I have 2 concerns before I venture to the track with my Chevelle...

I was told a car that's faster than 12 sec needs a roll bar/cage? I think I'm gonna be running high 11's.

I have my battery in the trunk but don't have a cut off switch.


I'm not going to be entering into any competitions. Just want to go to a couple test and tune or time trial nights. Do the tracks inspect cars for these things on those nights? I'll be going to Norwalk raceway in Ohio.

11.5 is the roll bar rule at the tracks I go to in Washington state.

11.99 or quicker for our local tracks.
but what some of my friends do, is tell the tech inspectors it runs mid to high 12s. then make a coupe of pass where they let off before the finish, so the pull some 12s then go all out before they go home. .

btw, you would also need a fire jacket when they require roll bar/cage.
and as far as the battery is concerned, well try to put a dumy in the front?? and comoflouge the one in the trunk??

Both NHRA and IHRA say you are good to an 11.50 without a rollbar.. Here is a list of things I came up with for the Northstar Chevelle club..

THE BASIC ITEMS NEEDED TO PASS TECH INSPECTION FOR THE TYPICAL STREET CAR INCLUDE GOOD TIRES, DUAL THROTTLE RETURN SPRINGS, A BATTERY TIE-DOWN, RADIATOR OVERFLOW CATCH-CAN, OPERABLE NEUTRAL-SAFETY SWITCH, ALL WHEEL STUDS MUST BE IN GOOD CONDITION, NO MORE THAN 12" OF NEOPRENE HOSE, OPERATING SEAT BELTS, AND A VALID STATE DRIVER'S LICENSE OR NHRA COMPETITION LICENSE IS REQUIRED FOR ALL PARTICIPANTS. DON’T FORGET TO WEAR LONG PANTS, SHOES, AND A SHIRT!

A HELMET IS ONE OF THE FIRST SAFETY ITEMS THAT YOU WILL NEED . A HELMET IS REQUIRED FOR ALL DRIVERS AND PASSENGERS OF ANY VEHICLE DOWN THE ROCKFALLS RACETRACK.. HELMETS THAT MEET NHRA REQUIREMENTS INCLUDE THOSE THAT HAVE A SNELL APPROVAL OF 95,98,2000 AS WELL AS THOSE WITH AN SFI RATING OF 31.1A, 31.2A, 41.1A, OR 41.2A. ( THE ROCKFALLS WEBSITE STATES THAT THEY WILL ACCEPT SNELL M90, M95, SA85, SPECIFICATIONS. IF YOU ARE INVESTING IN A HELMET…. IT WOULD BE BEST TO BUY ONE OF THE ONES FROM THE NHRA RULEBOOK).
IT IS IMPORTANT TO NOTE THAT THE HELMET RATING MUST BE DESIGNATED ON A TAG INSIDE THE HELMET, OR SEWN TO ONE OF THE HELMET STRAPS. THE DESIGNATION STENCILED ON THE EXTERIOR OF THE HELMET IS INSUFFICIENT FOR NHRA TECHNICAL INSPECTION.

ANY CAR WITH A RELOCATED BATTERY MUST BE EQUIPPED WITH A MASTER ELECTRICAL CUTOFF, CAPABLE OF STOPPING ALL ELECTRICAL FUNCTIONS INCLUDING IGNITION (MUST SHUT THE ENGINE OFF, AS WELL AS FUEL PUMPS, ETC.). THE SWITCH MUST BE LOCATED ON THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE, WITH THE "OFF" POSITION CLEARLY MARKED. IF THE SWITCH IS OF A "PUSH / PULL" TYPE, THEN "PUSH" MUST BE THE MOTION THAT SHUTS OFF THE SWITCH, AND PLASTIC OR "KEYED" TYPED SWITCHES ARE PROHIBITED. ALSO, THE BATTERY MUST BE COMPLETELY SEALED FROM THE DRIVER AND/OR DRIVER COMPARTMENT. THIS MEANS A METAL BULKHEAD MUST SEPARATE THE TRUNK FROM THE DRIVER COMPARTMENT, OR THE BATTERY MUST BE LOCATED IN A SEALED, METAL BOX CONSTRUCTED OF MINIMUM .024 INCH STEEL OR .032 INCH ALUMINUM, OR IN AN NHRA ACCEPTED PLASTIC BOX. IN CARS WITH A CONVENTIONAL TRUNK, METAL CAN SIMPLY BE INSTALLED BEHIND THE REAR SEAT AND UNDER THE PACKAGE TRAY TO EFFECTIVELY SEAL THE BATTERY OFF FROM THE DRIVER. IN A HATCHBACK TYPE VEHICLE THE BATTERY BOX IS USUALLY THE EASIEST SOLUTION, SINCE THE ALTERNATIVE IS TO FABRICATE A BULKHEAD WHICH SEALS TO THE HATCH WHEN CLOSED. AT PRESENT, MOROSO IS THE ONLY COMPANY WHICH OFFERS AN NHRA ACCEPTED PLASTIC BATTERY BOX, PART NUMBER 74050.

