What is the best way to remove rust and clean the frame on my 67 Chevelle for a frame off restoration? This is my first time so be gentle!

Totally strip it and have it blasted. It's worth the money not to have to do that by hand.

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Doug, Chevl71
Team Chevelle member #625
Gateway Area Chevelle Club member CM028

chevl71 homepage (http://www.chevl71.homestead.com/chevl71homepage.html)

If you have an air compressor, buy a abrasive blaster from HarborFreight.com. I paid $80.00 for one and it was the best tool I have ever bought. You can buy 30 grit screened sand at Home Depot for about $5.00 a 90 pound bag.

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Redrum (or Mike)
68 Corvette - 383 CI 427 HP
69 SS Chevelle being updated to Pro-Touring
97 Z-28

I would have to agree with Redrum except I would go with regular playsand from Homedepot and pour it into the blaster through a screen, the stuff works great I've used it on frames, rims, pullys, aframes, etc.

Mike, I took mine ti Reddi-Strip and had it dipped. They got all of the crap off, even in places you could not get to with blasting. They then coated the whole thing in a rust inhibator. I was very happy with the job, I think it cost around 150.



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Larry
TC # 1000
66 Malibu - under reconstruction
Off The Frame (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/lmacdonald1.jpg)

There is a Redi Strip in Roselle, Il. They charged me $400 to chemically strip the bare frame. They can also sandblast it, I was quoted $200 for that.

I jst had to go and pull my invoice fron Redi Strip -Phoenix.

Frame - $225.
2 upper and 2 lower A Arms $70.
2 Coil springs $12
1 trans cross memeber $15



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Larry
TC # 1000
66 Malibu - under reconstruction
Off The Frame (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/lmacdonald1.jpg)

Redrum, chevy302DZ,

I'm in the process of stripping my frame also. I bought the harbor sand blaster. the one they always have on sale for $79.99. I tried the play ground sand with all nozzle sizes and it worked great. At 7:00PM at night it looked like a torch! but clogged the nozzle in about 2 secs( all sizes). I thought about straining but wasn't sure. I then bought this stuff called Garnet (80 grit) that was $29.00 a bag(50 lbs). it worked but is to expensive. I am now getting ready to try this other stuff called "clean blast" 30/60 grit that is suppose to be more friendly to you lungs. It was cheap! a couple more bucks than sand($10 for 100 lbs) and I think they said was made from copper. I'm getting ready to try that out tomorrow with the .100 nozzle but I like the idea of straining cheap play ground sand.

What type of a strainer do you use?
What size air compressor do you have? and what size nozzle do you use with it?

I have a 30 gallon 5 hp with 6 cfm according to the sand blaster directions I can use the .100 nozzle only.

What about safty? when i went to purchase sand at first. they said they don't sell sand any more because the owner had part of his lung removed from blasting with sand. It;s called sylcoses. what type of safty equipment do you use?

thanks
hilljack

I have the same blaster you have and the 30 grit sand from Home Depot will not clog the smallest nozzel. I use a high quality dust mask to sand with a hood tucked in my shirt and I don't have to pull any dust boogers out of my nose when I finish. You will not need to filter the 30 grit sand and it wont pit like play sand does as it is a consistent size.

I have the same size compressor as you have.
I intend to try using this setup to strip my entire car but I will test on a fender that already has some bondo in it. Most people state abrasive blasting distorts the body from heat but with this small blaster I can't see how any heat would be generated to warp the metal. It can't hit the metal any harder than a DA air sander so I don't get how it could cause waves in the body panels? I hope I'm right as my car is black and super straight now!

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Redrum (or Mike)
68 Corvette - 383 CI 427 HP
69 SS Chevelle being updated to Pro-Touring
97 Z-28

While we are on the subject of media-blasting the body panels with sand I am wondering about alternatives.

I have heard such materials as baking soda,
walnut shells, and a plastic of some sort can be used. If so could I just go to the grocery store and pick up a bag of baking soda or is there some sort of material prep needed?

Are these claims true? Supposidly these materials are less damaging than sand.

I have used the box that my compressor came in as a sand-blasting box. I cut a square hole in the front and attached a thick glass plate and in the rear a hole for an exhaust fan. When I'm finished it all folds flat and hides away. It's good for smaller pieces like A-frames and valve covers, etc...

I have blasted my frame, but it was a nasty and dirty job from underneath, and on my back. I also made a hood and wore goggles and a resporator. Can't do that on a hot summer day.

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Joe G.
ChicagoChevelle68
Any car past 1972 is just simply transportation, really!

http://pages.about.com/chicagochevelle68/Welcome.html
josephguzman@yahoo.com (http://josephguzman@yahoo.com)
ICQ# 64752614

I'm usually stubborn and blast and strip all my own stuff. On my last project (a '53 Ford truck with all GM running gear) I had the cab and doors media blasted. I'm not sure what the media was, but they recycle it so I think it's a fine metal powder or something (?).

It was great! $200 for the cab and doors (inside and out). No mess, it was done in a few days and they really cleaned it out well. There was no dust or sand anywhere. I did the body work that same weekend and sprayed DP40/401 sealer on it. Done! The bondo really feathers well into the blasted metal and I found that hitting the metal with 220 by hand made a super nice surface for sealing/priming.

Highly recommended.

Dennis

WOAH!!! Way off on every blasting post reply I have read here! Play sand? 30 grit? What the heck are you guys telling this person? Trying to ruin their newly purchased blasters? WHEN SAND BLASTING YOU USE SILICA SAND!!! It is about $2.50 per 50lb bag. Do not re-use. Play sand is way too soft to be very effective. I did the frame off and sand blasted the under body then coated with por 15. The frame is a little tougher to blast so I sent it out to be done. I had it sand blasted and frame rails welded for $160. Well worth the cost to avoid the pain. Suggestion: If you decide to have it powdercoated (turns out beautiful btw) make sure to grind any weld spatter off before taking it in because they won't unless you ask them too and subsequently pay them extra.

30 grit silica sand..... Home Depot at about $5.00 a 90 pound sack. Correct stuff for a abrasive blaster.

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Redrum (or Mike)
68 Corvette - 383 CI 427 HP
69 SS Chevelle being updated to Pro-Touring
97 Z-28

The only problem with using silica is the threat of silicosis. A lung disease caused by inhaling silica dust. Bad stuff boys!! I use 80 grit garnet, $20/90lb bag.

I have the harborfreight sand blaster and used it for the tight spots on my frame. I actually found it easier and less messy to to use a knotted wire cup in my 4" grinder. I also used the grinder with a flat wire brush in some places. It knocks it down to bare metal very quickly. Maybe with a big honkin compressor I would have sandblasted everything though.

Doug

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 454Beaumont:
While we are on the subject of media-blasting the body panels with sand I am wondering about alternatives.

I have heard such materials as baking soda,
walnut shells, and a plastic of some sort can be used. If so could I just go to the grocery store and pick up a bag of baking soda or is there some sort of material prep needed?

Are these claims true? Supposidly these materials are less damaging than sand.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I had my 67 stripped by a shop in Chattanooga
called Advanced Coating Removal. They used a plastic media. It does a great job of removing paint and want warp your body panels. It will, however, rough up any chrome you leave on the car. It doesn't do anything for rust.
I've seen the soda blasting done on several cars. It also does a good job of removing paint and doesn't semm to hurt the chrome. In fact it seems to make the chrome look better. It seems to leave a little residue on the body that need a good cleaning before any paint is applied.