Here it is - a new day and a new question! Just removed the windshield last night and discovered some holes in the window channel. These did not suprise me. In fact I would have been suprised had they not been there. My question is..has anyone used POR-15 and the filler cloth to repair holes in this area of the body. I think I can get in and weld it with some tiny patches, the holes are about the size of a nickel, but it would be a hassle. I just figured it might be simpler to use the POR-15. I just recieved their catalog the other day. I have never used this stuff before but it sounds like the miracle cure for a non-concourse resto/fix-up.

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http://hotred66ss.homestead.com

When I pulled the glass on my 70 I found several small pinholes. I used POR-15 epoxy putty, thn hit with POR-15 paint.

The putty can be smoothed with water before it dries. Great stuff.

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DG
Springfield, Ohio

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The stuff is great! But be sure to follow their instructions to the letter as far as prep work is concerned. The only time I've had problems is when I got in a hurry once when using the Por 15 paint and applied a second coat before the first coat had dried completely. I did get some bubbling. You have to be patient and do it just like it says on the can.

I am just finishing up fixing my window channel with POR-15. I had patched my dime sized holes with fiber glass & resin a couple of years ago & prepped the channel/frame for a new windshield. The glass people screwed up the install of the new windshield, so I had them come out to reinstall it correctly. When they took it out, they left deep scratches in the dash paint. I told them to leave it out while I fix the scratches.

After I got to cleaning off the urethane originally used to install the windshield, I realized that I did not like the fiberglass repair after all. I could see rust reforming under it. I ended up stripping the whole channel back to bare metal.

I used POR-15 black & little pieces of fiberglass matting. I taped the holes closed from underneath. After the top was dry (2-3 coats), I applied a quick coat on the underside after removing the tape. It appears to be a very solid repair.

I used the POR-15 "Tie Coat" primer. The problem that I have run into (& am working to fix today) is some sort of incompatability with the tie coat & laquer paint. After letting the tie coat primer dry 24 hours (per the instructions), I applied a quick coat of Dupont sealer. I then applied the laquer topcoat (dash color). I ended up with some bubbling separation that went all the way down through the tie coat.

Since 95% of the separation was in the low portion of the channel, I concluded that the tie coat was very thick there & I should have let it dry longer.

A lot of people are using POR-15 products. I have yet to hear any negative comments about it. I currently feel confident that any rust repair that I make with this product will be permanent. As Randy mentioned, follow the instructions to the letter. Use their metal prep. I have heard of some people having their POR-15 go bad (solidify) sitting on the shelf. I read in the instructions that refrigerating it will help keep it longer. I have had mine for over 2 years. I use it a little at a time & quickly return it to the frig. right after use. I keep it in a mason jar sealed with plastic wrap.

Good luck,


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Phil Wise
67 SS Convertible
(now on the down slope of the resto curve)

Use the POR-15 putty...it works great. For big holes, you might want to use fiberglass (POR-15 sells some).

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Rick Sutter
Member #383
'67 Chevelle Super Sport
67SS.com (http://67SS.com)

Phil touched on a good point, and something I was reminded of again yesterday. Buy the smallest quantities possible. He's right about it firing off in the can. I just threw out a half quart because it had set up in the can. This stuff is too expensive to be tossing out. I buy it in either the smallest pint cans or the little samplers. They have a special on the 1/2 pint samplers right now. Six for $34.95. I know the folks at Por wouldn't want me telling people to buy in such small quantities, but this stuff goes an extremely long way. Be sure to dip it out of the can and into another container. The point is to open the can of Por, get what you need and close it up as fast as possible, then get the remainder in the fridge. Be sure the lid and top of the can are clean, because it will seal itself. And if you have any left in your secondary container when you're done, DO NOT, DO NOT pour it back into the can. This will contaminate all the Por 15 that you have because Por starts to cure as soon as it's exposed to air. It stays workable for a long time, so no need to rush and get sloppy when painting with it. The thing to remember is, a little goes as long, long way. I'm glad Phil brought this up, because it's something that you needed to know.

[This message has been edited by Randy Mosier (edited 09-02-2000).]

Randy is right. When I put the jar back in the frig. I put plastic wrap underneath the jar's lid. Seal it tight, right away. Two years & still going.

Phil

Thanks guys...
I am glad to hear that soooo many people have had that kind of luck with POR-15. I am going to order some today so i will have it when the body comes back from th e blasting shop.

Can anyone give me an Idea of how much would be needed to do a frame. I am hearing that it takes two coats and I am going to try an "invent" a rig for an old spray gun to get inside the frame. Anyone done this??

Thanks again,

Mike

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http://hotred66ss.homestead.com

I sprayed POR-15 inside my 60 El Camino frame with a lot of success. If you're spraying, a quart should probably do the job. I used a cheap undercoating kit from JC Whitney because it came with different length wands and spray heads that let me get into those tight spots. It worked great.

CAUTION: Believe POR-15 when they say this stuff is poisonous. Do wear the proper air filters (I used 3M charcoal, but they recommend fresh air). The first time I sprayed this stuff I was in an open garage with no mask. I spent the next day in the hospital with pneumonia. I now shoot it outside with a mask.

This paint is very thin. It will pool up or run on you if you try to cover everything in one shot.

I've been using it (and wasting it) for years. It's great. Thanks for the tip on regrigeration. I'm impressed that someone could keep a can in the frig for 2 years.

After about 4 quarts of this stuff I've learned that if you brush it more than once it will bubble up on you. Then I think the instructions say that too.
Plus if there is any amount of moisture it will too.
Want to see that stuff really work good! try sandblasting the parts first MAN!
shiney and you can't beat it off with a hammer. But the sun will dull it, RATS!