U-joints [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: U-joints


Ron454
Mar 14th, 06, 12:49 PM
Another question.

At what point performance wise does it become necessary to switch from the stock size 1310 series u-joints to the larger 1350 series? I'm talking typical 3500lb cars like most of us have.

I have the 1310 stuff, hd u-joints and a custom 3" driveshaft all from Dutchman.
I realize that the trans and rear end yokes need to change to go to the larger size, but does the driveshaft have to go to 4"? From past experience, 4" drive shafts are a pain in the butt to install....

As I sneak up on the 9 second range, I don't want to have to be hauled off the starting line with a floor jack........
Besides, I drive to the track....good thing I have friends with trailers.

Ron

bracketchev1221
Mar 14th, 06, 12:59 PM
If you are that close to going in the 9's I would go to the largest joints possible. Yes the starting line is the best place to lose the shaft, but my friend lost the shaft at speed and it beat everything until the car stopped. Go for the bigger joints. You don't necessarily need a 4" driveshaft to do it.

427L88
Mar 14th, 06, 1:49 PM
Oh yes! It's the 3500 lbs that's a killer. Hey, I have a 12 sec car and opened up a rear yoke ( stick car ). 3" Dennys Nitrous Ready with 1350s. ( TC discount applies!) Denny told me I'd mess something up eventually. Weight.

www.dennysdriveshaft.com

Don't tell him I sent ya, he'll charge ya MORE! :)