FYI * The metal battery box is always best for a street-strip car, since you don't have to modify the car to install a firewall/bulkhead. These boxes (you can buy a really slick sealed-&-vented unit from MAS Racing in St. Paul) also come with all the mounting hardware to do the job right. The Moroso plastic box, while NHRA accepted, just looks lame once you see it.

WHEEL STUDS …YOU WILL NEED TO PROVE THAT YOU HAVE AT LEAST “ONE STUD WIDTH” OF ENGAGEMENT OF THE STUD THREADS INTO THE HEX PORTION OF THE LUG NUT. IN OTHER WORDS…. IF YOU HAVE 7/16” STUDS, YOU WILL NEED AT LEAST 7/16” OF THAT STUD ENGAGED THROUGH THE THREADS OF THE HEX PORTION OF THE LUG NUT.. USING “ OPEN ENDED” LUG NUTS IS THE EASIEST WAY FOR THE INSPECTOR TO SEE THIS.
* Wheel studs: The rule, more accurately stated, is that the stud must extend outside the face of the wheel (into the hex portion of the lug nut) an amount at least equal to the stud diameter. Sometimes people think that, because the lug extends into the wheel, all they need is enough stud length to engage the threads on the lug. open-ended lugs are strongly preferred.

Also FYI..
* Fuel in the trunk, however, requires an "airtight" firewall between the trunk & passenger compartment. This means a fuel tank, fuel cell, fuel pumps or fuel filler neck in the trunk.
* Nitrous bottles installed in the passenger compartment require a "blow-down" bypass valve vented to the outside of the car. This applies even if the bottles are in the trunk, unless the airtight firewall is in place. Frankly, it's just a good idea!

THE FOLLOWING IS A LIST OF MAJOR ITEMS THAT ARE REQUIRED AS SPECIFIC ET’S AND SPEEDS. THIS LIST IS A GUIDELINE, AND WE RECOMMEND CONSULTING A CURRENT NHRA RULEBOOK FOR SPECIFIC DETAILS, SPECIFICATIONS, AND DIAGRAMS.

13.49 SECONDS
- DRIVE LINE LOOP WITH SLICKS 13.99 or faster (Driveline loop not required for 11.49 or slower WITH STREET TIRES)
ROLL BAR IN CONVERTIBLES
- SFI SEAT BELTS IN CONVERTIBLES

11.49 SECONDS
- SFI APPROVED JACKET AND ROLL BAR
- SFI APPROVED SEAT BELTS
- SFI FLYWHEEL / CLUTCH / BELLHOUSING. STEEL VALVE STEMS / ARM RESTRAINTS IN (OPEN CARS)

10.99 SECONDS OR SUPER STREET
- SFI TRANSMISSION SHIELD,
OR AT 135 MPH - AFTERMARKET AXLES
- SFI HARMONIC BALANCER
- ROLL CAGE WITH ALTERED FLOOR PANS,
OR 135 MPH - WINDOW NET REQUIRED
- IGNITION CUT-OFF ON ALL BIKES / SNOWMOBILES THAT EXCEED 135 MPH

9.99 SECONDS OR SUPER GAS OR 135 MPH
- NHRA CHASSIS CERTIFICATION
- NHRA COMPETITION LICENSE
- SFI NECK COLLAR
- SFI GLOVES SFI FLEXPLATE / FLEXPLATE SHIELD
150 MPH PARACHUTE

Looks like I might not be able to afford a trip to the track. :(

I had no idea so much was involved. I'm not going to make all kinds of modifications just to run the car once or twice a year. So they check all this stuff even on test and tune nights?

