I want something that will remove paint, primer and any body filler. any recomendations. thanks,
Jim
72SS frame-off started

Jim,see if you can find local shop that does plastic media stripping. Will removed paint,primer and filler right down to the bare metal. Had my 69 ragtop done including inside the trunk and door jambs and any where else he could get to for about $800.00.
Left a nice surface to begin body work on. Good luck...ALbert

If you are looking for a good chemical stripper, get one of the aircraft strippers by Marhyde. They are available at any good automotive paint store. Might take two treatments, but it will strip the paint/primer/filler off down to bare metal.

Dang........... The topic heading really got me interested. Sigh, I was sure disappointed when I actually read what you wrote. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

------------------
Redrum
68 Corvette - 383 CI 427 HP
69 SS Chevelle being updated to Pro-Touring
97 Z-28

Jim,
You may want to check this out a little bit before you actually dive into these types of strippers. Sure, sanding takes a really long time, but you don't have to worry about the aircraft strippers leaving residue around to ruin your nice new paint or finding plastic media in every nook and cranny possible two years down the road. If you don't think this is possible just ask a friend of mine on stripping his '67 Camaro and then launching it at the strip. Plastic median still falls out of the cracks after this was done two years ago. Check your pros and cons of each and do what you think is the best for your ride.

------------------
I need GM style rear 1/4's for 70-72!! e-mail me.

Aircraft Brand stripper works real good but its quite messy.

Stripping paint with chemicals is the worst, nastiest, job that there is. It can also be hazardous to your health. My experience was with a light aircraft I owned a few years ago. I think a car would be worse. When it was finally finshed, I swore never ever again.

My $0.02

OK, so if I don't use the stripper is it possible to get all the bondo out by sanding. It makes sense to keep this stuff off the body. But what is this plastic median you're talking about and where on the body is it and what is it for.

jim

Body Stripper - had a good one at a bachelor party - lost her number though ! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif

[This message has been edited by 283v8 (edited 08-30-2000).]

Jim,
The plastic media that I was talking about is the stuff that they shoot out of the gun to strip your car with. Media is usually in the form of sand, plastic (small pebbles), baking soda or even walnuts. The use of each media depends on what you want to strip. Usually sand or plastic media is used for what you are wanting to do, but remember this can and will get very annoying with all the sand particles in the air. Take your time to minimize this and to also check your work. Jim, while you are at it I would seriously take some video or pictures of you work in progress, not only to show us but also to document what you have done for insurance or for when you may want to sell this vehicle. You will also find this helpful when trying to piece this thing back together! Let me know what you decide and how things are going.

Joe W.

------------------
I need GM style rear 1/4's for 70-72!! e-mail me.

Joe W. Sounds like the median stuff you're talking about is a sand blaster or something. I was going to use a stripper that is brushed on and then scrapped of with a plastic putty knife. are we on the same page or not?????? Thanks, Jim

72SS Frame-off started

Um, there are strippers with good bodies at the Red Garter ("gentlemen's" club in Indy). Seriously, I wouldn't use chemical stripper. I did my entire '69. It took weeks, about 5 gal of aircraft stripper, 3 pr of rubber gloves, and was a miserable job. You can't help tracking the goo around, getting it on your clothes and skin, etc. That stuff burns too.

------------------
von '69 300 Dlx SS TC #15 ACES #1575

I stripped the hood, front fenders, doors, and trunk lid with paint stripper. I tried aircraft stripper and hated it. I found that Captain Lee's has the best stuff I've used. He is located in hermitage, Tn. His number is (800)421-9498. It is a messy job and one I would not want to do again. I had the car down to an empty shell on the frame. The body was completely gutted. Took it to a place here in Indy and had it media blasted, inside, outside, frame, everything. Cost me $180.00. Best money I every spent. It is hard to get all of the media out afterwards, you don't want the paint gun blowing it on the new paint, so you have to do a thorough job of blowing the car out. If you put it on a rotissarie it makes it easier. For $180.00 and little labor on my part, I'll live with the left over media. By the way, nothing was warped and I was left with a spanking clean car to work on.


