I assume you do them one at a time as not to shift the cowl. Is it wise to replace as little of it as you can, or should you replace it with the complete pan provided? I assume you go toe pan, floor pan, under rear seat in this order. Anyone have any experience with the aftermarket toe pans? Mine were stamped in Canada. I'm not sure of the maker as I ordered them through a 55-57 chevy parts dealer who deals with a little bit of Chevelle sheet metal. These are bare metal. Anyway, how much massaging do these need? And also....do they overlap? or "underlap" the actual floor panel.

ttt

Yenko you might want to see if your floor pan will repalce the rusted area. When I did mine I found that the "toe pan" only included about 3 three inches more metal then the floor pan. Meaning that most of the toe pan was included with the floor. So I would lay the floor over your existing floor and check if it will remove the rust out areas.

When removing rust you want to remove as little of orginal metal as possible. If you dont need the entire pan to remove the rust dont use the entire pan, cut it to fit the rusted area. To properly weld in the pans you should butt weld them, rust prevention is the biggest reason. A lap weld can hold moisture for future rusting.

If you find that you need both the floor pan and toe pan it would be easier to install the floor first, fit it to the orginal metal first. Then install the toe pan. The toe pan is easier to fit and modify because of its smaller shape and its pretty basic form as its fairly flat, were the floor is complex. I would do the floor first then toe pan

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1970 chevelle
1970 chevelle SS455 not a typo its a BUICK BABY
1949 and 1972 chevy trucks
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/sevt_chevelles