i 've put a 100 amp 1 wire alt on my new bbc in my 66. getting really close to firing it up for the first time. my ? is. can i just run the wire to the battery for charging and hook up the old lead to the regulator? or do i have to lose the regulator all together? last thing i want is to shut it down on the first start. anyone know of a post that explains this for a wiring novice? i 've asked about conversions before,but can't find this info now. thanks grovey

Try here....
http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ftecref14.html

thanks i was not sure that applied to me ,but i do have the two prongs on my alt.

Very simple. Unplug the voltage regulator and tape up the plug going to the regulator. You can now tuck away the plug under the driver side fender and out of the way. Run a single wire from the alternator post to the big starter lug where the positive battery cable hooks up. The wire needs to be about 4 gauge or so.

On my Chevelle I used a factory replacement starter solenoid harness (solenoid to starter wire) from a Ford Expedition. I think it measured 44" long and came with nice heavy duty copper lugs at either end that fit perfect. It was also pre covered in black convolute tubing. I found this part hanging on the wall at Auto Zone.

This makes for a very clean install. Your dash mounted gauge or light will not be functional after this modification.

Good Luck! :D

#4 wire Chris?
I've never done a one wire alternator so I really have no idea but that just seems awful big.

Pushing upwards of 75 amps (most newer Delco alternators are at least that much) over a distance of somewhere around 3-4 feet requires at least 4ga with some form of circut protection.

hey chris, so i can get rid of the regulator all together? are you saying that i don't need to run a wire from the hot alt post to the battery, just to the hot on the starter? also i guess i need to put my original wires that went to my battery hot post back on to correct?

Pushing upwards of 75 amps (most newer Delco alternators are at least that much) over a distance of somewhere around 3-4 feet requires at least 4ga with some form of circut protection.

Good to know if I ever do get involved with a "one wire" :thumbsup:

Where is all that current going?
Seems like that much would overheat the battery.

Dean,

I think they are capable of the amperage, but only output what is needed at any particular time.



Rocky

The amperage is going back to the battery which is in turn supplying it to all the nesessary components. I checked mine not long ago to deteremine my needs; 25 amps to run the car alone witht he electronic ignition and battery recharge after cranking, 13 amps for the electronic cooling fan, 9 amps for the HVAC blower, 6 amps when the wipers kick on, 9 amps for all the lights to run. 62 amps total when everything is fired up and rolling down the highway, granted after awhile the battery would be recharged and demand would drop off to ~50 amps or so. Keep in mind I don't have a dash (no cluster to power up), no radio, no amps, no running lights.etc...

The amperage is going back to the battery which is in turn supplying it to all the nesessary components. I checked mine not long ago to deteremine my needs; 25 amps to run the car alone witht he electronic ignition and battery recharge after cranking, 13 amps for the electronic cooling fan, 9 amps for the HVAC blower, 6 amps when the wipers kick on, 9 amps for all the lights to run. 62 amps total when everything is fired up and rolling down the highway, granted after awhile the battery would be recharged and demand would drop off to ~50 amps or so. Keep in mind I don't have a dash (no cluster to power up), no radio, no amps, no running lights.etc...

Dennis. Your electric cooling fan is drawing 13amps? I would have figured it takes a lot more then that for that fan alone.

It all adds up doesn't it, I had no idea that an alternator would ever be putting out 75 amps but with everything turned on and running at full capacity and a low battery too I guess it might then.

Think I'll check mine now that you sparked my interest. (my colant fan draws zero cause it's not electric.) :)

Another thing I'm curious about is why anyone would ever want to run a "one wire" alternator with it's disadvantages.
I mean, Is there some big advantage of a one wire over a regular alternator?

Copper wire ampacity table

Ampacities of copper wire, in free air at 30o C:

Size Current Rating Current Rating Current Rating
AWG @ 60 degrees C @ 75 degrees C @ 90 degrees C
================================================== ======
20 -------- *9 ----------------------------- *12.5
18 -------- *13 ------------------------------ 18
16 -------- *18 ------------------------------ 24
14 --------- 25 ------------- 30 ------------- 35
12 --------- 30 ------------- 35 ------------- 40
10 --------- 40 ------------- 50 ------------- 55
8 ---------- 60 ------------- 70 ------------- 80
6 ---------- 80 ------------- 95 ------------ 105
4 --------- 105 ------------ 125 ------------ 140
2 --------- 140 ------------ 170 ------------ 190
1 --------- 165 ------------ 195 ------------ 220
1/0 ------- 195 ------------ 230 ------------ 260
2/0 ------- 225 ------------ 265 ------------ 300
3/0 ------- 260 ------------ 310 ------------ 350
4/0 ------- 300 ------------ 360 ------------ 405

Copper wire ampacity table

Ampacities of copper wire, in free air at 30o C:


So #8 is good for 80 amps @ 194° Fahrenheit
@ 12 volts?
Wonder how hot it gets under the hood?

I picked 8 because it's easy to remember 8@80

Amps are amps whether it's 12v or 100v.

Here's another site with some more info and a nice voltage drop calculator.

http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

Dennis. Your electric cooling fan is drawing 13amps? I would have figured it takes a lot more then that for that fan alone.
Yeah, its only a little Flex-a-lite fan.

Ok guys here is my predicament.......

I have a new 355 installed on my 64 SS. I have a new 63amp Ext reg Alternator from Summit, I added an HEI distributor/ Custom autosound Radio.


I am not getting my battery voltage to rise at the battery while at idle with all accessories turned off.
At 2000rpms, battery voltage rises and battery seems to charge with all accessories off or just the radio on.
At 2000rpms, Battery voltage drops rapidly when lights or wipers are on.
At 3000rpms while driving, I can turn on radio and wipers with a very slow drop in battery voltage. No lights can be turned on.

I was wondering if this could be an amperage problem. And do you think going to an 100amp Ext Reg Alternator would cure this?????

Sean, I'm running the original 61 amp alternator on my Camaro. I use a Wells VR715 electronic replacement regulator (Autozone, $15, directly replces the old reg, highly recommended!) My voltmeter is welded to 14 volts, all the time, even idling with the lights on. It'll tic a lil with the turn signals. Accessories are as stock except for a 600 watt stereo and msd distributor.

You might start checking and cleaning connections, especially at the horn relay and the regulator connector.

Sorry guys for not getting back to yall.

Questions:

Grovey, Yes you can do away with the voltage regulator with the 1-wire unit. Makes for a clean install. BUT, be aware that the gauge/idiot light does not work after this mod. If you want to monitor the charging, add a volt meter.

Sean, I have played with all kinds of alternators and I have come to the opinion that the high output 1-wire unit is the best for me. JMO. It is easy to install, easy to rewire and works great.

Feel free to PM me if needed or drop an email. I will help as much as I can. :D

Motorhead,

I am trying to avoid cutting up the new wiring harness I just installed. That will be the last ditch effort to cure this problem thanks for help. If I have any more questions, I will be sure to look for you.

I am not getting my battery voltage to rise at the battery while at idle with all accessories turned off.
At 2000rpms, battery voltage rises and battery seems to charge with all accessories off or just the radio on.
At 2000rpms, Battery voltage drops rapidly when lights or wipers are on.
At 3000rpms while driving, I can turn on radio and wipers with a very slow drop in battery voltage. No lights can be turned on.

I was wondering if this could be an amperage problem. And do you think going to an 100amp Ext Reg Alternator would cure this?????
Are you using any type of power pulleys on the crank or the alternator? If so the alternator isn't spinning fast enough to produce good output, 63amps is the max output, it is much lower at slower speeds. see link
http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/power_pulleys.html
The battery is not charging anytime the voltage drops.
I had a 100amp Summit alternator, with the factory SHP alternator pulley it would not charge at idle. As for replacing it, go with a internally regulated alternator. Very easy to do. Post back if you need more help.

Hey undee,

I bought an MSD pulley that was about .5 inch smaller than what I had. It seems to have allowed the battery voltage to rise slowly at idle with the radio on. But with the lights or wipers it still drops. Also, I have seen now that my voltage doesn't seem to go up as much as it used to when I'm moving. I am going to try to charge the Optima battery fully before I try to check it again. Thanks for the link to powermaster.

Sean,

If you decide to buy an alternator try a 160 Amp 1-wire from these guys:

http://stores.ebay.com/Motor-City-Reman

Sam is a great guy and can work with your needs. I have bought many straters and alternators from him. :thumbsup:

Sean
If you have a new harness why not unpug the regulator make a jumper should be the blue and brown wires, go get yourself a cs130 alt. and all you need to ad is a 10ga wire from the alt to the horn relay.
This for me runs alot better ,had the SI alt and the one wires get realy hot. I went to Mad,s websight after finishing my setup compaired them to my one wire install to the new setup and well I run not 13.5 not 14 but 14.5 to 14.7 at the dash and the headlights 13.5 and it makes a big difference at night.

Hey 69SSRat,

Thanks I will look into that if I can't figure this out soon. Thanks for the info.

Hey guys.....thanks for all the help. I tried everything.

Took a volt meter and my factory wiring manual and rung out all the lines...no grounds.

Changed the wiring harnesses.....nothing.

So I went with a 100amp PowerMaster 1-wire setup.....works great everything electrical on at idle runs at 14.2 volts.