------------------
Bob Murray 66 Malibu
Greenfield, Indiana (Indianapolis)
TC Gold #49
Aces #01941
NCOA #20838

I am a paint rep and I have a few tips..
If you are going to strip with paint stripper duck tape ALL seams including dor and welded (like the upper rear panel to quarters below the rear window on a '69 Camaro) You MUST keep the stripper out of these seams, and with the door seams it just saves a ton of work.
DON'T use baking soda! we have had a bunch of problems with paint NEVER sticking to the car again! The plastic media is the best and I highly recommend it. But it will not remove "bondo" or rust, just the paint. It works great and the metal doen't even look like it ever had paint on it, and no "sand blast" scars, the metal looks new.
If you use a chemical stripper, do only ONE panel at a time MAX and compleatly clean each one before going to the next, you will be overwelmed VERY fast.
Put a plastic tarp under the car where you are working and WEAR THE BEST PLASTIC GLOVES YOU CAN GET, a buddy of mine stripped three cars in a row one time, he had no finger prints when he was done..no kidding, that stuff will burn you RIGHT NOW!

------------------
1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T

Jim,
Yes the media that they use or you can use is for a sandblaster. Jim, I seriously wouldn't use the aircraft stripper, but that is only my opinion. It so damn messy and with all the hazardous material left over you have to find a place to properly dispose of it. Now if you use a sandblaster you have to be careful not to heat the metal and warp it and avoid the age old "smoke screen" from all the particles in the air and floating above you. But this method can do a good job, but like I said my friend's car still has the media falling out at the nooks and crevices in and out the car. If it was me I would go with the sandblasting but do little pieces at a time such as a hood and then brake for a day or so and then a fender and so on. Just my opinion but I hope this helps you out.

Joe W.

Last July, while on vacation, I used chemical stripper to strip the 15 year old lacquer paint from my '70 Chevelle. It took me an entire week, 8 to 10 hours a day to do the job! It was during that heat wave we had in New Jersey where the temperature was in the 90's every day! The maximum area I could do at one time was about 10 inches by 10 inches. Any larger, and the stuff would dry too quickly. Unreal. However, because of the inability to do large areas at one time, the job actually came out nicer than I expected. As I finished each panel, I washed it down a number of times before I went on to the next. This is VERY IMPORTANT!! The big problem was that all the door dings we had "bondoed" 15 years before, had to be repaired again, which was alright. Gave me something to do in the 90 degree heat! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif At least the bondo set up real quick! It was tedious work, but in the two weeks, my son and I managed to strip the
paint, do rust repair and body work, prime and paint the car. Yep, sure do love those 12 hour days, especially on vacation! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif Anyway, as stated in the above posts, it's messy. Have plenty of newspapers, gloves and water nearby to get the crap off your hands!! If you're careful, though, the job will come out just fine. Only took a gallon of stripper for the whole car (vinyl roof). Also, I found that cat food cans are perfect for pouring the stripper into for application. Oh, and I did it outside in the shade so there would be plenty of ventilation.

[This message has been edited by MalibuJerry350 (edited 09-01-2000).]

DON'T get the stuff on your hands, if you can help it. Many, if not most, strippers contain methylene chloride and it is a carcinogen (causes cancer). The vapors are bad too.

I got a lot of the stuff on me 20 years ago while I was doing the airplane, and I'm still kicking, but I wouldn't do it again. If I was forced to do the job, I would get the best gloves, apron, and wear a respirator and have good ventilation moving the air away from me and the work. All the goo that you scrape off is hazardous waste that needs to be disposed of properly.

My $0.02

Hey guy's I want to know two things..where is that blasting shop in Indy to do the car for $180.00? Up here in Michigan it is going to cost $450 for th e frame and $800 - $1000 for the body. And also where again is the Red Garter? lol.



------------------

There's a strip joint in front of the body shop that just painted my Elcamino. Really there is http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif

------------------
Dale
Lowered '67 Elcamino
ZZ430HP / 4L60
"Canyon Carver"
www.chevelles.com/showroom/elkydriveway1.jpeg (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/elkydriveway1.jpeg)

My $400 '93 FireBird
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/D:%5cMyPhotos%5cFireBird.JPG