I should get my car back from the garage soon, and as soon as its back I need to prep it for paint. I need to remove 2 layers of paint. What is a good way to do this? I was planning to use Chemicals, if this is correct what brand should I use? Also, What kind of primer do I need to use to prep it, will spray cans be good enough?

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Justin Kramer
kman1@ptd.net
1968 Chevelle 300 Deluxe Sport Coupe 350ci (http://www.geocities.com/murderhorn666/chevelle3.html)
1978 Malibu Classic 305ci (http://laijara.clanpages.com/malibu.html)
Mustang Performance; an oxymoron?

I had good luck with the aircraft stripper. Before stripping get any trim off that you can and tape over seams, the tape helps speed cleanup from those areas. Rinse everything twice and dry throughly. Buzz car with sander to get remaining paint ecth with solution dry and prime immediately. I have always had good luck with the dp primers and I like the white primer as a sealer adhesive. Hope this helps if I missed anything someone wil catch it and let us both know.
Good Luck,

Would it be ok to use the spray can primer? like bondo brand? or am i just a moron for even suggesting such a thing? They are really the one that will work best for me, because I dont have a shop and will have to do it outside. Maaco is going to be doing the painting for me.

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Justin Kramer
kman1@ptd.net
1968 Chevelle 300 Deluxe Sport Coupe 350ci (http://www.geocities.com/murderhorn666/chevelle3.html)
1978 Malibu Classic 305ci (http://laijara.clanpages.com/malibu.html)
Mustang Performance; an oxymoron?

Moloko for the love of God please dont use spray bomb primer. If you are looking for a way to almost guarntee you that you will be repainting your car then go ahead and use that spray bomb.

You need a good self etching primer, I dont care for expoy over bare metal, some agree with me on that and others dont. A good etching primer would be Duponts variprime, PPG dpx171 or even dx1791, sherwin williams 980. The etch primer is a great corrosion fighter and has great adhesion to metal. But if you choose to go the expoy route PPG dplf brands of expoy is one of the best best expoy out there.

Uh... ok does that stuff come in a spray can? My autobody teacher said that some self etching primer can come in aero cans.

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Justin Kramer
kman1@ptd.net
1968 Chevelle 300 Deluxe Sport Coupe 350ci (http://www.geocities.com/murderhorn666/chevelle3.html)
1978 Malibu Classic 305ci (http://laijara.clanpages.com/malibu.html)
Mustang Performance; an oxymoron?

I think what sevt is trying to say is that anything spray can on a vehicle is just asking for problems when you trying to paint your car.They work well for other areas of a vehicle but not necessarily the outside finish.Spray cans are ok for smaller projects but for a car it is most definitely a no-no.At least I feel that it is a no-no.It is very difficult to get the coverage you need and the spray can primers usually do no react well with the automotive paints that is used to paint cars.If you spray bomb it and get Maaco to paint it,don't get too fussy when it starts to bubble or peel off.It most likely won't be their fault.If you have to borrow a paint gun to spray, someone will probably let you.I have a cheap one that I am using for primer,I think it was $39.I'm not flaming you or anything but spray can painting doesn't usually blend well with professional automotive paints.Good luck.

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John 67SS
ACES #2887
Team Chevelle Gold #127




[This message has been edited by 67ss (edited 03-03-2002).]

Are there any spray guns that done require an air compressor?

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Justin Kramer
kman1@ptd.net
1968 Chevelle 300 Deluxe Sport Coupe 350ci (http://www.geocities.com/murderhorn666/chevelle3.html)
1978 Malibu Classic 305ci (http://laijara.clanpages.com/malibu.html)
Mustang Performance; an oxymoron?

ok, i see that somebody put in your head that spray bomb is good to use. if you have an auto body teacher you must take the class and it must be in a shop, why cant you do it there? you also said maaco is going to paint the car for you, if that is the case and the place you want to paint your vehicle have them apply the etch and primer to the car. DO NOT use spray bomb on the outside you are just asking for trouble. somebody in your area can help you im sure.

