I bought an all-original 67 in Marina Blue. The paint is aged but amazing looking with some slight heat bubbles and spider webbing. The previous owner applied many spots of touch up paint to cover chip marks. The application is somewhat heavy-handed and I'm wondering if someone can remove the touch up paint without ruining the factory paint underneath. Any ideas? I'm in the L.A. area.
Thanks

You might give rubbing compound a try... or 400 grit wet, then finer and finer then buff..

Thanks. There is quite a difference in height where the factory paint is chipped away but the previous owner layed the touch-up pretty far onto the good paint also.
Maybe I'm looking for a high-tech material that can be moulded into these relief areas so they are built up to the right height and then something blended in so I can keep the car original?

Originally posted by sk1:
Thanks. There is quite a difference in height where the factory paint is chipped away but the previous owner layed the touch-up pretty far onto the good paint also.
Maybe I'm looking for a high-tech material that can be moulded into these relief areas so they are built up to the right height and then something blended in so I can keep the car original? If you have recessed areas like scratches into the original paint, you might try scuffing with 120 grit very carefully and apply a few very thin layers of poly glazing putty (filler), then sand with 320. You would then need to apply touch-up of course.

the car's original paint is quite thin I'm sure so try not to do any major sanding. Here's a little trick you can try if I can explain it OK. Take a single edge razor blade and dull or slightly round off the corners with a file or grinder. Take some masking tape and put on layer over the edge on the outer 25% of the blade leaving the center 50% of the cutting edge unprotected---you now have a disposable denibbing tool. Use the modified blade to remove the high spots on them touch areas by keeping it straight up and down perpendicular to the work surface and scrape off the excess material with light strokes. Keep the blade straight up and dowwn and you will never cut into your finish. After the nibs have been shaved down to the point of being almost flush you can slightly sand the spots with 2000 and buff. This also works for removing most of the material off of a paint run or sag. You can shave it down so it will cure at the same rate as the rest of the finish then wet block and buff. Hope I helped, Hope it was explained OK :cool:

Thanks. I just found out that the paint isn't original when a body man rubbed 2000 on the fender and it came up white. He says that indicates a clearcoat. (It came up blue on the door-jamb, original paint there)I guess the repair tips will still work though, eh?

yup, same for bc/cc, but usually a tougher color match with chip repairs

Thanks. Any ideas for filling and/or building up he chipped out areas?

If it's a metalic color this can be very difficult with the bc/cc, solid colors are more forgiving. If it's a metalic I think your best bet would be to use the base color mixed 50/50 with catalyzed clear. Or base color first followed by a light sanding to remove any excess from the perimeter of the chip then clear. Test to see what works best. You'll have to build up the craters with multiple coats applied not so wet that the metalics fall. Let them dry overnight to shrink down and apply more the next day if necessary. When the spots are done shrinking you can cut the excess off and rub them out. Generally the repairs will show alittle with lighter metalics, darker colors are more forgiving, and solids can be almost perfect when properly done.