On a 66 & 67 with the factory gauges as in the SS, what do the marks indicate?
Obviously the FUEL gauge indicats 0,25,50,75% & full. But what about the OIL pressure, AMP & TEMP gauges? What numbers do they indicate or what can they indicate?

I direct this question more towards the new aftermarket conversion kits.

has no one done the conversion?

sorry...........

What about factory gauges? What are the temps indications on the gauges for the 66 & 67 for big block ?????????????

Never done a conversion...

For OIL, its not important (if its "low" on the guage, there are probably problems), and I just look at my Autometer... I placed a "T" in the oil line under the dash; one branch goes to the Autometer, and one to the stock guage...

Been a while,

sorry, my temp is disconnected (using ONLY the Autometer, and didn't want another "wire" going across the engine...
There are also problems with gugae placement that can effect guage temps by 10-15 degrees (in the cylinder head, versus in the intake). I'd imagine the middle of the factory temp guage would be around 180 (what was the stock Therm?), but the next line up is probably around 210 or so (just a guess). Bottom is probably 140+ (upon initial warmup, it often takes a while before the guage even moves)...

BTW, I don't think the fuel guage is 0-25-50-75-100%... Most don't seem to really be linear (first "half" seems to go slower than second "half" of the tank, based on the guage reading)...


For the aftermarket conversions (Shiftworks, etc), have you tried to contact the company making these? Shiftworks might have a better idea what the calibration may be...


What are the temps indications on the gauges for the 66 & 67 for big block ? BTW, 66/67 guages were also available for Small Blocks and 6 cylinder cars, not just BB's... "temp indications" should be the same, as I am pretty sure they used the same senders...

I have done the conversion! 185deg measured with my Stewart Warner gauge,the temp needle registers right at the bottom of the T in the word Temp.

Cold My engines oil pressure is on the plus side of 70psi measured with a Stewart Warner mechanical gauge, it registers maxed out! but warm/hot@ 55psi at idle the needle measures aprox 3/4 of the way between the Third and last mark on the gauge. SO..........my guess would be that each mark is around 15psi if one were trying to divide the marks equal.

AMP gauge either is charging or not

And as far as the fuel gauge goes, I don't treat it any different then the one that came out, you have a 20 gal aprox cap tank. These I don't think were never ment to be nut accurate even when new. They have always been fast at first, or fast toward the last, I know when I get to about an 1/8 of a tank, I fill up, and there is aprox 3 gals left. When I do fill up, the gauge registers full.


Rocky

I have the same basic experience as Rocky (I have Autometer mechanicals and factory guages). The only thing I can add is that I have had my mechanical temp guage up to 230°+ and the factory guage was only about 3/4 of the way to the max.

Obviously I’m more interested in the water temp and oil pressure.
I guess in some ways it concerns me not having numbers on the gauges and having to make mere guesses. Its one step up from idiot lights I guess.

I don’t want gauges hanging, but desire accurate indication of the two main readings.

The idea of also having additional gauges tied in is not a bad idea, maybe even digital and relocate.. In this day and age with micro processors, you would think I could find a digital gauge that records memory and I could pull up and see history… I’m sure they are out there, but inexpensive would be what was desired.

What you might try is beg/borrow a mechanical temp and pressure gauge and test against the others. Once you see what 'normal' hot/cold pressure is and warm/hot temp is like Rocky said, you can remove the mechanicals. You won't know pressure every 5 lbs or temp every 10 degrees, but you'll have a good idea of operating range and can spot when excessively high or low.

Well here is what an expert had to say... 66 & 67 SS gauge cluster...


GAS= duh....

OIL= Every mark on the SS 66-7 gauge cluster indicates 20#, the factory gauge is an 80lb gauge.

TEMP= 100 to 250 deg. Making center 175..

BATT= The conversion is in volts not amps as the original was. The gauge is supposed to be 8.2-18.8 V range, but was told center was 14.2...... ??
But I'm still a bit confused about this one and plan to follow up...



PLease feel free to chime in!!!!!!!!!


conversion parts
http://i11.ebayimg.com/03/i/00/92/f1/d7_1.JPG

Sounds logical. Personally, I'm glad to see they turned the AMP gauge into a Voltmeter instead. Safer to hookup and is more informative IMO.

You can buy them either way, mine is an AMP...... not a volt meter!

The following is cut and paste from www.shiftworks.com (http://www.shiftworks.com)

These conversion gauges are designed to fit into the EXISTING openings in the back of the dash. They include the Temperature sensing device and the mechanical Oil Pressure line and fittings. An ammeter* is standard, as was used by GM.


Ammeter gauges

http://shiftworks.com/graphics/SK100-dia.gif



Voltmeter gauges
http://shiftworks.com/graphics/SK101-dia.gif

I noticed an interesting bit, the picture of the kit Mike posted shows plastic oil line, mine came with the copper tube.



Rocky

I noticed an interesting bit, the picture of the kit Mike posted shows plastic oil line, mine came with the copper tube.
Rocky


Well, considering, I've found prices for these ranging from $165 to $205... That is a significant difference... I could have extra money to buy some copper..lol


So, how did the factory oil pressure gauge tubing go through the firewall and where was it located? Did they use the black booger stuff to seal it?

Mike Crown posted a picture the other day showing the correct location of the oil line! It goes through the firewall with a rubber grommet. I'm not sure if there are other companys selling the gauge conversions, I highly suggest that you tgo with the Shiftworks brand.

I don't think anyone could tell the difference from original after installed.



Rocky

Mike Crown posted a picture the other day showing the correct location of the oil line!
I don't think anyone could tell the difference from original after installed.
Rocky



Can ya help me find this photo/link?

To what I understand, there is a slight appearance difference. And only one company that makes these.

Here is an image of an SS firewall, just scroll down the page...

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102407

It seems the dimples in the firewall where placed there to show the factory worker where the respective holes should be drilled.