Because of occasional oil starvation issues during sustained cornering and braking with my Milodon "claimer" pan (the best baffled stock-profiled oil pan I could find) I looked on and off for almost a year to find a good road-race style oil pan that would clear my Hooker Super Comps. After realizing nothing out there would work off the shelf, I decided to go the custom route-- but using a pan that was somewhat close to fitting as a starting point so only mimimal mods would have to be done.

So I took some measurements, placed the order, and waited 4 weeks with my fingers crossed hoping everything would clear and I wouldn't have to send it back for additional mods.

What I ended up with was a Canton #15-250 pan with a notch in the driver's side rear to clear the header tube that curves under the starter. I also had Canton add an additional 1/4" NPT bung in the DS pan kickout for an oil temp sender; with the starter and starter wiring being on the driver's side that location made the most since because I could run the temp sender wire up into my existing starter wiring bundle. My only regret is I should have added the bung to the top of the kickout rather than the side (less chance of a leak) but it will work just fine in the current location and I also should have had them add drain bungs to each side of the pan for possible turbo installation down the road (you never know...)

The pan has 5 trap doors, a one-way windage screen, windage tray, and crank scraper built in. All TIG welded, nice work. I'll get pics of the inside of the pan tomorrow, as I already put it back in the box. I'll be test fitting the engine/pan back into the car tomorrow, but it should have about 1/2" of clearance to the brakelines and brakeline brackets on the rear of the frame crossmember. If not I'll be modding the frame perches to slide the motor back enough for clearance.

The toughest part of the deal is the headers will have to be set in the chassis and the engine dropped in around them. I don't think there will be any way to get the headers and starter in or out with the engine in the car. I'd rather have the installation headaches than a spun bearing though...

http://home.comcast.net/~swedish_chef/stuff/ForumStuff/oilpan1.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~swedish_chef/stuff/ForumStuff/oilpan2.jpg
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http://home.comcast.net/~swedish_chef/stuff/ForumStuff/oilpan4.jpg

One step closer to being convinced my car is ready for an open-track day beating. Next up, oil cooler, fuel cooler, and intercooler...

Nice job :thumbsup:

Sweet Troy, I keep starring at my pan in the corner of the garage....I probably should put it on. I'm thinking about giving up the Super Comps for the serviceability factor of other accessories (I'll be damned if I'm going to pull an engine to get a starter changed out).

Troy,

Nice! Do you mind me asking how much this cost you? I'll be looking for your pictures of how it fits in the car - just might have to get one of these soon myself. Do you think you'll at least be able to loosen the headers enough to get a mini starter out once the engine's in?

Ryan

Troy,

Nice! Do you mind me asking how much this cost you? I'll be looking for your pictures of how it fits in the car - just might have to get one of these soon myself. Do you think you'll at least be able to loosen the headers enough to get a mini starter out once the engine's in?

Ryan

The pan was 350 plus another 150 for the additional notching, which required and moving the trapdoor and baffles in the area of the notch, plus 35 for the matching pickup.

As far as getting the starter in and out... I think there is a possibility that I'll be able to get my CSI ministarter in and out if I loosen the header and possibly raise the engine some. I'm going to try and test fit it back into the car tonight. Dennis is right, having to pull the engine to change the starter would really suck.

The only other good fitting set of 1.75" SBC primary headers I've seen in person for A-bodies is Stahl's at $1000+ a pair, and even they have a tube wrapped under the starter like the Super Comps. The wrap-under on the Stahl's isn't as excessive though. Lemon's makes a set that would work too but they require cutting the inner fender as their SBC headers have a couple tubes that run outside the frame rails like BBC headers. Again, expensive headers, over $1000 a pair bare.

What I would really like to see is a set of properly built 1.75" diameter primary (or stepped) Tri-Y headers for our cars but right now it looks like you'd have to go custom, and when I had a set of custom Tri-Y's from Burns Stainless priced out it came to just under $3000.

Troy

I would really like to see pics of the inside of the pan, as that is what really matters.............$3,000 DAMN!

Finished setting and tack welding the oil pump pickup tonight, it was right on the money at .300" off the bottom of the pan without any tweaking. This is using a Fel-Pro 1 piece pan gasket (.140" thick compressed, has steel bushings at each bolt location.)

test fit the engine/pan tonight and the pan clears the chassis with no issues, even with 307 motor perches/mounts which keep the engine about 3/16" lower than 350 perches/mounts. Did not try the headers/starter yet, just wanted to make sure the pan cleared the frame.

Here's pics of the inside. In the pic with the tray/screen, the bolts for the tray and screen aren't installed because I removed them to clean the pan and measure it for fill capacity. Canton advises to fill to the bottom of the windage tray and mark that on the dipstick as full. FYI, it took 5.25 quarts to fill the pan to the bottom of the windage tray.

http://home.comcast.net/~swedish_chef/stuff/ForumStuff/oilpan5.jpg
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Very nice Troy. I have used steel circle track pans from several different companies and I have always liked Canton the best. Looks like a good solution.

That pan looks great. I wish I would have went with a Canton pan rather that my current Milodon. I really like the built in baffles and windage tray.

If you dont mind me asking, what color paint is that on your engine block? Did you custom mix it or can I buy it at a store? Really like that color....looks clean.

If you dont mind me asking, what color paint is that on your engine block? Did you custom mix it or can I buy it at a store? Really like that color....looks clean.

It's cast iron gray rattle-can engine paint, got it from my friend's shop-- he paints all his blocks and iron heads this color unless the customer requests otherwise. It's been on there about 5 years now and has survived two engine freshenings during which time it was hit by starting fluid, brake cleaner, oil, gas, and also trips through a hot soap high pressure spray machine... and it still looks as good as the day I painted it! No peeling or any problems to speak of.

I can't recall the exact brand I used though... I'll swing by and check his stock either tonight or tomorrow as I don't have any more left at home.

Should have reports on the functionality of the pan in a week or so-- car should be back together this weekend but the weather probably isn't going to cooperate.

I can't recall the exact brand I used though... I'll swing by and check his stock either tonight or tomorrow as I don't have any more left at home.



If its not to much trouble, I would appreciate it if you could find out the brand.
Thanks