Experiencing Fuel Preesure Creep Problems. Fuel Pressure Creeps Up Until It Pegs The Pressure Guage At Over 15 Psi. Have Tried Three Different Regulators And Two Different Guages. Same Probelm Returns Each Time.this Is A 140 Gph Pump With Dead Head Regulators. Do I Need To Run A Return Line Back To The Tank To Fix This? Also 1/2" Fuel Lines For System Are Being Used.this Is For My Nitrous Fuel Supply To The Fuel Solenoid. Any Help Is Greatly Appreciated.

Mine creeps on the nitrous side, usually up to about 13psi, drops to 8.5psi as soon as I open the fuel solenoid,,, on the carb side mine is at 11psi cold and about 8psi after its warmed up. I'm using the Comp 140 with the deadhead regulator that comes with it. I havent had any fuel problems. I am using 8an from pump to carb. I've thought about using the factory return line also, but I don't think its big enough.

Thanx Bob. Do You Think Your Running Too Rich On The Nitrous With That Kind Of Pressure? I Was Thinking Of Using A 6an Line For A Return Line To See If This Helps. I'm Using One Pump For Carb And Nitrous Use With A Regulator For Each. The Carb Regulator Holds Pressure Fine. They Are Both The Same Type Regulator On There Now.

I was going to ask, if this was with the motor off, because I have the return line off of the pump. With this I still see the fuel pressure creep up occasionally. But with the engine running it works fine.

Bracketchev1221, This Happens With The Motor On Or Off.

what type of regulator is it? BG 2 ports regulators are notorious for this - I had the problem and fixed it with a much cheaper regulator.

I'm not a carb nitrous guru, but a well know person I know likes this fact. You still set it flowing to 6-7 psi, whatever, but you better eliminate a lean hit I just about always see with nitrous.

As long as the flowing is steady and consistent, I think it may be desirable. Nitrous at 1000 PSI get there a lot faster than 6 psi of fuel which is not good.

NX says 8 psi flowing fuel pressure is safe lean. Thats what I've been using with barely 600psi bottle pressure so I'm too fat on the nitrous side still yet. That is why I am only seeing the very slight increases when I decide to hit it with nitrous. No doubt it will go 130 plus, but I'm still working on the suspension,antiroll bar because of the new converter. My son was telling me it pulled both wheels 2-3" spinning. just gotta stick it now.

What he's trying to say is that the pressure won't stabilize from its preset value. In other words if he sets it at 7lbs it will creep relatively quickly to the limit stop on the gauge......so no telling what it really ends up at but it doesnt respond to changes in adjustment either..........the trash issue has already been looked at ........its clean. Its as if the reg. cannot keep up. I havent had any problems with regulators that dont regulate so .........what say the rest of you? BTW ......It has happened to several in this same car. Sounds like he needs a return.

Don't all deadhead regulators have some kind of creep? Can the pressure be set at the pump?

laughingrat, here's one option - I have used it with success.

Make a bleedoff system for the regulator - a very small jetted return to add compressibility to the system - but not enough to steal press/vol from the nitrous system when in use.

From the 1/8" NPT port put a 1/8" to -3AN male fitting, take the fitting and cut off the flare so that it is flat like a nitrous jet fitting. Insert nitrous jet in the hole - try .018 or .020" and then run a -3 line from the fitting to a small container initially to make sure it fixes your problem. It is just going to be a "drip" of fuel but it will allow the air to get out and add some compressibility. Even though a regulator to a carb is deadheaded, is isn't nearly as "deadheaded" than the nitrous system because at least the carb has more volume of line the needle and seat that moves etc. Usually a nitrous system has the regulator and solenoid with only inches of line in between so the regulator gets hammered from both sides. The least creep can be found with the cheapo holley 12-802 regs. They have an operating range however so if you are using high pressure tuneups you should buy a modified 12-802 from Jeff Prock at www.appliednitrous.com (http://www.appliednitrous.com) . They are not expensive but he machines them a bit and changes the spring so they are creep-resistant.

If you are not cost-averse, you can go to John at www.productengr.com (http://www.productengr.com) and check out his bypass systems. VERY nice, I might have a spare one for sale if I could only find it.

http://www.productengr.com/images/Product%20photos/Bypass%20Systems/PE%209600%20BL.jpg

Talked to Howard Stewart at Racepumps about this. He says to take the regulator apart and modify it by taking a peen and wailing on something. He tried to explain it to me over the phone, but I had absolutely no clue what he was talking about. The fix apparently takes just seconds to effect. He says he does it to all his billet regulators. Does anyone know what Stewart is talking about? Pictures are a must because Stewart couldn't make me understand.

No offense but I wouldn't recommend anyone wailing on the internals of their regulator... and also no offense, but as far as I know Stewart has only been making pumps and regulators for a matter of months so I would go with the proven old school holley cheapo regulator on a nitrous system like most of the promods out there...

Thanks To Everyone For Your Responses And Help. They Are Greatly Appreciated. I Will Have To Try These Solutions And Come Up With The Best One For My Application. Thanks Again.