Building a 383 motor I have gotten allot good feedback on a previous post on this topic. What I have come up with is this combo and would like to here any pros or con with this setup.

Cam: comp magnum 292

Lifters: Rhoads

Pistons: Speed pro H860CP40 10.3c with 64cc heads

Crank: Scat 9-350-3750-6000

Rods: Scat I-Beam 7/16 2-ICR5700-7/16

Heads:AFR 119

Intake: Performer RPM Air-Gap intake

Carb: Speed Demon 750

This motor is going into my 67 Chevelle My objective is 400-450 horse motor car .Would like the cam to have a noticeable lope at idle but have good vacuumed and be drivable.

Ok.... this is only my opinion so take it with a grain of salt. However I have built 3 383's in the last year.

#1 Do NOT use Rhoads lifters... Everyone I have spoken to including guys that build engines for a living do NOT like them. If you get the right cam for your application you won't need their "percieved" vvt benefit.

#2 Heads.. Afr's are great, but you might want to step up to atleast the 195cc version with 68cc chambers. And if you intend to spin it above 5800 rpm you will need a rev kit or a differant valve spring than what the AFR's come with -- otherwise you will have valve float.

#3 Pistons... Speed Pro's are fine, so are JE, just make sure you get a FORGED piston. It is a small increase in money for a better longer lasting and more durable part.

#4 Use a 5.7 in H Beam rod if you intend to internally balance the motor. 6in Rods are more difficult to balance.

#4 Air Gap intake will make nice low and midrange power so that's fine.

#5 A speed demon 750 may be ok, but I would bet a Mighty Demon 650 would make more power and have better throttle responce. (don't use an electric choke) The mighty is a double pumper.

Your horsepower goal is more than achievable with a 383. There are dyno sheets from the mildest of my 383's on my signature. It is the only one I have that uses a HYD cam. It made 325 RWHP after running through a 700R4 and a 9in Ford Rear end. On paper it is about 425HP at the crank.

It was: AFR 195's (68cc), Air Gap intake, MSD Pro Billet HEI, 1:6 Roller Rockers, 5.7in H beam rods, 4330 Forged Crank, Forged Speed Pro Pistons, and a XE 274 Cam (which I would NEVER use again).

The 383 in the car now:
Canfield 220 CNC'd angle plug heads (65cc), Super Victor Intake, Mighty Demon 750, Dale Earnheardt Inc Valvetrain, Crower Billet Solid Roller Cam, Forged JE pistons (11.2:1), 5.7 H-beam rods, and a 4330 forged Ohio Crankshaft Crank. I will dyno the car this Friday and post the results but I expect to have around 585 HP at the crank. (redline of 7500 rpm)

That is my 2C
Steve

Almost forgot.... don't forget that your stall speed, gear ratio, and tire height will all play a role in how your car performs and what manners it has.

With the 425 Hp motor I used a 3000 lock-up converter. If you are in a Th 350/400 then a 3000 stall will give you a nice launch with a 26 tire and 3:73 gears. With a taller tire you can afford a little more gear like 4:11's.

My current motor uses a 4500 lock-up converter with 3:89 gears and a 28in tall slick. (I have a transbrake transmission with a full spool in the rear now)

So keep in mind there is much more to perforance than JUST the motor.

Ok.... this is only my opinion so take it with a grain of salt. However I have built 3 383's in the last year.

#1 Do NOT use Rhoads lifters... Everyone I have spoken to including guys that build engines for a living do NOT like them. If you get the right cam for your application you won't need their "percieved" vvt benefit.

#2 Heads.. Afr's are great, but you might want to step up to atleast the 195cc version with 68cc chambers. And if you intend to spin it above 5800 rpm you will need a rev kit or a differant valve spring than what the AFR's come with -- otherwise you will have valve float.

#3 Pistons... Speed Pro's are fine, so are JE, just make sure you get a FORGED piston. It is a small increase in money for a better longer lasting and more durable part.

#4 Use a 5.7 in H Beam rod if you intend to internally balance the motor. 6in Rods are more difficult to balance.

#4 Air Gap intake will make nice low and midrange power so that's fine.

#5 A speed demon 750 may be ok, but I would bet a Mighty Demon 650 would make more power and have better throttle responce. (don't use an electric choke) The mighty is a double pumper.

Your horsepower goal is more than achievable with a 383. There are dyno sheets from the mildest of my 383's on my signature. It is the only one I have that uses a HYD cam. It made 325 RWHP after running through a 700R4 and a 9in Ford Rear end. On paper it is about 425HP at the crank.

It was: AFR 195's (68cc), Air Gap intake, MSD Pro Billet HEI, 1:6 Roller Rockers, 5.7in H beam rods, 4330 Forged Crank, Forged Speed Pro Pistons, and a XE 274 Cam (which I would NEVER use again).

