Hi Guys,
I have a 69 Big Block Chevelle and I am trying to find out what brand Headers fit best without any modifications on installation and provide the most ground clearance.

I have installed Doug Thorleys and they bolted in excellent, seem well constructed but the drivers side hangs much lower than the pass side. I have pounded the tubes already a few time because of this on the drivers side. Pass side never a problem. I have new springs and shocks and car sits at perfect height so thats not the problem. tt is definately the construction of this particular brand header for this car as I dont think they have the engineering down quite right at Thorley. All feedback welcome.

I'm using Hedman 2"x3" #65002 I believe, excellent fit, my deep transmission pan hangs down lower than collectors.

I have Sanderson 3/4 length on mine. These are very well made, thick flange and the tubes go through and weld on the inside. The collector is before the turn is made so the pipes have to made with the turn up to the headers. This makes for great ground clearance. I could not be happier with them.

Bob, I have the 65002 also. Does yours have the 3-bolt flange on the collectors? I have a problem w/the collector flanges (drivers side primarily) hitting the X-member. Do you have this issue?

Vince-Bob is that Hedman #65002 a full tube and ceramic coated ?

dont mean to butt in I have the 66002 hedmans and they are the 2"ceramic full length and the only problem i had was the a/c box that I did away with,ends of the A/arm bolts on the rite side that I trimed alittle and had to move the bottom of the steering column over to clear them on the left side.Plenty of ground clearence and no problem with the cross member,I like them a lot.

Mike,

Yes it is. Its a 2" primary though. You probably should use the 1 3/4 primaries. Whatever you go with, try to get the ball and socket type flange so you can drop the exhaust easily, and not have to buy gaskets to do so. Not to mention they create a leak-free seal.

I just got my 68 Beaumont out of the shop last week. I have a big block and used the 2" Hooker Competition ceramic coated headers. The fit is good and there is plenty of ground clearance.
James

Vince why do you recommend the 1 3/4 vs 2"..

jfkheat the Beaumont is basically a Chevelle correct? what under hood differances have you noticed in regards to exhaust?

Mike, people here swear by the 1.75 b/c they seem to make more torque than the 2", and this is w/motors that make alot more power than ours. Theres documented examples of cars slowing down in the 1/4 mile by going to 2" headers w/no other changes.
.
If it wasn't for like 400.00 I'd swap mine out for the 1.75. Mine are like new, so the'll have to stay.

I'm using Hedman 2"x3" #65002 I believe, excellent fit, my deep transmission pan hangs down lower than collectors.

same here, they fit great and the ground clearance is excellent.

Mine have the ball and socket flange, no interference with the crossmember at all. The 2" headers picked mine up, but I have a few more cubes. I know Ed uses 1.75" tubes running LOW 10's but he has scavenger collectors on his. The Hedmans with bigger tubes actually fit better than the Dynomax headers and I don't have to squeeze my oil filter in and out.

Im running a stock 454HO crate with 2.5" from collectors back so I would think the 1 3/4" would work for my set up. I dont really plan on ratting out this particular car any further because its all stock. The reason I put the 454 crate in it in the 1st place was to preserve the original engine, car has never been molested and is all numbers matching right down to the original Quadrabog. The original manifolds were just gagging this 454HO

Please explain the ball and socket thing I have no idea what that means

Get the Hedman Elite long tube 1.75" coated headers. Fit is incredible. Just reinstalled mine 1.75's with my new 460CI motor. JMHO, but 1.75's are plenty for up to about a 450 - 470 CI 500HP motor. After that, I would definitely move to 2" and truthfully I would even use 1.75's on a mild-warm 500 incher. Get into the 540CI range, then move to the equal length 2-1/8" headers with the 2 pc primaries as these are much easier to install. But for your 454HO, get the Hedman Elite - you will be more than satisfied.

PS - the ball/socket connection at the collector uses a rounded off collector tube and a flared out header reducer that mates the collector allowing it to seal without a gasket and also allow for a slight bit of deflection.

I have the el-cheapo $86 Summit headers, fit fine, no mods needed.

Thanks guys thats what I needed to hear. Hedmans looking good so far. Wish I found this tech forum before I got these Doug Thorelys

GRN69CHV Any problems with the Muncie or stock shifter linkage? brake line clearance at frame? power steering? You have the part # for these for 4 speed by chance?

Can't help you on that, I run an automatic, but can't see clutch linkage as a problem, there is a ton of room. By virtue of the tube diameter, 1.75's can be made more compact. Install from the bottum with oil filter and starter removed, pretty standard procedure for any header install. I do run a Powermaster mini gear reduction starter, bought it after my stock starter crapped out.

