I'm planning on buying a stationary air compressor for my shop. To start with I'll just be using it for tools, but suspect that eventually I'll try my hand at painting. Question: is there a problem with using an oil lube compressor for painting? I understand that the oil lube units are quieter and maybe will last longer, but don't want to get one if it can put oil into the air.

Thanks!
Greg



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My 68 El Camino (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/greg_pelcamino01.jpg) with 307 and powerglide, and my '66 Chevelle SS (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/greg_pchevelle01.jpg) with 396/360 and M-20. In 1968, when I was 21 and a student at Washington State University, I got my first (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/greg_pchevelle21.jpg) '66 SS. Thirty years later, I got my second (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/greg_pchevelle52.jpg) '66 SS. Note that both Chevelles are in the same location.

Yes, any oil lubed compressor puts out small amounts of oil. However, with any compressor, you must have at least one water trap in the line for painting. The water trap also catches the oil.

A major drawback to the oil-less compressors is that their CFM output compared to the oil lubed models of the same size is only about 60%. Shop carefully so that you will get want you want and need.

When you say "oil-less" compressor , I assume you are talking about the Sears Craftsman Oilless compressors. If so....Dont even consider one.

Experience talks here.....the Craftsman Oilless compressors will not handle Paint & Body work for long. I replaced a 13 year old Ingersoll-Rand with the Sears Oilless a couple of years ago.....and it did a good job.....for about 9-10 months. Then it broke one of the connecting rods and completely trashed a piston (if you could call it that) and a cylinder. As I tore into it to survey the damage I was totally shocked at the CHEAPNESS of the way the whole setup was made.....from the flimsy, potmetal connecting rod, to the silly, sheetmetal piston...it was all rinky-dink. I mean heck...the cylinder was even replaceable....meaning the manufacturer knew it was going to be a frequently problem causing item.
I bought all new parts and put her back together.....few months down the road she came right back apart.
Go with a minimum 5-horse / 60-gal. tank OIL compressor like you can pick up at Lowe's or Home Depot for around $400.

MOST EVERY body shop uses an oil-lube compressor. You will need proper filtration no matter which compressor you go with...even the oil-less will produce water in the air lines.

Shannon

Thanks for the input guys. So far I've looked at coulple of 60 gal oil lubricated units: a 6.5 HP Husky (Campbell Hausfeld) at Home Depot and a 7 HP Porter Cable at Lowes. Also an 80 gal, 7 HP, 2-stage Porter Cable. Porter Cable makes oilless units in smaller sizes.

Greg

[This message has been edited by Greg P (edited 05-28-2002).]

I got mine from Northern Tools.80 gal 17.5 cfm unit for 900.I like it so far and I don't have to worry about it coming apart.It's actually quieter than the Campbell Hausfeld 5 hp-60 gal unit I replaced,after it broke the rod.It's the big red one in the catalog.

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John 67ss
ACES #2887
Team Chevelle Gold #127

If you will be working in your shop much, get the 80 gal. you wont be sorry (except sorry you didn't get the 100 gal. tank) been using my Ingersol-Rand T-20 (80 gal. 5HP 18.9 CFM at 175 PSI.) for over ten years now with out a problem.

Bigger is better here too.

Oilless are junk except for the occasional user who want's to blow up a tire.

Don't just lok at a big 2-stage compressor, buy it.

Peter

I have a Craftsman Oiless compressor and agree with the statements above except for volume. My compressor is rated at 15cfm @40psi and about 12cfm @ 90psi. These ratings were much higher than the best 7hp model I recently saw at Home Depot.

I am in the midst of a paint and body redo on my Chevelle and over the last two weeks have had tons of problems with the compressor. First a discharge seal blew out. This was followed by a valve that broke and requires the whole "head" to be replaced. After doing this I found that part of the "head" valve damaged the check valve as well as a valve at the switch. In all it's costing quite a bit of money and time. I would not buy this "consumer" grade product again.

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1968 Chevelle SS396 - Yellow 4 speed, air, factory Buick interior
1998 Camaro Z28 - 6 speed
1999 Nissan Maxima SE - 5 speed
2000 Passat Wagon - 5 speed tip

I have an older craftsman 5hp oil type compressor. It works decently. My dad has a 6hp oilless. It is much noisier! I have run mine for hours on end without problems. The oilless just looks to flimsy for that.

Gary brings up an interesting point about the 2-stage compressors I hadn't thought of. Reliability. They are definately more complex inside than the standard 2 piston single stage pump.

I went with a single stage 60 gallon upright. I've run it a few times so long that I couldn't touch the tank (that's any part of the tank!). It's still fine and I expect it to last for some time yet. I found a D/A sander with 40 grit works great for sanding house siding (well actually the garage) when repainting. Takes the peeling crap right off.

Peter