The 383 in the car now:
Canfield 220 CNC'd angle plug heads (65cc), Super Victor Intake, Mighty Demon 750, Dale Earnheardt Inc Valvetrain, Crower Billet Solid Roller Cam, Forged JE pistons (11.2:1), 5.7 H-beam rods, and a 4330 forged Ohio Crankshaft Crank. I will dyno the car this Friday and post the results but I expect to have around 585 HP at the crank. (redline of 7500 rpm)

That is my 2C
Steve

Almost forgot.... don't forget that your stall speed, gear ratio, and tire height will all play a role in how your car performs and what manners it has.

With the 425 Hp motor I used a 3000 lock-up converter. If you are in a Th 350/400 then a 3000 stall will give you a nice launch with a 26 tire and 3:73 gears. With a taller tire you can afford a little more gear like 4:11's.

My current motor uses a 4500 lock-up converter with 3:89 gears and a 28in tall slick. (I have a transbrake transmission with a full spool in the rear now)

So keep in mind there is much more to perforance than JUST the motor.

What valve train are you using from DEI as my partner that worked for me for 12 years works in there engine shop and last I new they are using the SB2 type heads and the valve train they use won't fit a Canfield head unless its old old inventory.

Here is a link to an engine we built for a customer last fall and this was built for a daily driver.
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106715&highlight=DYNO

Ok.... this is only my opinion so take it with a grain of salt. However I have built 3 383's in the last year.

#1 Do NOT use Rhoads lifters... Everyone I have spoken to including guys that build engines for a living do NOT like them. If you get the right cam for your application you won't need their "percieved" vvt benefit.

#2 Heads.. Afr's are great, but you might want to step up to atleast the 195cc version with 68cc chambers. And if you intend to spin it above 5800 rpm you will need a rev kit or a differant valve spring than what the AFR's come with -- otherwise you will have valve float.

#3 Pistons... Speed Pro's are fine, so are JE, just make sure you get a FORGED piston. It is a small increase in money for a better longer lasting and more durable part.

#4 Use a 5.7 in H Beam rod if you intend to internally balance the motor. 6in Rods are more difficult to balance.

#4 Air Gap intake will make nice low and midrange power so that's fine.

#5 A speed demon 750 may be ok, but I would bet a Mighty Demon 650 would make more power and have better throttle responce. (don't use an electric choke) The mighty is a double pumper.

Your horsepower goal is more than achievable with a 383. There are dyno sheets from the mildest of my 383's on my signature. It is the only one I have that uses a HYD cam. It made 325 RWHP after running through a 700R4 and a 9in Ford Rear end. On paper it is about 425HP at the crank.

It was: AFR 195's (68cc), Air Gap intake, MSD Pro Billet HEI, 1:6 Roller Rockers, 5.7in H beam rods, 4330 Forged Crank, Forged Speed Pro Pistons, and a XE 274 Cam (which I would NEVER use again).

The 383 in the car now:
Canfield 220 CNC'd angle plug heads (65cc), Super Victor Intake, Mighty Demon 750, Dale Earnheardt Inc Valvetrain, Crower Billet Solid Roller Cam, Forged JE pistons (11.2:1), 5.7 H-beam rods, and a 4330 forged Ohio Crankshaft Crank. I will dyno the car this Friday and post the results but I expect to have around 585 HP at the crank. (redline of 7500 rpm)

That is my 2C
Steve

Almost forgot.... don't forget that your stall speed, gear ratio, and tire height will all play a role in how your car performs and what manners it has.

With the 425 Hp motor I used a 3000 lock-up converter. If you are in a Th 350/400 then a 3000 stall will give you a nice launch with a 26 tire and 3:73 gears. With a taller tire you can afford a little more gear like 4:11's.

My current motor uses a 4500 lock-up converter with 3:89 gears and a 28in tall slick. (I have a transbrake transmission with a full spool in the rear now)

So keep in mind there is much more to perforance than JUST the motor.
=
Just one note, the 6" rod engine is the easier one to internal balance, not the 5.7 one:)
All 6" assemblies will internal balance.
Some but not all 5.7 ones will.

What valve train are you using from DEI as my partner that worked for me for 12 years works in there engine shop and last I new they are using the SB2 type heads and the valve train they use won't fit a Canfield head unless its old old inventory.
I get valve springs, locks and retainers from them... and I realize they are using sb2 stuff. The engine shop I use has one of Truex's old motors in it at the moment.

Steve

I get valve springs, locks and retainers from them... and I realize they are using sb2 stuff. The engine shop I use has one of Truex's old motors in it at the moment.

Steve

Steve unless you are using valves with around 6MM stems it would be the only way you could use there locks and the springs are for around 750 lift and with the installed height they use you would have to run a really long valve.
Carl

You are right... and I do... along with Yella Terra Platnium Race Rockers