I am about ready to take the block to the machine shop to be bored .030 and had a few questions. The owner of the shop, who comes highly recommended locally, suggested having it "torque plate honed". From another thread I read, this sounds like a good idea. Could someone confirm that and explain what it involves?

Also, he said balancing would be very good, especially for higher rpms. I am assuming (careful there) mine does not fall into this category being a street application, but was curious what rpms would be considered high.

If any of you have read any of my other posts you know my knowledge is limited, but I'm reading more and trying to gain more knowledge to help with this rebuild. Thanks in advance.

I am about ready to take the block to the machine shop to be bored .030 and had a few questions. The owner of the shop, who comes highly recommended locally, suggested having it "torque plate honed". From another thread I read, this sounds like a good idea. Could someone confirm that and explain what it involves?

Also, he said balancing would be very good, especially for higher rpms. I am assuming (careful there) mine does not fall into this category being a street application, but was curious what rpms would be considered high.

If any of you have read any of my other posts you know my knowledge is limited, but I'm reading more and trying to gain more knowledge to help with this rebuild. Thanks in advance.When an engine is bored and honed with a torque plate this means they bore and hone off the crankshaft centerline rather than the existing bore.

They put a heavy plate on the block,and bolt it on like a head, that way if there is any distoration from the head bolts, it will be noticed then, not after you bolt on the heads, money well spent. I also would pay for the balancing, about $150-200, also money well spent,I think?

Somewhere there is a pic. posted that show's how much a block distorts when honed w/o a plate and then with one!! Very dramatic even tho there have been literally millions of engines built w/o using a plate..

I think it is like up to .003" distortion around the headbolt holes and down the length of the headbolt bosses...

pdq67

Somewhere there is a pic. posted that show's how much a block distorts when honed w/o a plate and then with one!! Very dramatic even tho there have been literally millions of engines built w/o using a plate..

I think it is like up to .003" distortion around the headbolt holes and down the length of the headbolt bosses...

pdq67You should see what it does on a junk 5.0 Ford block.Just bolting on the water pump will cause .003 to .005 easy out of round.Another one of Ford's better ideas.L.O.L.

Doing both are good ideas. Not sure how much extra the torque plate honing is , but if the money determines either or I would go with the balancing on a mainly street engine.

When an engine is bored and honed with a torque plate this means they bore and hone off the crankshaft centerline rather than the existing bore.
=
Boring & honing with a torque plate has nothing what so ever to do with weather or not the block was bored off the crank centerline.
A torque plate simulates the head being installed on the block.
It should be installed with the same type of gasket as is used in assembly.

I do not hone an engine without a torque plate.
I also do not build engines without balancing them.
I would highly recommend both. :)

Here are a few pics to explain::

Here is a Torque plate attached for honing:
http://wsm.ezsitedesigner.com/share/scrapbook/19/190264/Brodix_Block_003.jpg

& another

http://wsm.ezsitedesigner.com/share/scrapbook/19/190264/Rowdy_s_540_CK10_003.jpg

& Here is a block set up off the mains to bore & deck. It is being Probed for blueprint bore location in this picture,,

http://wsm.ezsitedesigner.com/share/scrapbook/19/190264/Rowdy_s_540_V30_003.jpg

& decked in this picture,,

http://wsm.ezsitedesigner.com/share/scrapbook/19/190264/Rowdy_s_540_V30_008.jpg

Notice the bar going through the mains.This is set up off the main centerline for boring & decking among other operations if necessary

I went with roller lifters and rockers when I had my 402 rebuilt. Haven't turned the key on it yet, but I'm told the roller setup reduces the chances of troubles.

They used the torque plate, I had it line bored, decked and balanced. Also it was sonic checked to ensure that the cylinder wall integrity was good enough for a .30 over bore of the 402.

Best to do it all at once rather than skimp and pay to have it pulled and redone or replaced.

Good Luck!

Don

'70 Fanatic!

Thanks for all the info guys, good stuff!!! :thumbsup: