I know I dont have many details but how much is this el camino worth ?


http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y142/jfboy/elcam2.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y142/jfboy/elcam1.jpg

1966 Chevrolet El Camino: Runs very strong 3 speed auto on the column, has rust on the frame and the body but the car looks great. White with Red interior

Yep, too much. Tell me where it is and set the seller straight. You failed to mention how much "too much" is.

Maybe 8-10,000 depending on how bad the rust is on the frame.

Could you please try to give us less information.

Thomas

With rust in the body and frame and no details of drivetrain or interior it would be hard to determine a value. Location also plays a big part in pricing. You failed to mention how much you were considering paying for it.

$3000-$4000 tops.

had a serious offer on my 65 el camino, but its restored,, offer was $13,500 about what I have in it pics of her are on the gallery

Guy wants $2500


Sorry I dont know more. I havent see it yet so I dont know more about it than you guyz.

I'm in Georgia

A good running engine and working transmission can be worth the asking price. Best thing to do is go look at the car and determine if the work required to make you happy with it plus the initial cost is worth it to you. Pay close attention to how bad the frame is. The only one that will be correct is an El Camino frame from 64-67 if it needs replaced.

$2500 seems fair to me. But check to see how bad the frame is rusted. Also, if he is aking 25, maybe offer him 2,000.
Mike

$2500 seems DIRT cheep to me. I've seen 66 Elkys that were basket cases go for more than that. This puppy is all there and running...Go get that thing and take it home quick!
Brian

What areas of the frame that are more prone to rust ?

Common problem I should look at ?

I always love it when a question is asked about value, with concerns over paying too much - then it turns out the money is peanuts.

Virtually 100% of the 40 year old cars out there have rust somewhere. You just need to get over "surface rust" and look for "rot". Another truth is that even a nice 40 year old car will need more maintenance and repair work than a much newer car. You can also be guaranteed to find more issues the deeper you dig into an older car.

None of that means that you won't have a hell of a good time fixing that car up and cruising it around.

Go for it.

Thomas

Ok thanks guyz !


I will got take a look at it tomorrow.

Some people describe rust on the frame and some slight surface rust as rusty. Then there are the rusted frames that deserve to be called as such. The kind that have scaley, flaking rust and pitts everywhere.

What's the area of the body and the frame that is the most likely to be extensively corroded ?





On elast thing ... I know nothing about chevy's What's a good way to differentiate a 350 from a 305 ?

Think like water and those are the areas prone to rust. Really any metal part of the car can rust, but it is those areas that can trap pooled water that are the worst. Like the bottom of the rear window under the trim, under the windshield bottom, inside the cowl area, the rocker panels, etc. The frame mostly gets surface rust unless it has been left in a field for dead. Most of the rust you are likely to encounter is no big deal, at $2,500 buy-in any rust issues are really no big deal. It will have rust, more or less like any 40 year old car, but for a strong running car at that price any rust wouldn't faze me.

Why are you worried about the engine being a 305 or a 350 (or any other displacement for that matter)? The pics look good enough and you said it was a strong running engine - don't make your standards too high or you will talk yourself out of a decent cruiser. On the front passenger side of the engine block there is a stamping pad that will have a sequence of numbers and letters, from that we can only tell what the BLOCK was originally from - but in no way does that guarantee anything about the rest of the engine components.

If you are still chicken about this car after your visit, then post some more pics and give a better description. To me it is a no brainer, the $2,500 is a low buy in and you may even get the purchase price a little lower - bring cash!

Thomas

Thank you for all this usefull info.


I have never bought anything older than a 1992 :D

I have owned plenty of cars but never an old school carburated one. that's why I'm in chicken mode right now.

Ok I just called the guy and set up an appointement to take a look at it.

He says it's ot a 283 in it.


He told me that the body was redone by a previous owner and If you knock on the lower end of the body, you can tell that it's bondo underneat the paint.

He was kinda vague about the frame, said he didn't if I could get away with sandblasting it and repainting it...

Might need to be replaced..... ???? :confused: :(


Well see


Ish... I will take some pictures for you guyz tomorrow.

On a 66 Elky, you'll probably find floor rust/rot behind the seat. Pull the carpet up and it'll be there...unless it spent its life in a garage. Not that big a deal, as this is replaceable with reproduction floor pieces. However, it might give you some wiggle room on his price.
Having said that, $2500 for a rolling/running 66 Elky with most of the original equipment is VERY cheap! When you start researching what they normally go for, you'll begin to see the picture.

I have seen them for $6k to $14k so I know it's cheap but at the same time I dont want to buy somthing that isnt wort buying.

Even with rust you think $2500 is a good deal ? I will try to get a local shop to put it on a lift for me.

If I have to replcae the frame, it will climb up real fast...




How much is a 283 worth btw ? boat anchor ?

I have seen them for $6k to $14k so I know it's cheap but at the same time I dont want to buy somthing that isnt wort buying.

Even with rust you think $2500 is a good deal ? I will try to get a local shop to put it on a lift for me.

If I have to replcae the frame, it will climb up real fast...


Just a question here... You state that you are a little scared becuase you've never dealt with an older rig before... and then later you are talking about sandblasting the frame or possible replacement....

What exactly are your plans for the car? Fun cruiser and modify it a little to make it truly yours, or is this something you want to strip apart and restore, or what?

If you are looking for something to restore and be perfect- you would be much better off buying a more expensive car that doesn't have any rust to start with.

As others have stated, one persons idea of rust can be different than someone elses. Most of the time frame rust is nothing more than surface rust and very solid- but i have seen and owned cars where there the frame was disentegrating with lacy swiss cheese style rust in it.

If the owner has told you the quarters are full of bondo, and has stated that the frame has rust- I would still want to go look at the car (especially for that price!) but just be aware that it is there.

If you just want something fun to bomb around in and learn to wrench on- then don't worry about it. As others have said, there are pretty much NO classic cars on the road that don't have some kind of rust or bondo on them... and for that price, you really can't go wrong with a running and driving car- UNLESS you're plans are to restore it...

in That case you really need to do some research on what to look for rust & bondo wise when looking at these cars. Who knows, it really might not be that bad on this car- but then again, it could be.

If it really is rusty- Its a lot cheaper in the long run to start with a more expensive solid car to restore than to start with a rust bucket.

So take a close look at what your intentions are for the car, and go from there. You might post in the normal bench racing forum and see if you can find a Local TC member to go check out the car with you- someone who knows where to look for rust, and how to tell how bad it is.

Just my $.02

If I buy the car, i plan to keep it for a long time. I have no plans to resote it right now.

What I would like to do is put a better motor in it and stick a mnual tranny in it.

I want to keep pretty much everything else as is for now.

In the long haul if I come fond of the car, I'd like to one day restopre it all.


Iknow it aint cheap.

my uncle had a 4 door dart swinger and his frame up restore job amounted to a littl over $10k and he did not even touch the motor and tranny diff etc...

I had no idea that people were actually restoring 4 door Darts :)

The 283 may not be a 350 - but if it really does pull strongly then you know for sure that you have a good one. 283's are bitchin engines, you just need to wind them further to make power - lot's of them were built up into rocking 7,500 rpm buzz bombs.

A built 283 would love a manual transmission, get a 5 speed with overdrive while you're at it.

I say you should buy this car with no special expectations about how it will all turn out. Of course you should still try your hand at bargaining for a lower price. Use this car as a springboard to learning about pre '92 cars. If you have the garage space, some larger projects like hanging new quarter panels can be done by the do it yourselfer.

I think the guy knows it not anything special. I was hoping for a 350 at least :D

If I like the car, I will try to get him to lower the price some.


I'm pretty good with cars. I used to own a lightning and even swapped the hads myslef. These old cars look real easy to work on but I'm sure i will learn a lot.

that right rear 1/4 panel looks VERY VERY poorly fixed on the lower sections

I had no idea that people were actually restoring 4 door Darts :)




you should see his. it's extremely sweet ! He did it right. I would give him 6-7k in a heartbeat... but I think he has about 11-12k in it. When he bought it I thought he was a lil craze but after it was all dove I fell in love with it.

that right rear 1/4 panel looks VERY VERY poorly fixed on the lower sections


So those dimples are not normal... :confused: ishhh....


Well when I see it I will make my decision.

How much is a 283 worth btw ? boat anchor ?

283 is a kick a$$ little engine :) (little brother to a 327)
ok maybe a 350 would be more powerful, but the 283 is vintage, and more period correct for the car. Plus they seem to last forever !

I would keep it, if I were you. Just add a 4 speed and it'll be cool :thumbsup: (assuming it has a power glide now)

Just saw that you said it had a 3spd auto. In that case I would stay with that.

the body does look pretty wavy But it is hard to say based on 2" pictures that were taken from 30 feet away :clonk:

You do know people often paint WHITE to help cover up poor body work.

yeah white hides the defect better.