If you decide to strip your car using chemical paint strippers, you should understand that you are starting one of the worst jobs known to mankind--dirty, dull, dangerous, and seemingly never-ending Most strippers contain methylene chloride which has been proven to cause cancer under some conditions. That doesn't mean you can't or shouldn't do it, but it ain't goin' to be fun... Read the instructions and warnings carefully

My $0.02

Ok, i guess I'll call Maaco and ask them how much it will be to do the car as is. I wanted to do it myself because they would give me a deal on the paint job then, it would only be 800. With the prep it will be more. I am still planning on removing all the chrome and such to make it cheaper.

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Justin Kramer
kman1@ptd.net
1968 Chevelle 300 Deluxe Sport Coupe 350ci (http://www.geocities.com/murderhorn666/chevelle3.html)
1978 Malibu Classic 305ci (http://laijara.clanpages.com/malibu.html)
Mustang Performance; an oxymoron?

If you are in HS and are in a Body work class, can't you strip and prime there after school? If that's the case, strip your car with a D/A sander. It's not a stinky toxic mess to clean up, and it goes fairly quick with quality materials.

Another alternative would be Citristrip. I've only stripped small areas with this stuff, but it works nicely. IT doesn't stink up the neighborhood, it smells like oranges (REALLY- it does- it actually smells good if you can believe it!). IT is kind of expensive, though- but worth it in the amount of brain cells that you can keep since it doesn't smell like a toxic waste dump. It is a mess to clean up, like any stripper. From my experience, it's very good at what it does.

Do it the right way the first time, that way there is no second time for a long time.

No, out school doesnt have shop classes. I went to a night school last fall. My major motivation for the "cheapo" job is because the car has to be completely done by April 29th. Fun eh? still have to remove rust, paint it, finish the interior, and other stuff. I'll just have maaco do the prep I guess, but if i do that then I wont be able to put new bumpers on it http://www.chevelles.com/forum/frown.gif

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Justin Kramer
kman1@ptd.net
1968 Chevelle 300 Deluxe Sport Coupe 350ci (http://www.geocities.com/murderhorn666/chevelle3.html)
1978 Malibu Classic 305ci (http://laijara.clanpages.com/malibu.html)
Mustang Performance; an oxymoron?

So do you want to know how much harder it will be to redo or how much more? All anyone is trying to say is take time on this. The first car I ever redid was going to take me two weeks. Three months later I rolled out a car that was so stright smooth and sweet it made guys that spent 2000.00 wish they could have a paint job that nice. Take the time and it will be 100 times better and cheaper than MACCO. Try helping out at a small body shop to offset the price. Most shops need guys to clean the cars, shop, office, and bathrooms. Just running for beverage is worth something to alot of shops. But you work and learn.

Definently no time though, PA requires a project to be completed by graduation. If you dont do the project to satisfactory terms, you fail high school. My Chevelle is my project, and graduation is nearing. They want the projects to be done by May.

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Justin Kramer
kman1@ptd.net
1968 Chevelle 300 Deluxe Sport Coupe 350ci (http://www.geocities.com/murderhorn666/chevelle3.html)
1978 Malibu Classic 305ci (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/mal6.jpg)
Mustang Performance; an oxymoron?

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Moloko:
Definently no time though, PA requires a project to be completed by graduation. If you dont do the project to satisfactory terms, you fail high school. My Chevelle is my project, and graduation is nearing. They want the projects to be done by May.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

HUH?!

I weep for our country when the criteria for whether or not you graduate from High School is how pretty your car is rather than demonstrated profiency in traditional academics. This touchy feely garbage does nothing for preparing young people for the real world. Then parents wonder why young people from other countries are much more advanced academically than their American counterparts !

Not a flame Moloko, good luck restoring and painting your Chevelle. You really would be better off doing it nicely the 1st time, though. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

Well I just want a driver, nothing to show. I've seen lesser-quality maaco paint jobs than the one im getting, and i was really impressed with how they turned out. My friend didnt even get clear coat on his and it looked great.
You dont have to choose a car for the high school project, it can be almost anything. It can be community service, writing a computer program, or writing a paper. They will accept almost anything that you put a significant amount of time into. You also have to write a paper about your project and give a 30 minute presentation on it infront of a panel of teachers who determine if you did significant work. I know the paint job IS the deciding factor when it will come to this. My school is a very rich school, and the populations entire view on something is very based on how it looks. Before my friend got his nova painted it was considered a pos (it had a perfect body in primer) after getting it painted everyone thought it was a different car. This paint job is the last step on my car after a little bit of finishing body work (dent ding removal, few small rust spots).

