Just pulled up the carpets and the floors look pretty solid is POR 15 recommendeed for the interior floor pans.

What do you guys like to use?

POR is good if you have bare metal Especially, if you wire-wheeled surface rust like I did on my floors. this was in a couple spot that probably had collected water which rotted the carpet.

But if you have a painted surface in good shape, it's not called for.

I would just use a sprayable quality rattle can paint and give it a good coat.

Now there are some guys who put "Line-X" in the trunk and the floors.

I think I would like to do something like that in the trunk.

I think when I redo my car I am going to try that lizard skin.

Nelson

Sand blast them inside and outside, inside ppg epoxy, outside ppg epoxy, duraglas and k38 then a semigloss black.

Sand blast them very carefully, don't want to warp the panels.

Rob

Sand blast them inside and outside, inside ppg epoxy, outside ppg epoxy, duraglas and k38 then a semigloss black.

Sand blast them very carefully, don't want to warp the panels.

Rob

On good floors? He'll spend the next 5 years dealing with all the sand in the car, around the car and everywhere inbetwix. Not to mention the possible warping issue. Doesnt seem warranted here, IMO

Scuff the floors and go to town with rust encapsulator and then top coat with whatever you want.

Scuff the floors, prep and POR and leave it be. No need to topcoat, it wont see any sun.

Only thing I would sandblast any time would be small chassis / suspension components, wheels and only in an enclosure or a frame (and in the case of a frame, I would not do it myself unless I was also building a sand box for my kids to play in and the neighbors cat to poop in) Its just so damn messy and a pain to clean up entirely. I did a few small pieces at a buddys house in the open and it was pretty crappy. Cannot imagine doing an entire body and floors, especially on a solid set of floor pans where there is no need to completely strip.

Just my manual power, going through this myself at the moment .0002

That's why I put this question out to you guys, I knew there'd be plenty of solid opinions to help me develop a plan. Any other suggestions?

When I installed the new floorpans, I only sprayed the weld lines and the drains. What I used was an undercoating made by....3M I believe. Worked pretty well. Gave it two coats and it covered everything. Don't know whether that would be a viable option for a complete floor.

Chris

bcool, just a suggestion here, if you could put some top and bottom pictures of your floor pans, all of us would have a better idea of what you're dealing with.

Thanks Rob

Yeah, I'd love to but I haven't quite figured out how to post pictures... I've tried...

What's with this Lizard Skin I've been hearing about?

When I installed the new floorpans, I only sprayed the weld lines and the drains. What I used was an undercoating made by....3M I believe. Worked pretty well. Gave it two coats and it covered everything. Don't know whether that would be a viable option for a complete floor.

Chris
I used 3M undercoating, the expensive stuff my buddy gave me from his bodyshop 7 years ago. still looks good, cars been sitting outside for several years

What's with this Lizard Skin I've been hearing about?


Here is a little info


http://www.hotrodscustomstuff.com/PS-LizSkin.html


Automotive Restoration Shops...
Spray on LizardSkin® Ceramic Insulation is becoming a big favorite of professional restoration shops as a way to dramatically improve thermal and acoustic performance without altering the critical “original” nature of a vehicle. It works almost magically to stop heat and noise and can be easily applied to components before re-assembly. When used in combination with LizardSkin® SC Sound Control formula, the finished installation will offer greatly reduced heat and noise.
LizardSkin® Ceramic Insulation is recommended for use on firewalls, floorpans, transmission tunnels, doors, hoods, trunk lids, under headliners and fenders. It can become virtually invisible when sanded and painted to match original colors. It’s Class A fire-rated and lightweight--requires application to only 0.040” (about credit card thickness). Fast clean up with soap & water makes applying LizardSkin® Ceramic Insulation a hassle-free experience.

Testimonials from Professionals

“I applied four gallons of LizardSkin® to the entire interior trunk area….the sound level and deadness of the panels is truly amazing!….measured a 30 degree temp differential skin temp to inside temp.”


John Nissen
Nissen’s Hot Rod Garage
Williams, California


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“… sprayed the inside and underside of a 1936 Ford …out in the sun one day, roof temperature of the 1936 Ford was about thirty degrees cooler than the 1965 Ford Falcon right next to it.”


Jim Mercer
Street Rod Shop, Inc.
Jacksonville, FL

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“We’ve used LizardSkin in a ’37 Chevy Sedan, ’39 Lincoln Zephyr, ’48 Chevy pickup and ’40 Ford so far… every vehicle that comes out of this shop will have LizardSkin® Ceramic Insulation in it.”

Dan Paladino
Hobby Shop Hot Rods
Newnan, Georgia


The company was formed in 1998 by street rod enthusiasts who wanted to solve the problem of engine heat and noise in custom cars. As you know, these problems exist because the output of modern engines is well beyond what the body components of vintage street rods were originally designed to contain.

Our research led to the aerospace industry and high temperature ceramic insulation concepts.
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“LizardSkin® was easy to apply and works much better than others in keeping my car cool inside. The deadening effects also made the sound system much greater and clearer…thank you for a great product.”

I've used an International paints product on three cars two yacht board helicopter pads and numerous large ship decks decks. International part number pro reco PRA-250. It's a blackish polyurethane base rubber like coating which seals like a SOB. You MUST prep the steel first. In true wet with saltwater, vibration, heating and cooling, etc, it holds up. It can also be found on some aircraft carrier decks. lays up to 3/8 in. Can be sprayed with the right gun. I should be a sales rep for this product. I'm not aware why the automotive industry doesn't utilize this.

POR15. Goes on easy and sticks. Then I used a dynamat like pad. Undercoating where I couldn't put pad.

The LizardSkin sounds good for complete soundproofing and protection of the interior and I've been thinking about it. The 2 gallon Sound Contol Formula costs $160 then the application gun another $140 = $200.00.

Of course you could buy some rubberized undercoating like what's available at Eastwood or at your local auto store. Eastwood's product covers up to 7 square feet for $10.99 an aerosol can. The interior of my 66 Chevelle is approximately 6' wide x 8' long, including into the floor pan toes and up the floor rear seat area toward the trunk, which is 48 sq feet. 48 / 7 = 7 cans * $11.00 per can = $77.00........

Just found some other stuff for sound proofing & undercoating from a member on another car site http://www.quietcar.net

My floors were in pretty good condition. I scuffed them up and used POR-15. You can see the pics in my "bodywork" link below.

I'm not aware why the automotive industry doesn't utilize this.

Price, most likely. We use a lot of International products at work, and the boss is always looking for leftover paint to scold someone about the price. ;)

I'm going to use "VORTEX" the spray on splatter paint for bed liners. It looks great in the trunk and very close to what GM used, while I'm there I'm going to spray the floor and pans. It has to be applied with a gun but it goes on thin like a trunk splatter paint would out of a can and it's water proof too. Learned this from BillL

Silver Por 15. Can't beat it. Dig out the old seam sealer before you paint and apply new sealer when you're done.

Silver Por 15. Can't beat it. Dig out the old seam sealer before you paint and apply new sealer when you're done.

Any adhesion concerns with seam sealer over POR? Did you need to scuff it or did you just lay it down over top without doing anything at all?

I was thinking of using their sealer type stuff (POR patch in the tubes) which is basically just thicker POR but if the 3M stuff works fine, i'd rather go that route.