I'm having alot of my suspension parts sandblasted right now. My question is, would an epoxy primer be right for this application? Also I'm going to start primering the interior and trunk area soon, would epoxy serve this purpose also? Would an etching primer be more appropriate? I also came across a brand sold by tools usa, "kirker". Anybody used this before? Or should I just shell out the cash for PPG?

Also, would epoxy be appropriate for insides of fenders and frame rails

Thanks for your replies, Dave

anybody?

I'm picking up my parts on my way home, wondering what's best to get them covered with? Thanks

I used DP90LF for all the parts you just mentioned.

I also used it on the entire interior metal, that was sandblasted as well.

Good Luck!

Por 15 or Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator (formerly known as Corroless) would be my choice. Powder coating would work well also, but tends to be more expensive.

Originally posted by Randy Mosier:
Por 15 or Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator (formerly known as Corroless) would be my choice.. DON'T use any of this crap on nice clean parts.

use the DP90LF and top coat if you want.
i personally dont top coat, this is a two part epoxy primer sealer so the elements are locked out.
the only thing it dosent have is U.V. protection and sense its on the underside of the car it dont matter.
im sure someone will have something negative to say about this, if they want they can look at it at C.B.04 its been on their 3 years and still looks great.
and 12 years on my other one.

Dave,
I used glass bead on all my suspension pieces and frame. Then I shot all that bare metal with a metal etching primer and then Chassis Black. But I did'nt have any rust to contend with either, just caked on dust, dirt, and grime.
The car will not be driven when its wet outside, and it will spend the Ohio winters in a heated garage.
These are just some things that I believe need to be considered right now, where your at in your restoration.

Originally posted by DONNY:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Randy Mosier:
Por 15 or Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator (formerly known as Corroless) would be my choice.. DON'T use any of this crap on nice clean parts.

use the DP90LF and top coat if you want.
i personally dont top coat, this is a two part epoxy primer sealer so the elements are locked out.
the only thing it dosent have is U.V. protection and sense its on the underside of the car it dont matter.
im sure someone will have something negative to say about this, if they want they can look at it at C.B.04 its been on their 3 years and still looks great.
and 12 years on my other one. </font>[/QUOTE]I can vouch for the looks of DP90 on Donny's car - it looks great. I know there are newer products out, but I also have seen the DP90 work well.

My .00002 cents worth

I also used the DP90 (I am pretty sure it was the DP90-it was a two part epoxy- but it was 9 years ago).

It still looks pretty good...

Although I did mine in white :rolleyes: It gets dirty quick, but cleans up pretty easily...

So dp90 is a two part epoxy, all the epoxy primers are going to be two part are'nt they? Also is dp90 a ppg product. So will dp90 be suitable for the interior and trunk space, I'm cleaning them with a wire wheel, then wiping it all down with a solvent till it's clean. So will this dp90 adhere in this situation? Sorry for all the questions, but I don't want the mistakes. Also who sells a good chasis black. Think I might use that inside the fenders and interior as well. Thanks, Dave

First off, read the tech sheets. If your epoxy has recommendation, use an etch primer if you want maximum corrosion resistance.


Here it is in a nut shell, this is the way most any fleet in America would (No not everyone, please don't tell me about someone who used POR or house paint or something I'm talking about most quality companies). On logging trucks, tractors and the like where the ultimate corrosion resistance and protection is needed. And the icing on the cake is, it looks great as well.
Here it is, a wash etch primer, black epoxy primer and a urethane black SS on top. That is going to give you the ultimate in appearance and protection.

The neat thing is, this is all without sanding. SOME etch primers need to be recoated with in a few hours so watch that. But if you were to use PPG's DX1791 you can spray it on, and if you can't get the epoxy on, wait until the next day, you have 24 hours. Then apply the DP, I don't have a tech sheet for that, but I believe it has a window of 24 hours as well before top coat must be applied. So, you could (if I am correct) wait until the next day if you needed to shoot the color.
Easy as pie and super great looking.

Thanks to all for the replies. I'm going to the ppg distributor in the morning, and spend a chunk of change. Again, thanks for the replies, Dave