I finally got around to removing my rear window and NO BREAK !! :D
I found several areas where the metal "sill" where the window sits has rusted through along both bottom and sides. I was wondering what the easiest way to repair this might be. I do have a Mig welder if needed but was thinking that the POR Patch or something like that might work best. How have ya'll fixed this in the past ? :confused:

I have always welded a piece into the area making sure it is water tight. Unfortunately, the design of this area forces water to lay in the corners eventually causing the rust to return.

My next time around I will probably use lead for the repair in an effort to eliminate problems. Does anyone have a suggestion about how to keep water from being trapped in the corners?

Thanks Eduardo. I removed my front windshield last week and found no problems except for very minor surface rust(thank goodness)so I cleaned all sealant from sill and scuffed with a red 3M pad on the die grinder. I cleaned it with wax and grease remover and then applied a coat of POR-15 to the entire surface where the new seal and windshield will sit. I will never have rust here again.

Any opinions related to the POR Patch for my rear window rust holes from anybody ??? :confused:

I have my 69 body off now. Have not removed glass yet. Just a thought. Is there enough room to weld some type of hose barb in the window channel Then install a drain hose.
Ron

POR putty is magic if you can't weld a new piece in.

Originally posted by Ron_Long:
I have my 69 body off now. Have not removed glass yet. Just a thought. Is there enough room to weld some type of hose barb in the window channel Then install a drain hose.
Ron I wondered about using a piece of 1/4 copper pipe. Drill a hole flare the top of the pipe slightly, slide it in from the top, solder it into place, attach a plastic/rubber hose to the pipe, run it out at the bottom of the quarter. One on each corner should do it. what do you think? I might try it on the 70.

Copper/steel electrolosis?

I have been thinking the same thing about adding drain lines. Anyway, why not just weld a section of brake line or something that you could push a hose over and then run it out the bottom of the 1/4. I don't think soldering it is a good idea unless you are doing a lead repair, then it would work if tinned properly.

On my son's 72 we did a lot of work welding then body filler in the corners and now some bubbles are starting to appear only 5 years later. The car rarely sits outside, but I notice that after he washes it there is water in the corners.

My most recent 69 was a convertible so no problems there, but I have a 69 SS hardtop coming up and if it seems like a good idea I think the drain lines are going to happen.

actually I was concerned about the welding. I'm ok, but not that good. With the copper and solder there would be less heat and it flows into recesses. You're right, I was just thinking along different lines.

I didn't even think about the reaction between the dis-simular metals.. good point. But man, welding all the way around a pipe the size of break line... WOW...

Ron [/qb][/QUOTE]I wondered about using a piece of 1/4 copper pipe. Drill a hole flare the top of the pipe slightly, slide it in from the top, solder it into place, attach a plastic/rubber hose to the pipe, run it out at the bottom of the quarter. One on each corner should do it. what do you think? I might try it on the 70. [/QB][/QUOTE]
I did that on my '69, only I used a couple short pieces of brake line. I drilled holes on each side of the glass channel at the low spots beneath the window trim but outside the sealing bead area. I slid the lines into the holes til they seated on the flare. Then epoxied in place and smoothed in. I attached lengths of rubber hose with hose clamps and ran the hoses over the wheel housings to the bottom on the quarter in front of the housing. You can't see them unless you bend over and really look for them in the trunk.

The sides and bottom were rusted or on my 68 in the same place. I tried the POR black paste stuff and it sucked so I just put in new metal. If possible I recommend that and then use the POR15 to paint the area. To finish it, get a bar of the por putty to shape and form the area to the desired look. It should look good, be most durable of the other options, and be POR water tight. Even if future water sits in the joint, it should be water tight and rust prevented from the POR 15 products! graemlins/beers.gif

Great ideas and input graemlins/thumbsup.gif I think I am leaning toward welding in some metal strips somehow to cover the holes, then seal the seams as needed. After that, I will paint with POR-15 as I did on the front windshield. Honestly, the drain pipes at the corners idea popped into my head yesterday and in theory it is a good idea, but all I could see in my mind was rust and rot forming around this penetration. I will try to seal this area as watertight as possible before installing the window trim. Thanks everybody graemlins/waving.gif

After the repairs are made and the window reinstalled, fill the remainder of the window channel with urethane or butyl in a calking tube. This will keep the water from sitting around the glass.

ah, the eternal rear glass channel rust....
There are stamped pieces already formed to weld in to completely replace the channel, which I think is the only correct way to start, then, the drain hoses might help, cept of course the leafy stuff or needles get in and clog them. the crud that sits in the channel becomes acidic as it deteriorates and is primarily what starts the process.
I think the best epoxy primer you can get first, then paint. make sure to touch up the trim studs when you put the clips on because they will scratch or chip. Once the glass is in, I like the idea of filling the channel, but clearance to get the mouldings down seems to be a problem.
I think perhaps blowing the channel out with compressed air on a regular basis might help, and maybe some of the yellow wax oil in the channel might help, and don't forget the underside of the panel where condensation from the road tends to collect!...good luck!

Mine has some rust there too, pin holes.
I'm in the process also. Cut out the problem areas and replace them. This is the only way to do a proper repair. Any plastic fillers, puttys ect. will only come back to haunt you later. I bent up some repair patches and welded them in.

I think my next project will include welding in patches, providing a drain tube for each side, and then using lead for any filler needed. If this doesn't last I can't imagine what will.

Seems extreme, but sometimes a little extra effort pays off.