Edit- other reason for a nice paint job is it WILL get messed up around here.

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Justin Kramer
kman1@ptd.net
1968 Chevelle 300 Deluxe Sport Coupe 350ci (http://www.geocities.com/murderhorn666/chevelle3.html)
1978 Malibu Classic 305ci (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/mal6.jpg)
Mustang Performance; an oxymoron?

[This message has been edited by Moloko (edited 03-05-2002).]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Moloko:
clear coat on his and it looked great. Well I just want a driver, nothing to show. I've seen lesser-quality maaco paint jobs than the one im getting, and i was really impressed with how they turned out. My friend didnt even get
You dont have to choose a car for the high school project, it can be almost anything. It can be community service, writing a computer program, or writing a paper. They will accept almost anything that you put a significant amount of time into. You also have to write a paper about your project and give a 30 minute presentation on it infront of a panel of teachers who determine if you did significant work. I know the paint job IS the deciding factor when it will come to this. My school is a very rich school, and the populations entire view on something is very based on how it looks. Before my friend got his nova painted it was considered a pos (it had a perfect body in primer) after getting it painted everyone thought it was a different car. This paint job is the last step on my car after a little bit of finishing body work (dent ding removal, few small rust spots).

Edit- other reason for a nice paint job is it WILL get messed up around here.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I'm glad there are some academics involved with your project! Couldn't you explain to them about how quality counts in everything you do in life, and instead of instant gratification, you want to do it right, and appreciate the end result for many years to come?

If you do go the MAACO route here is my advice... DO THE PREP WORK YOURSELF! MAACO can do an alright job, BUT THAT IS ONLY TRUE IF THE PREP WORK IS THERE! Actually, thats true for any job- BUT at MAACO the more cars they paint in a day, the more money they make. That put prep work on the low end of the totem pole, even if you pay for it. You'll get a decent paint job IF you prep well and do it yourself.

Good luck on your project, I'm sure you'll graduate just fine- I looked at your pics, and it's pretty clear you have some work in to your Chevelle.

It does not matter who paints the car, all that matters is who preps it. If you do start on the car this weekend buy a cheap electric sprayer "Wagner" get the correct tip for enamel #4 I think. Get the dupont primer and primer surfacers tape ect. Use the sprayer to spray the primer and surfacer. If you need to get the car done ASAP then strip prime sand and have MACO do what you need. I have nothing against MACO, they just don't have a good rep on the prep of cars. I wouldn't think anything of getting them to paint as long as I supplied the materials. Yes you can do it, but we all would like to see a sweet ride when done. that is why we want you to take time and do it right. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

You could strip the car and then put a light coat of cheap primer on it till you get it to Maaco. It will wipe off with a gun cleaning thinner and/or a quick pass with a DA sander. A few layers of good paint will take hours to strip so you'd still save money. Just make sure they take off all that cheap paint.

Don't you have a buddy with a portable air compressor or a place you could paint?? If so, try to borrow it and buy a $25 no-name gun to do the painting.

Peter

Here's some stripper that I've had bookmarked for a while:
http://www.zerorust.com/removallmainpage.html http://www.zerorust.com/stripperpage.html

It doesn't contain contain methylene chloride so it may or may not be as aggressive as some of the others, but to me it would be well worth the extra time (if any) involved.

Pete

how much are they charging you??i asked maaco how much they would charge me awhile back and they said 3000$..yes 3000$..my 68 needed no body work except a little rust in the rear qtrs.dont go with them!!!!!!!!dont go with earl scheib either. i went with earl scheib 900$and they gave me a shotty job.i took it up there chain of management and now im getting a totally new paint job from some guy whos coming up to wash from oregon whos like a master tech because they &^$#%** my crap up..dont bother

Ok, I've decided that primer just should be good enough for them. Im bringing the car back to a fellow TC member who did the other body work for me (70isfine? sorry, for the life of my I cant remember his username, but his name is Chris). And im just going to keep it in primer until I get money for a real paint job. This way I wont have to worry about someone in school messing the car up either.

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Justin Kramer
kman1@ptd.net
1968 Chevelle 300 Deluxe Sport Coupe 350ci (http://www.geocities.com/murderhorn666/chevelle3.html)
1978 Malibu Classic 305ci (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/mal6.jpg)
Mustang Performance; an oxymoron?