does any one have any info on boxing the frame on a 1970 chevelle malibu to stifen it up for cornering . unlike the elcamino and station wagon frames the malibu ones have that 3 angle open box in the center . is there any special way to box that in ? or do i just remove the frame and get some 3/16 flat stock and go to town. / also i want to go tubelar del a lum bushings control arms top and bottom who makes a set that will allow me to use my current spindles and factory front disc . I NEED INPUT . thanks much guys

The real question here is how hard are you going to be carvin up the twisties with a stock spindle and stock front disc brakes? Hard enough to benefit from the added stiffness that boxing the frame is going to add?
Seems like boxing the frame would be overkill, but maybe you have bigger plans in the future.

you are proably right as for carving corners not that often i guess i am mainley bothered in the flex i feel when cornering or goin over uneven pavement its like a sea saw in the middle ,that may be a bit drastic. no serious competition plans in the future just great handling.

Here's some pics that I had for a couple people that basically rewelded the entire frame, boxed it, and reinforced in in a few critical areas (lower control arm mounts, rear frame to upper shock/spring mount, etc. Looks pretty nice and can be quite effective. Also check body mounts.

http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/7176/framewelds73tb.th.jpg (http://img20.imageshack.us/my.php?image=framewelds73tb.jpg)
http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/554/framewelds19oo.th.jpg (http://img20.imageshack.us/my.php?image=framewelds19oo.jpg)
http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/8746/framewelds22fh.th.jpg (http://img20.imageshack.us/my.php?image=framewelds22fh.jpg)
http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/4962/framewelds32mi.th.jpg (http://img80.imageshack.us/my.php?image=framewelds32mi.jpg)
http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/7951/framewelds43yf.th.jpg (http://img80.imageshack.us/my.php?image=framewelds43yf.jpg)
http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/5443/framewelds58cm.th.jpg (http://img20.imageshack.us/my.php?image=framewelds58cm.jpg)
http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/6898/framewelds65ti.th.jpg (http://img20.imageshack.us/my.php?image=framewelds65ti.jpg)
http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/5671/smallpicture0026gb.th.jpg (http://img109.imageshack.us/my.php?image=smallpicture0026gb.jpg)
http://img160.imageshack.us/img160/3220/smallpicture0141xk.th.jpg (http://img160.imageshack.us/my.php?image=smallpicture0141xk.jpg)
In fact I think I got these from someone's site on here so maybe they'll chime in. Also if you haven't already done a search I believe this was covered on one of these forums. I forget though douh! Adding bulkheads every 8-10 inches would assist in some added torsional rigidity, but probably unecessary especially for what you are doing.

Shane

wow great pic,s thanks . now all that didnt make sense makes sense . thank you

Don't forget if you bax the frame where the original crossmember went you'll have to build a new one with tabs that weld to your boxwd section. Or you could leave that section open.

I boxed the frame on my 70 with metal of same gauge as the frame. Be sure to stitch weld to avoid warping the frame. I left the area around the cross member open, and made a bolt in section. This allows me to unbolt it and remove the cross member if necessary. If your going to bare frame be sure to consider galvanizing it.
As for suspension, read ALL of Dennis68's entries on this site. He's the MAN when it comes to suspension! Don't waste your money on control arms until you read his stuff.

Those pics are from airrj's website. Check it out!
http://www.buffnet.net/~airrj/ :thumbsup: