled the valve cover to adjust a valve and drop it a little and it bump the wire on the back of the alternator it sparked a little, but that should not matter should it?

was it a column shift?
maybe the neutral safety switch on the column.
try turning your column all the way to the left.

neutral safety switch does not have power until you turn the key to the "start" position.
you could put a jumper in place to bypass it.

Yes, the shift was on the column. It was a powerglide. Is the neutral safety swtich have purple wires, with one haveing a white stripe?

If so it is hanging down under the dash, which I have a button connected to it. In order to crank it, you must push the button in and turn the key.

Column is one that does not lock.

Also when the key is in on postion the voltmeter reads 13 volts. When I crank it, it goes to zero.

OK, did not know that it does not have power until you turn it to "start." I was check it in the "on" position.

those are the wires.
jumper them

OK, I will try that. Just to make sure I understand what a jumper is. Insert a connector with wire to jump the current from one connection to another.

correct.
i gotta go now
TTYL

david

Thanks, I have to head out also.

Sorry to confuse everyone which I'm sure I did :o

Evertime I typed "R" I really meant "S"
(I'll go back up and edit it now)
SORRY :o

Guess I was too busy thinking about a clicking sound coming from a key.

Dean

That is a good one. Now that I think about it, it was really dumb to type that I was getting a click from the key. Guess I was in a hurry or frustrated!

Thanks for everyones help. I will have alot of time today to work on it. I will check back with everyone today to see if there are any more post. I'll let you know what I find.

Well, I check the neutral safety switch again with the key in the start postion and it has 12.4 volts.

Well, I check the neutral safety switch again with the key in the start postion and it has 12.4 volts.

On both sides of the switch?
Needs power in and power out.

A quick way to check the NS switch is connect the two wires together.
JUST MAKE SURE THE TRANSMISSION IS NOT IN GEAR FIRST.

Yes, it does.

Electrical is not my strong suit.

I have 12 volts at the "S" terminal now. I have 12 bolts at the wire that runs to the starter and it still clicks.

Has to be the starter.

Well, I pulled the starter and stuck some battery cables to it . Postive cable on the large wire terminal and the negative cable to the caseing. Starter turned over for about 3 secs and died. Not alot of power. Surely its on its last leg.

Aaron,
since you suspect it is toast, open the starter up and see if you find any burnt contacts.
bushings may need some white lithium grease.
if it smells burnt, it probably is.
david

David

I'll open it up and see what the deal is. I picked up a new one at the local speed story and have it already in and running.

I picked up a new one at the local speed story and have it already in and running.
:D