I bought a spot weld cutter from Eastwoods. I think it is 3\8 in size. I just tried it on a spot weld in the trunk area. Seems to drill out a big hole. Do you body guys use a smaller cutter? Is there a 1\4 inch or 5|16 that would be more useful in say 65 chevelle car spot welds. I guess I can use this tool to remove all spot welds I encounter, but I was thinking maybe I should buy a smaller one. Your experiences?

You can use a carbide bit on a die grinder and tailor the cut if you like.
Works good for me.

RandyB..
67 chevelle prostreet.

bhawk I think the only size is the 3/8 bit. yes that 3/8 hole is big to weld back up but sometimes a 5/16 hole is too small and you want the bigger size. Stick with the 3/8 bit. Also every weld you dont need to use that remover bit, I use a cutoff wheel lots of times on welds. The best spot would be on the rain gutter where the quarter welds to the gutter along the roof. A cutoff wheel is the only way to reomve those welds. So every weld removed with the bit-NO. But I would recommend you stay away from drill bits, they are hard to control from going into the panel you want to save, plus they take longer then a remover bit...Eric

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1970 chevelle
1970 chevelle SS455 not a typo its a buick baby
1949 and 1972 chevy trucks
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/sevt_chevelles

I agree drill bits are not the best choice for hitting the spot welds. I ran through about 4 of them with the work on my car and no 3/8ths isnt that big of a hole if you heat up some wire. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif then gind down the big pool you make. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif


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Deon Knecht
72 Malibu 350 that has been bored out to 4.251 on a 4" stroke.

<A HREF="http://home.sc.rr.com/deon" TARGET=_blank>
My Website Last updated on 10/28/2002 </A>

I get a feeling that you are cutting through both panels. Being too big really shouldn't be a problem at all if all you are cutting through is the top panel. After you cut through all the welds in the area you are removing remove the piece you were working on and then grind the little round piece left there from the cutter.

That is if you are using the spot weld cutter that looks like a little hole saw. If you are using a "Wivco" or similar product where it is more like a drill bit with a flat end on it, you don't even have to grind off anything when you are done.

I have to say, after 25 years in this business I finally broke down and bought a "Spitznegle" Spot weld driller. It was about $400.00 and worth EVERY cent. I don't expect a home hobbyest to get one but for a guy that does it every day, it was one of the best things I ever put in my tool box/

It has an arm that goes around the back of the weld and the cutting bit is pushed into to it by air. It is effortless to use and really cuts down on the time it takes and most of all my BACK.

Off on another subject, I also recently got a 2" Orbital sander. It is just like a little pistol grip die grinder but the pad orbits like a DA. It has 2" and 3" pads and really saves the back and time on sanding door jams and that sort of thing. You can get one at autobodystore.com for about $120.00 I think. I got it when it was on sale for $89.00.

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

If you are trying to save the bottom panel and not worry about the top, a cut-off grinder is the fastest and cheapest way to separate the panels. Just be careful and aware of where the sparks end up. You don't want them hitting any glass or interior parts.
If you are trying to save the top panel and don't care about saving the bottom panel, a step drill is the fastest and most econonical way to do it. Just quickly drill through both panels.
Even in production body shop situations,spot weld cutters are,in my opinion way to expensive to buy and use and are much slower than the above methods.
Gordon VM
Restoration Motorsports

Gordon, I could drill out about 10 or 15 welds with my Spitznegle in the time it takes to grind one. I am not kidding. Not only that it makes no sparks, and the bits last forever because they are being turned down at a slow speed and are going in at a perfect right angle with the metal. I have had my Spitznegle for about 6 months, I use it darn near every day and have not replaced the bit yet!

It blows grinding them away all to heck. I drill them out and remove the panel like it was unbolted!

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

I've used a spot-weld cutter for years now and it seems to be the standby, quicker than any other method, and I like the cleanliness of it.

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'68 SS-396 with a lil' 283 and th350 (for now)
-2 Below Custom Automotive
Fbks, AK.

[This message has been edited by tblw68ss (edited 10-30-2002).]

thanks all for the remarks. The cutter I have seems to work real nice so I'll use it but be careful not to make a whole in both panels, as I want to save the brace in the trunk, for example, where I am working now.