i noticed that my trunk has rust all ove the pass. side. but im new to all this surface rust, and really bad rust thing.

im only 17 and there really isnt anyone to tell me how to destiguish the difference between surface rust and 'cancer'

does the magnet trick only work on bondo or does it not attach to rust either??

thanks, Enrique

the magnets do stick but there's so much rust im beggining to worry. how to i know how bad it really is?

should i use a die grinder with a wire wheel brush to brush of the rust? if so what do i look for after that?

if i do have to replace the trunk floors, can my dad use his ARC welder, i know MIG is ideal but we dont have one.

[This message has been edited by Slowpoke70 (edited 01-27-2003).]

Can you kinda rub or sand the rust off? Is it creating bubbles or holes? If it is kinda dusty rust, or comes off with a light sand and hasn't created bubbles or holes it is surface rust, otherwise your looking at cancer. Surface rust has a number of treatments, ranging from chemical methods to just sanding, etching and painting. If you could post some pics, or give us a description of what the rust is like we will hopefully be able to point you in the right direction. Welcome to Team Chevelle, the best site on the net!!

Brandon

Take a screwdriver and poke around a little. If the blade goes through you need to replace the metal. Odds are the seams will be the first to go. If everything seems solid you have a chance and could get by without the cutting and welding.
I would recommend POR-15. Their kits come with a cleaner and a phosphate that will clean and prep the metal. You need only remove the loose rust. This stuff bonds to the surface and hardens with exposure to moisture.
You could pull the drain plugs and rinse both chemicals out with a hose. After it is dry brush in a coating or two of the POR-15. You can do a search on the web for the company that distributes the stuff. They also have information that will guide you through the process. POR-15 is the best.
I also have a trick for top coating this product. If you want… drop me an email and I fill you in.
You also need to find out where the water is coming from and stop it. Odds are it’s the metal around the rear window (pull the trim and take a look) or it the rubber seal around the trunk.
Good luck.

Dan Solomon
70 Chevelle
dansolomon@msn.com

i think its just surface rust, but i dont know because some of it looked like bubbles but it had the texture of the splatter paint that was originally on it. most if came of when i scraped it with the putty knife you use on walls inside your house. i'll try the screw driver...... it didnt go through.

whats scaring me is the quartes have tiny bubbles on the inside. i wish i had the skills to fix this. i hope it doesnt get to expensive.

the trunk is about the only part in the whole car that has good weather stripping so im guessing the window channel. wow this is starting to look like a lot of $$ is gonna be needed.

do any of you know if OPG stocks POR-15 in their wharehouse because i live close enough to pick it up.

thanks a lot.

i had the same problem..i'm too 17...rinsed the car off one day..poped the trunk..and low and behold a huge puddle...the next day i took the vinyl top off...and there was a HUGE hole near the corner of the window...i too know NOTHING about body repair...luckly i have a CLOSE freind who knows just about everything....good luck slow..

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72 Ls6 Chevelle project
87 K-20 Lifted 4inches Old school Slotted mags

Pappy said son you gonna drive me to drinkin if you dont stop drivin that hotrod lincoln

17 HUH? Lincolns..................HUH?,on a chevelle page?

Youlle be O.K.-just keep hangin around with some of these guys

1969 Chevelle SS Convertible (all #'s 4 SPD)
67 Shortbox C-10 KILLER 350
2000 Monte Carlo SS Pace Car(Sad but true poor ol 6 cyl.)

lincolns??

ive been reading these boards for a few months and id be more than willing to try and do body work if i had the tools or funds but i dont. this is getting frustrating.

hahaha i just like the song..i knew ii'd catch heat for that one

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72 Ls6 Chevelle project
87 K-20 Lifted 4inches Old school Slotted mags

Pappy said son you gonna drive me to drinkin if you dont stop drivin that hotrod lincoln

Slopoke,

It will be fine and well worth it. When I was 16, I was "The Man" with my 67 Mailbu. If I remember correctly the kit I bought came with a quart of the POR-15 and a gallon of the Metal Ready and Marine Clean and cost me around $35.00. The one web site that I hit this morning shows a starter kit that has a 4-ounce can of POR-15 and all the goodies for $15.00. That might be enough to do the job you have in front of you. My quart lasted me through the frame and the floor pans. I ended up using 2 quarts for my project but had a lot of rust to contend with.
http://www.easycarts.net/ecarts/PermanentRestorationProducts/POR15.html

You wont need any expensive tools... A wire brush, rubber gloves and a brush that you can throw away when you are done for the day.

Just brush off the loose rust. You don’t have to remove it! The Marine Clean will loosen and remove all the dirt and oils. Just spray it on with a Windex bottle, let it soak and rinse it off with a hose. Make sure you get down inside of the rear quarters. They tend to collect a lot of dirt over the years. Vacuum and get all of that out of there. You should try to get the POR-15 in there if you can. I know there’s not much room to work.

Then you spray on the Metal Ready and let it sit as long as you can without it drying. After you rinse it off with the hose and a fair amount of pressure, it will dry with a white powdery look to it. That normal. I think it is some kind of phosphate that actually attacks the rust. When everything is good and dry, its time to brush on the POR-15. The stuff levels out nice when it dries and in most cases you can even tell there was rust under it. Just make sure you wear gloves. This stuff does not come off after it dries. It takes days to get it off your hands.

On my project I sprayed a light dusting of Eastwoods Self Etching primer on the POR-15 about 4 hours into the drying cycle. This gave the surface a rough texture that I held the paint. POR-15 by itself doesn’t hold paint very well. Some have said you can rough it up with sandpaper. I didn’t do that but it would be cheaper than buy the primer just a lot more work. This stuff is tough after it dries.

You can then shoot on some trunk paint and wa-la! Another thought might be spray cans of polyurethane bed liner. I used that on my frame in the rear and it bonds well to the POR-15. The stuff costs around 6 bucks a can at the auto parts stores. I think the brand I bought was Dupli-Color.

If you find the metal is rotted under the trim. There are a couple low budget fixes there too. Check before you order the POR-15 and let me know.

Dan Solomon
dansolomon@msn.com
70 Chevelle

how exactly do i remove the trim, just pry it??

will i be able to put it back on after checking because i have no garage to park it in. i can see rust on the lower corners of the window so i know theres gonna be some.

No don't pry it off. You will bend the trim and break the clips.

They make a tool the slips under the trim and pulls the clips back. A couple bucks at the auto parts store. If the clips aren't rusted away, you can clean out the area around the window and then snap it back on. If the clips are rusted you have a little more work on your hands but you need to do it.

Chevelles are famous for rusting in this area. I haven't seen one yet that didn't have some. Its not going to matter if the trim is on or not. Its not keeping any water out right now. Its just running through into your trunk.

OPG sells the tool #CVT0039 for $9.95 but I think I bought a set from Harbor Freight for even less.

alright thanks a lot man. you guys are the best. i thought my chevelle was just a rusty one but i guess im not alone.

How do you go about removing the window trim if the owner beforeyou cut the
trim studs off and then screwed the trim clips to the body?