Im having a really hard time getting my wheelwells to line up evenly on both sides relative to the trunk pan. What could be some of the causes to this. It seems like one of the wheelwells sits 1/4 inch higher than the other it doesnt make sence.

This is a picture i found of a chevelle and i highlighted the area of concern. On my car the passsenger side is sitting about 1/4 inch or so higher than on the driver side. The trunk pan on the driver side sits just below the horizonal line on the wheelwell but on the pasenger side the wheelwell sits about 1/4 higher. im confused????

could it be bushings? from the rear seat pan back are all new bushings.

should i just weld the pan to the inner in the right spot and then let the body settle down back onto the bushings? (screw inners into place, screw trunk pan where it "SHOULD" be and then let it settle back down)

http://home.earthlink.net/~baygentst/images/69Chevelle.JPG

any ideas?

Are you using an aftermarket 2 or 3 piece trunk pan set to replace the one you removed?
Is the truck pan still in the car and you are replacing the wheel wells?
Wherever you weld your pieces is where they are going to stay, welded steel rarely “settles”

Did you lift the car off the frame with the truck pan removed? (Please answer NO here)
The aftermarket truck pans come up shy in the back..

http://members.cox.net/renslove70ss/images/2/mvc-002f.jpg

Assuming you have not cut yours short you should be able to but them up or overlap them. If you overlap them put the new on top. Using the remaining part of the truck pan should be a good starting reference point to get everything lined up.

No i never removed the car off the frame with the body cut up. I am using a 3 piece replacement pan and new innner outter wheelwells on both sides also i put in a new rear seat pan and the axle pan i got from someobody and its overlapping about 3/4 - 1 inch the trouble is the pan that goes over the axle isint welded in yet or anything so it makes fitting all this very difficult. Im a novice at this and i made the mistake of cutting all the old metal out first so im having a pretty bad time lining everything up still. live and learn.

but it seems like where the inner wheelwell welds to the divider theres to much of a gap. if i raise the inner well up more to make it fit then to the divider then the horizontal line in the inner wheelwell is too high relative to the axle pan.

start screwing the panels together with self tapping screws, They may pull together.

If you are talking about the gap between the inter section of the wheel well and where the new truck pan meet up (or don’t) I understand. The new pan should have a lip that bends down around where it (should) mate up with the wheel well. The factory pieces you removed should have been tack welded here.

http://members.cox.net/renslove70ss/images/trunk%20pan.JPG

With a pry bar go from the under side using the frame of the car for a brace and force the inter finder well to mate up to the truck pan. If you are fortunate enough to have a tack welder and 6 hands go for it. If not, pop rivets or self tapping screws will do the job. Mine had a gap here also and the above method worked for me. I’m not fond of rivets or screws but they are handy for holding things in place until you can weld them.

I dont think were clear. Im refering to the existing pan (above axle) and the new pan lapping over it. the sides of thoes 2 pans where they roll down into the inners

http://home.earthlink.net/~baygentst/images/mvc-002f.jpg

Ill try to take a picture tonight and show you because were unclear.

http://home.earthlink.net/~baygentst/images/right.JPG
this is the passenger side you can see how the existing trunk pan and the new one ride much lower in relation to the inner fender it sat higher but i bent down where the divider panel attaches some to help it fit a little better but thers some gap in that too.

http://home.earthlink.net/~baygentst/images/left.JPG

and here the wheelwell is pushed up as high as it can go. you can see how the existing pan rides much higher on the inner fender. my problem is i cant get these to line up correctly and look even on both sides without the passenger one sitting a little lower and having to do some bending in the divider to get it to fit right.

Take a measurement on the inner wheelhouses from the top flange to the horizontal stamping line that is visable directly above the exhisting pan. This will verify if the two wheelhouses were stamped the same. I've seen some of the repro stampings way off and this could be creating the visual problem you see. Also measure down from your package shelf on both sides to verify if the floor is up in that area. These cars are built simetrical(sp?) so any measurements from side to side should match. Have you trial fit the quarters yet? - assuming they will be replaced. The quarters can also give an indication if the wheelhouses are positioned correctly. Take some measurements and get back to us, I hope the problem will be obvious once you check this stuff out. Bob

i took a few measurments today and checked some stuff out.
1. floor to frame was the same (portion of frame where axle connects too)
2. the bushings are brand new above the frame.
3. the floor pan that is over the rear axle is NOT welded into anything its basically sitting in place (i put in a new rear seat floor pan so its not welded yet)
4. when i measured from that pan to the speaker tray it was basically the same maybe + - 1/8 (hard to measure in there)
5. when i measured from the horizonal line on the wheelwells to the speaker tray it appeared to be correct + - 1/8 maybe.

is there any good way to measure from the horizonal line to the top lip of the inner like you suggested? (piece of string?)

another thing...
Something looks off here like the drivers side is sitting to high up on its body mount?

http://home.earthlink.net/~baygentst/images/rightrear.JPG

http://home.earthlink.net/~baygentst/images/leftrear.JPG

sorry the last picture is kinda small but you can tell how the right side looks like its sitting up higher than the other side and that would cause it too look off or my rear seat pan is messed up...?

http://home.earthlink.net/~baygentst/images/wholerear.JPG

A cloth tape measure for textile work, seemstress (sp?) tape works good for measuring curved areas and a string would also work for side to side comparisons. The problem should be evident with some measurements. Is the original floor pan sitting higher off of the frame on one side? Sometimes just by pulling all the pieces together with clamps and screws will do wonders for getting this stuff aligned, closing a 1/8" gap in one area often times cures a 1/4" problem in another. It seems the main problems you are having is related to having just to many pieces loose at one time.

yeah its my first time and i made that mistake. at least i have the quarter panels still on. i think im going to just start pulling it together with screws and see how it goes. ill let you know

Get some Cleco's from Eastwood. They are like temporary pop rivets that can be put in and removed a zillion times. It's the best investment I've made. Get the extra clips, you will need them. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

i ended up setting a bunch of weight on the side to get the drivers to come down and even out the passenger pan. heres the result.

Sorry about it being dark.
http://home.earthlink.net/~baygentst/images/P0003380.JPG

http://home.earthlink.net/~baygentst/images/P0003381.JPG

http://home.earthlink.net/~baygentst/images/P0003382.JPG

now on the last picture the old pan isint quite perfect anymore and it sinks a little bit lower right where i highlighted it. will seam sealer cover this up?

I wouldn't cover that gap with sealer, it looks as though the old floor piece is bent down a bit on the right rear corner. Have someone hold downward pressure in the area where the weight is and go under the car and knock that corner up until a screw will grab it. Take some time and clean all the areas where you are welding, I see on some of the areas like where the seat back panel is spliced there are some welds that blew out on you. Having the metal clean will enable you to lower your heat setting on the welder and offer more control with a smaller bead. I often use a handheld spot blaster on the plug welds before welding, works good. You'll get it together, the welding will go fast after all the alignment issues are figured out.

I think it is great of you guys to post all this help especially baddbob71 being a shop owner. Great advice, Nice job

smile.gif