I can't find any rules on the dragstrip's website. http://www.norwalkraceway.com/

I seen a few cars not road worthy let alone track worthy at the track and nothing was said. I guess it all comes down to your safety and the safety of the guy in the next lane.

Most times if there are a lot of cars and you drove it in they pass it. Depends on the track.

well during tech inspect just tell them its a 13-14 sec car, mostly stock.
and that you just want to see what it does. more likely they will let you make a pass

Guess my main issue will be the battery in the trunk. I don't want a cut off switch on back of my car, so I'll have to put it back under the hood.

I'll have to buy a helmet too.

I was planning on trailering the car so I can have slicks on it. I assume that it'll get inspected thoroughly because of this?

For sure you will need a Helmet, dual throttle return springs, the wheel studs and lugnuts need to look good. If you are running slicks they may look for driveshaft saftey loop. Remember that the more stuff that looks right, the less likely that they are too go over everything with a fine tooth comb. You might just get lucky on a test and tune night But then again you might tow all the way there to only be turned away after inspection. I have seen it happen and its a bummer for everyone.. Including the track who Im sure would have liked your money but wont dare let you on the track if you have failed tech. Remember that all of this stuff is there for not only your saftey.. but also the protection of person in the other lane too.

FYI.. This was from my local NHRA track website..

Q But I drive on the street. I don't want a big cut off switch hanging on the back.

A. This solution takes a little work, but it solves the problem. Install the master cutoff inside the vehicle, positioned "sideways" so that the toggle moves forward and back. Drill a hole in the toggle handle, and attach a steel rod that will run out the back of the car, through a hole drilled completely through one tail light assembly. Have a spare tail light assembly on hand, so when you come home from the drags, you remove the rod and put the cherry tail light back in for street cruising. Next time you plan on going to the drag strip, swap lights and reinstall the rod. Since the drilled light is for the strip only, you can also have it marked "PUSH OFF" in big letters so the Tech Inspectors will think you're cool.

I'm good to go on the dual throttle return springs, wheel studs and open lugnuts, and the drive shaft loop. The previous owner has the car setup for the track, all except for the battery in the trunk. He used to run the car, but the track might of not been a NHRA or IHRA track.

The battery switch through the tail light would be a good idea for other cars, but not so sure about a 71 Chevelle. With the lights in the bumper it makes things a little more difficult.

Granted, you do have a 502 in your 71.......it takes ALOT to click off a high 11 sec time. Not saying you won't, but don't expect it your first time out.
I'm trying to get ready this year to run mine. Got the battery switch, getting a better battery box. Need to install metal in my package tray and rear seat due to fuel cell. Already have the 8 point roll bar, need updated SFI belts. Drive shaft loop and blow proof bell has been in. Also have electrical wired to kill when battery is switched off. Fuel system is all braided as well.

Brian

Lots of tracks are more forgiving on the rules during the "Test and Tune" nights where there is no competition going on. Just show up and try to run. Getting kicked off the track cause your car is too fast is cool! At least you get one time slip. But be safe and make sure your car is mechanically sound so you don't hurt yourself or someone else.

Good Luck :thumbsup:

Granted, you do have a 502 in your 71.......it takes ALOT to click off a high 11 sec time. Not saying you won't, but don't expect it your first time out.

I'm not expecting to be a pro the first time out. Hate to admit it, but I've never been behind the wheel on the strip. The previous owner showed me some of his time slips and pics from the track. That's where I got the high 11 sec time estimate.

Don't make a pass on those radial T/A's :)

nice looking 71 :thumbsup: