I have a 67 chevelle that was once running. The car has been sitting with no motor for 6 years, now I'm ready to get it running again. I put in a used 350 with points distributor. my starter is a CSI mini starter that was new 6 years ago. My queston is, what wire do i use for my "key on wire" to give the coil its run voltage,and what wire do i use for starting voltage? I think the original run wire would have came from the starter, but a lot of the original wiring is missing. I have a crank 12V wire that i am running the starter with, I think its supposed to be originally purple, but it looks brown to me, its old and dirty looking. Is this the same wire that I use to give my coil 12Volts crank? The starter only has 2 terminals, one for batt. power and one spade for ignition, not three terminals like the stock configuration. Any help would be greatly appreciated! thanks, Zach

Originally the "key on wire" for the coil comes from the firewall bulkhead, usually a black wire with a cloth covering. This wire reduced the voltage while the engine is running. Originally, the starter supplied voltage to the coil during cranking from the starter "R" terminal. Since your CSI mini starter doesn't have that terminal, you could use a standard 30 amp relay do do the same thing, just wire it like this
Battery with in-line fuse to #30
Coil positive to #87
Run a extra wire from the purple wire to 86#
Run a ground wire to #85
If you need more help, post back





http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/images/1098relay.jpg

You can also run a wire back from the S terminal to replace the yellow wire that use to come from the R terminal. You need to place a diode in the circuit so it supplies 12v to the ign when crancking but won't feed back from the coil to the starter once the engine is running. Look at some of the suppliers of these mini starters, they sell the diode and wire to do this.

EDIT: Here is a link to a post discussing it. http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54624&highlight=diode

hey thanks a lot for the help guys, although with the relay, i understand its use for a fan or something, but not exactly the purpose of it for this application, this is the first time I have ever done anything with the cars electrical system, like hooking up things from scratch when half of the needed wires are missing. sorry about the length of time for the reply.

Relays are used for many different things, mostly to be able to control a higher amprege load from a remote source using much smaller control wire.

In this case I think it would be used in lieu of a diode connected to the starter's "S" terminal to send 12 volts only during "start cranking".

ok, I think Im starting to get it figured out, Im working in the driveway so I have to wait until this cold spell lets up. What are the advantages of running a relay as opposed to a diode wire? Another question, for my resisted wire to the coil, the original is gone, so am i correct in running a wire from 12v "run" or "key on" spot on the fuse box to the coil? should i use a resistance wire or a ballast resistor? Thanks for all of the help,

If the resistive wire is gone like you say you will need a ballast resister in series with the power wire from the IGN terminal with the old points style distributor.

A diode is probably more simple to some people for the bypass circuit but the relay option is fairly easy to do too.

I think i will go with the relay, is anyone out there willing to post a picture or maybe a sketch of the fuse panel? all the white lettering on mine is worn off. I am going to use a meter to find the IGN terminal, but I want to be sure I get the right one

Dean; whats up with this 5 degree crap after this 55 degree winter? i guess its finally catching up with us, Im in KC MO

Crazy midwest weather, it sure has been bad for furnace repair business lately :(
Where bouts in KC?
If you need help with the relay wiring just holler.

Here is one for a 70.
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/DSC00923.JPG

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/2779/bypassrelay20ve.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

hey thanks alot for the diagram, this is exactly what Ive been needin',

its not exactly the same, but itll definetely get me in the ballpark, thanks for the help! mine was pretty corroded, i used a rifle bore brush to clean the contacts, worked great., thats probably what happened to the lettering

hey thanks alot for the diagram, this is exactly what Ive been needin',

Greg told us how to hook it up, I just drew it.