Hi, I live in Calif. and they no longer sell lacquer-based primer which is what I've always used. I started using PCL "PolyPrimer" which you mix with a hardener.

Can I recoat this primer like the old stuff? or is it a one shot deal?

If I can recoat, what is the finest grit sandpaper I can use so the recoat will stick?

Thanks for the advice, Ron

Sure you can recoat it. You will want to sand it first though. Poly primer is VERY high filling, you should be using it for surfacing (blocking) with 120 or 180 and then recoat. Sand that with 180, guide coat then 220, guide coat and then 400 or 500 and paint it.

But lets get back to your "California dreaming". Polyester primer isn't the only primer you can use! You can use Urethane, Epoxy, ISO free 2K, it is wide open. PLUS, you are not correct, there are legal Lacquer primer as well. I think PCL makes it. It is a "RTS" (Ready to spray, no reducing) Lacquer primer. I know it is available thru NAPA autoparts stores. I believe the number is 15203. To order they need to enter "GAL15203" in the "MS" line code. If you are working with a none paint mixing store you may need to tell them this. Besides, if they are a none paint store (parts only) you can have them order the regular old Lacquer primer #15200 (gray) or #15201 (red) along with lacquer thinner 15240 (Again, they have to put the "GAL" in front of the number to order it in from the DC, they will understand this language if you spell it out for them).

The system may still be "stupid" and not know if you are in a VOC regulated area. I use to have NAPA stores order "illegal" products all the time. They just ordered it in and the customer picked it up, no one was the wiser. If you are using this at home as a hobbiest, there is NO ONE who is going to be giving you any trouble.

By the way, NAPA has that same PCL primer, number 15205 in the MS line.

That all aside, you really should move on up to a 2K primer like a urethane for filling or epoxy for bare metal.

Thanks Brian!!

I will try the NAPA 15205. That way my drive for paint will be cut down about an hour. When I asked NAPA about the lacquer primer, they told me there is "NO WAY" they can get it. My high priced paint store told me the same thing. (This was the old half and half primer).

I've used the RTS primer, it's O.K. but it don't fill very good.

Thats O.K. since I can recoat the poly, I'd rather use that.

On to the blocking, Thanks Again, Ron

The urethane 15221 is a pretty nice "value line" product. But if you want some real nice urethane try 5102. Where about in California are you? Is there a local VOC rule or are you under "National Rule"? Find out the VOC limit for the primer surfacer and I may be able to help you choose a primer.

I've used the PCL RTS lacquer primer and it's really REALLY thin. Won't cover scratches or anything worth a darn, but it's cheap. I have a full gallon sitting in my garage that will go unused, since Eric and Brian convinced me to go with a 2K primer and do things "right"...

Ron, if you're anywhere near Sacramento, I'll make you a terrific deal on the RTS stuff! :D

I live about 30 min north of the L.A. county line in Kern county. About an hour west of Bakersfield. Out here in the desert we go by drive time not so much as to miles. Never could figure out why......

Anyway, I think I'll go with the PolyPrimer, I'll just take alittle time to get used to. As to the VOC limits out here, I'll have to ask my boss at the body shop. (long story) I know,I know, "How could he work at a body shop and not about primers" Lets just say I've out of the loop for awhile. About 10 years out!

Curt, Thanks for the offer but you can keep that RTS stuff!! :D

Thanks again, Ron

I've used the PCL RTS lacquer primer and it's really REALLY thin. Won't cover scratches or anything worth a darn, but it's cheap. I have a full gallon sitting in my garage that will go unused, That laquer primer may work good used as a guide coat. I keep some dark brown laquer primer in the shop just for this purpose. It sure beats buying the aresol stuff or the dry powder type IMO. You'll find a use for it eventually.

Bob, do yourself a favor, spurge, and buy a 3m Dry guide coat. You will never go back, I guarantee it. It may seem expensive but it lasts forever. I have had the same one for over a year.

Bob, do yourself a favor, spurge, and buy a 3m Dry guide coat. You will never go back, I guarantee it. It may seem expensive but it lasts forever. I have had the same one for over a year. I've used the dry guide coat numerous times but I just like the old fashioned way better, both methods work OK though. Also the black dry guide coat only works on light colored primers and sometimes I use a dark colored primer that requires a light colored guide coat- in this situation the dry guide coat doesn't work. The last production shop I worked in had the dry stuff setting in the cabinet for many years and nobody used it, just preferrence i guess.

I love it with plastic filler. I block with 120 then guide coat and block with 180. You can see EVERY SINGLE scratch left. That is what I like about it so much, it is so fine it gets into EVERYTHING.