GRN69 I have that mini started also. Pass side dropped right in with the Thorleys, I had to jack the engine about 4" to get the drivers side in but I was doing it on the floor with no lift, lift would have help loads.
Can you get to the oil filter with ease to change it? Do you have angle spark plugs?
My main concern it not having to cut up my car for headers and get the most clearance from full tubes.
Though about shortys but I might as well leave the stock manifolds on.

Mike, my 2" fit perfect aside from a slight ding on one tube for the steering shaft. Z-bar and all that stuff is not a problem. Except for that d@mn collector hitting the x-member problem I'm having. But it seems the newer headers have a redesigned collector mounting setup, so you'll be good.

Hey Vince, is it possible I don't have crossmember interference because I'm using a th400 and the crossmember is slid back further in the frame?

jfkheat the Beaumont is basically a Chevelle correct? what under hood differances have you noticed in regards to exhaust?


The Beaumont engine compartment is just like the Chevelle ones. There are a few body and interior differences. Other than that, it is the same car as the Chevelle.
James

Bob, good question. I was under the assumption that the trans's are the same length.

With the 1.75's, there is plenty of room for filter access - even with my oversize bear paws for hands. My collector ends about 6" in front of the crossmember with the T400 setup. As a note, header collector length as manufactured is a mute point on a closed exhaust system, especially if the head pipe is the same diameter as the collector. If the flange is in the way, just cut it off and either move it up or back to clear the crossmember. I have said this before (but no one really ever does this), that the collector should be the correct length and (same diameter of the header collector) to tune the headers {approx 18" - 24" or as calculated}, then should change diameter to kill the scavange. Motors with true street headers with short collectors run like crap (and sound terrible) when opened up and not extended properly. JMHO, get the header you want, don't worry about crossmember clearance, this is nothing that can not be fixed with a Saws-All.

Joe, if I cut the flanges off and move them, I'll have to take the headers off to weld them. I'll never be able to get the bead all the way around the collector.

No need to weld them all the way around. All I would do is cut off the flange, and slip an expanded tube over the round collector a good 3" or so until tightly seated. Clamp on or just lay on some tack welds on each side to retain. No diferent than any other slip joint. Unless the system has terrible back pressure, it won't leak. The 2 pc. primary tube headers use slip joints all the time. Didn't mean this as a negative, but sometimes we just have to be prepared to get out the saw to make things work better.

Im not opposed to cutting the header, just not the car. What happens to the finish of the ceramic coating when it has been welded? Will hi-temp paint hold up? Any ideas. Im just thinking down the road about rust.

Once they are ceramic coated, they will not weld. You would need to get all the way down to the metal. Personally I wouldn't even consider cutting up a new set of headers, kind of beats the purpose in the first place. Getting back to the original, take a good look at the Hedman 1.75" Elite, you will plenty satisfied.

Vince, you should be able to get a good mig gun pretty much all the way up both sides, run the puddle from bottom to top, just use a piece of scrap sheet metal above to protect your floor & insulation /carpet from getting too hot. Or I like GRN69 idea about tapping it in till tight and tack it. I would make the tacks at least 1/2" long so they wont crack easily.

Grn69 Im going to search that site tonight and see if I can find what you describe. I just feel kinda dumb getting these Thorelys and not having them quite right. Besides this clearance problem on the one side they are a well built header though.

I'm gonna just move the x-member back a notch by extending the the plate that transmount sits on. I have to replace it anyway cause its all butched up. In hindsight, I shoulda just shortened the collectors a little and installed the ball and socket flanges. Would be nice to drop the exhaust easily.
Shouldn't have to deal w/this for this kinda $$$. The ones that GRN69CHV are a good fit, you'll have no problems. Note the handsome collector flanges:
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/hed-68198_w.jpg

I have looked for a good header in the 2" range for my 66 with the 489. The Hooker Super Comps are an option as are the Hedeman custom built ones. They are pricey not as bad as the Stahls or Lemons.

FYI, my coated Hedemans rusted ant look like hell after a couple years in the mid west.

I know a friend with a 67 has the Hooker Comps and had to dented and hang too low for my car he also had to fab a tool to get to one of the spark plugs

The Hedman 2" are kind of a bitch in my '66. I had the 1 3/4" primaries with my previous 431 (427+.060) with 500+hp, they were much easier across the board.

With the 2", I can still change the oil filter, but have to use a particular sparkplug socket (some are too deep) and have to use a wrench on all but two. My current issue is removing the trans with or without unbolting the headers from the head. The tranny has to nearly stand on it's tail, then twist to get the ears for the dust cover past the passenger side tubes, before leveling out. Not so easily done solo.

On your application, I agree with the 1 3/4" suggestion, much easier to change plugs, preserve wires and just about every other procedure commonly hindered by headers.