I got the frame pulled from dads car today. We are thinkng of using POR-15 for the frame, firewall, inner fenders and radiator support. Does the POR-15 come in a correct color, or at least close? What should I be aware of if we use this? Do I need to primer the parts before spraying them? What's the normal dry time if done in a garage?

I realize alot of these are basic questions but I have never sprayed before. I bought 2 HVLP guns today. Someone told me to plan on throwing my guns away after using POR-15 because they will never come clean.

Any advice for a first timer would be GREATLY appreciated.

IMO POR 15 is great if used as intended, to stop rust and provide a firm base for a topcoat. If I remember correctly they recommend it be used only on rust not clean metal unless you prep first. For my frame, since I was doing a total rebuild, I had everything sand blasted down to clean metal, fixed any damaged area and sprayed on 777 Rustoleum, its a nice Stin Black that looks good, is easily thinned as recommended using acetone and cleans up easily. IMO people lean heavily on POR 15 as a cure all for everything, Iuse it where I cant get in to places to cut out rust or sand/wire wheel it clean. I pour it into door bottoms, behind area under trunk floor/quarters and paint underside of roof if surface rusty with it. Just my opinion......

Others can go further with technical details, but if you're spraying POR in a garage, consider rolling it or brushing it. Once dry, brush marks are gone and you won't be inhaling the fumes which are far worse than ordinary paint.
A regular respirator isn't effective the way a fresh-air system is. POR is bad news to inhale!

If you're painting bare metal, it's a great system, but like Brian said, it's not a cure-all. Close, but not quite... Make sure you've removed scale and dirt, but POR actually holds better if the surface is rusty - it gives more "tooth" to adhere to. Once on, it's a permanent fixture!

Since I am sandblasting everything maybe I should consider using something else. Any recomendations on what to use for a durable factory finish? I was thinking the POR-15 since that is all you hear about.

I sandblasted and applied a good epoxy primer and then topic coated with a satin black paint (PPG). Looks perfect, very durable, and easy to touch up if needed during reassembly. I personally don't like POR-15 and I don't think it looks factory at all.

Thanks for the advice. I want something that will look nice when done. After doing all the sandblasting nothing will make me madder then having the paint look bad.

Well, it depends on what you consider "nice" I suppose...

Personally, I like the look of a gloss/semi-gloss frame and underside, but it's not a stock look. If you want durability, POR is it, but again, it's more of a "custom" look, but it does look sharp!

You can put it on the sandblasted surface with no problem. They make a metal etch as well, but the main thing to do is stay away from putting it over another paint or on to smooth metal. A little roughness is a good thing for POR and a sandblaster should do nicely for it.

There's been several folks on this sight that have posted photos of their frames after POR. Use the "Search" function and take a look...

notstock71,
I don't have an opinion on this either way as I'm having my frame gavanized, then top coating it just to color-ize it, as in this process:
frame refurb (http://home.comcast.net/~petelohr/einstyn1/einstyn-06.htm)

However, I do know the owner of POR-15 and they will help you determine if it's appropriate for your application and can tell what prep is needed for your circumstnace what to expect for results. Here's their toll free # (800) 457-6715

I agree, it would be a shame to do all that work and be dissapointed with the results of whatever you use.

On my restoration link are a few snapshots of POR-15 on the frame.
I really like the results. I've sprayed and brushed before. POR-15 is easier to brush on and looks great after it dries, make sure you use a foam brush or a good hair brush that won't leave hairs in you paint. I prefer to spray the POR-15 chassis black top coat because it will leave brush marks.

Prep is everything, as in the name P-paint-O-over-R-rust!! Ive seen this stuff peel away like a bannana skin,,, surface NO-GREASE or loose particles , they have a good tech info give them a call
Ps stuff is awesome!! can be top coated with your own selection---my$.02

The way to go is POWDER COATING! I know the owner of a local outfit & it works great. I have been doing all the suspension parts on my 68 in semi-gloss black & it looks great. I thought about this alot as I was a painter also. If painting you first have to sandblast, then prime and paint. W/ powdering they have to blast it anyway before coating so you are getting two for one. I cannot even buy paint & materials for what it costs to powder something. Another nice bonus is you drop parts off & come back when done. I am going to do my frame and anything else I can when I pull apart for frame off. It's a great way to go in my opinion. JOHN

ac72rat is right on the mark in reference to prep work if you're going to use POR-15. I learned the hard way in the beginning. If you follow the directions, it works great.

As long as you clean the parts well, no grease and such, POR will stick great to sandblasted bits. Blasting leaves a great tooth to stick to, no problem.