I just buffed out some "gritty stuff" left on my BC/CC paint after the painter recleared the doors. I used 3M rubbing compound with a buffer. And then hand waxed it with some Carnuba(sp) cleaner wax. She ended up real smooth but the shine is somewhat "milky" or dull compared to the freshly cleared doors.

What did I do wrong? Not clean it good enough before rubbing out? After?

How do I get the crisp "mirror-like" shine back? Can I strip it off and redo with just the hand wax? I need help guys, this looks bad from the driver's seat...

Thanks,

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Tommy B.
71-72 Malibu (http://www.geocities.com/beldarr/Chevelle.htm)
"I'm high all right, but on the real stuff
High octane gasoline
A clean windshield
And a shoe shine"

The normal order of buffing is to use the rubbing compound, then a glaze such as 3-M Finess-it, followed by a final swirl remover. 3-M has one that is a charcoal gray color, but I can't remember the name/part #. On cured paint, you could then wax it.

From your description, you skipped from the compound stage to the wax stage. That would explain the dullness.

vettefella got it, but theres one thing to remember. Don't put wax on a fresh paint. It can do some strange things since the paint is still curing. Wait at least a month or 2 before waxing.

I think Vettefella has it.

I used 3M rubbing compound and it turned out so slick I waxed it. Got a sorta hazy shine. I then tried to use the finishing glaze and it didn't help the shine. Now I have three different sections of the hood done and all are hazy. The glaze section is the best, but I can't seem the bring the gloss out, it just shines from the smoothness http://www.chevelles.com/forum/frown.gif

I am really not comfortable doing this. The last Velle I burned the hood beyond repair. On this one I already sanded thru the clear trying to get it flat (last year). And now the rest of the car, which was great, is not.

The wife says I have too heavy of a hand http://www.chevelles.com/forum/wink.gif She says I'm not even allowed to sand out the fisheye in the new clear. That I'm gonna have to live with I guess. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/wink.gif

Maybe it's time for a professional before I buff a hood scoop hole fight in the middle of this hood. I am just so disappointed that I can't get the hang of this.

Thanks for the tips guys, but I don't know it I have the courage left...

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Tommy B.
71-72 Malibu (http://www.geocities.com/beldarr/Chevelle.htm)
"I'm high all right, but on the real stuff
High octane gasoline
A clean windshield
And a shoe shine"

buffing like anything elce , just takes Practice. most guys have old stuff laying around. doors hoods ect. you can practice you buffing on these no mater what the paint type, lacquer,enamel or the new urethanes systems.
as with paint products, buffing& finishing have there own separate systems. 3-M and Maquiere just to name a few.

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Wayne
ACES# 1556
TCG # 186

Maybe I can help (I have a weekend detailing biz) If i were you i would run out and get the porter cable 7336 which is a DA sander (best deal you will find is at Lowes its $109 i think) then order up the assortment of pads with the Velcro backing from www.properautocare.com. (http://www.properautocare.com.) the pad kit is like $45-50 bucks and it comes with everything you need pad wise plus get the one with the Velcro plate. You do not have to worry about burning the paint with this unit its VERY VERY safe, but yet its powerful enough that I have buffed out panels after colorsanding with the "cutting" pad and some FI2 (3m). FI2 is good stuff but it should only be used by machine, it has abrasives\ that break down with friction and heat into finer and finer polish until it buffs the stuff (scratches) away, by you using it by hand on your car, the abrasives have not broken down and you have actually dulled your paint out. Get the PC, strap on the yellow pad from CMA (www.properautocare.com) put a small line of FI2 on the pad, prime the panel with the compound by spreading the FI2 on the panel before turning on the machine so you don't sling it, start the PC on about 4 speed, start working in the FI2, after you get it worked around pretty good, kick the machine to full blast and work the compound in until it almost buffs itself off and disappears, wipe the panels clean, enjoy your crystal clear deep shine. but wait your not done yet, get out your white polishing pad you got in the kit, squirt on some Imperial hand glaze, do the same thing you did with it that you did with the FI2. When your done with that by hand put on some high quality carnuba wax such as mothers (about the best your gonna get over the counter) sit back have a beer, your car should look bitchin. any questions?

Check out http://www.meguiars.com
There's a lot of great information.