I'm sure I'm opening a can of worms here.
My '67 SS just came out of the shop for some motor and engine compartment work where the inner fenders were replaced. What I have is the passenger side 1/4 panel sticks out far enough that the trim piece that runs along the bottom of the car (from wheel to wheel)is almost pulling off where it attaches to the 1/4 panel. When you stand on the side of the car by the rear of the 1/4 panel and look down, there is a bunch of daylight between the trim piece and the car. The question is, what's involved in getting the back of the 1/4 panel pushed in so it's flush or close to it? I'm betting I've got a real pain in the neck here ......

How about adjusting the trim? That would mean the 1/4 wouldn't have to be modified.. (trying to save you some grief) Good Luck..

PS a picture of what your referring to would help us figure it out..

JamesP
from what I think you say. The rocker molding lays flat till you get the 1/4 panel?
also went in for mechanical work eng ect . and then something about wheel wells ?
the 67 rocker fits between rear edge of front fender amd ends at front of rear wheel well.Its FLAT ! so I can't seem to invision your problem ?

Wayne

WayneK, in your response you have summed up the problem. Yes, the trim piece is flat, and it is flush to the body of the car from the rear wheel well, all along the bottom (under the door) until it gets to the back of the front 1/4, where it has to bend outward in order to attach to the 1/4, because the rear edge of the 1/4 is not flush. The back part of the 1/4 (right behind the front wheel) needs to be pushed in.
normie, you suggested a photo, which is a good idea. I'll try to get one and post ASAP.
I don't think adjusting the trim would fly, because it sticks out so far (almost 1/2").
Also, to clarify WayneK, the 1/4 panels needed to be loosened and moved out to get the new wheel wells (and radiator core support) installed. Make sense?

I have had to deal with this same problem. First off, it will be very difficult, if not impossible to get it perfect. Were the fenders replaced, or just the inner fenders? Where the doors taken off & rehung?

I put new fenders (NOS) on my car & had a dickens of a time with the same problem on one side. Thinking that my inner fender was tweaked, I even bought another, but the problem persisted. After spending hours upon hours at it & consulting my body man, I ended up elongating several of the inner-to-outer fender mounting bolt holes to allow the fender to be pushed in more. I then trimmed the the the edge of the inner fender so it wouldn't over hang the lip of the outer fender.

There is some adjustment to the inner fender from the bolts with the big fender washers. The holes for them have a lot of slop. Otherwise all you have is the one large bolt on the bottom at the lower rear of the fender.

The inner fender shape/form plays a big role in how the outer fender fits. Were these replacement inner fenders used or new repro units?

You'll want to be careful in moving the bottom of the fender around as it may affect door alignement too. How does everything else fit right now aside from the fender bottom?

Phil


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Phil Wise
67 SS Convertible
(now on the down slope of the resto curve)
ACES # 834, TC # 231
Photos of a work in progress (http://users.starpower.net/pwise/chevelle)

Phil, all else seems to fit pretty good. The inner fenders (new repro) were the only thing replaced along with the radiator core support (also new repro). The 1/4 panels were not removed from the car, just loosened and pulled out enough to get the core support in. If I understand your input, I have the one bolt at the bottom lower rear of the fender to loosen, and I would need to open up some holes at the attachment to the inner fender? This with the warning that I have other alignment issues, door etc. Sound like I'm moving in the right direction?
Thanks to all for the help.

I suspect that it would be safe to assume that the fenders (aka front quarters) were removed in order to install the new inner fenders. I will also say that I do not put a lot of faith in repro parts.

You read my post correctly. I would first try working with the single lower bolt. Be sure to loosen inner-to-outer fender bolts first. If the inner-to-outer bolts appear to be restricting the lower fender alignment, get the drill & grinder out to elongate the holes & trim the excess inner fender material.

One other option, which I didn't mention in the first post is that there may be some interference between the brace on the inside of the fender and the body. If you loosen the lower bolt & it does not allow you to push the fender in far enough, you may be able to grind a little off the brace.

Good luck,



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Phil Wise
67 SS Convertible
(now on the down slope of the resto curve)
ACES # 834, TC # 231
Photos of a work in progress (http://users.starpower.net/pwise/chevelle)

JamesP Phill has been steering you in the right direction. Just a few thought to interject. You my want to loosen up the back perimeter bolts on the inner wheel well then adjust he fender to fit and the tighten up the wheel well bolts.also check to see if the rear apron of the wheeel wells are holding out the fender with interference with the frame. a large pry bar( tire iron)
will fix that. GL



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Wayne
ACES 1556
TCG 186
So many Mustangs
So Little Time

Sorry I thought you meant the rear 1/4 panel.. I was hoping to avoid a re-cut and weld situation.. If it is the front, you have to monkey with everything to get it right.. Doors, fenders, inner fenders, and hood. I would recommend loosening all of the bolts and start working on aligning them one at a time.. works best for me.. the hard part is tightening the bolts without moving anything http://www.chevelles.com/forum/wink.gif good luck

Don't loosen all the bolts! Just the ones in the area you are working, or would affect the area you want to move. You can move one area of the fender without moveing another, it isn't a chunk of granite, it will flex.

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

I wish I could express my thought better in written word ARGHHHHHH#%^#%^%^$%^
But MARTINSR is On the $ you just want to loosen up the lower fender bolt and half the
inner wheel well bolts. also try the two with the washer on the go to mid inner fender,then line up the lower fender with the door edge and flat in line to the rocker edge.

GL

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Wayne
ACES 1556
TCG 186
So many Mustangs
So Little Time

Wayne, you said it very well, I was refering to "normies" post. I think this problem is isolated to the lower part of the fender and I would hate to see James loosen all the bolts in the fender and have a MESS to deal with.



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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

Just be careful, when you move the rear of the fender in, it MAY rub on the door and scrape the paint off. Are these repro fenders? If so, good luck trying to get it adjusted, It is almost impossible to get a good fit without major work.
Ron

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70 Chevelle SS396
66 Nova SS 327
95 Z28 Convertible.
Aces 3081, TC #54 Gold

Good point Ron! I usually put a masking tape covered flat blade screw driver to hold the fender at rocker area. Or a wooden paint stick, you get the idea.

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

Sorry guys, been wrapped up for a few days and haven't been keeping up with your posts.
I will be attacking the beast over the weekend with the ammo provided by all your helpful post's. If need be, I have an assortment of hammers of a variety of sizes.
http://www.chevelles.com/forum/wink.gif
Or, as guys say in our shop "just run into it with the fork truck"
Thanks again for all the help.