For a quite a while I have wanted to have removable panels dipped to remove paint, caulk, and rust. Finally, I found a local place doing it for $255 a batch (everything but body and frame will fit). This sounds cheap and better than blasting since it gets everywhere.

Question is, how do I prep the panels once I get them back. I don't want to trust someone who is not a seasoned bodyman, so I need some expert opinions. I plan to use etching primer and then either epoxy or urethane over it. I don't see a need to sand the surface but am considering washing it with plain water and/or using normal automotive panel cleaner. Suggestions?

Ed

The stripper company will most likely neutralize the chemicals when completed. Trust this ? NO It would be best to neutralize it again by washing thoroughly with a really good pressure washer and then make sure everything is really good & dry. Allways use a Wash'n Wipe wax & grease remover before spraying anything onto a body. Just cause you don't see something there doesn't mean it's not there. Oil's from hands are bad!

It's a good idea to give the bare metal a bit of bite by quickly sanding it with 180 on a DA prior to applying primer. I would suggest that you go with an epoxy etching primer and then go to a high build primer afterwards. I would recomend Evercoats Slick Sand primer for a high build primer as it is fully compatible with everything, provides a lot of build and is very well priced. It does require a 1.7 to 2.0 (Binks 80) tip for spraying because it is thick.

Light door dings and small imperfections can be handled by using metal glaze on the primer as long as it is very minor. Any real body repair / filler should be done on bare steel with good tooth prior to a complete primer. Most caulkings prefer to be applied after the 1st primer is dry and before the 2nd primer coat. Make sure that the caulking used is the correct automotive, paintable product.

Hope it helped.

More information since I dropped the parts off this weekend. This place is a production paint preparation place that does work for auto manufacturers and other factories, but are also willing to help out restorers like myself.

They run thousands of parts a week through by dipping (removes rust, paint, caulk), then neutralizing, then a dip in a rust inhibitor before a forced air drying procedure. This is probably a lot like what GM does on new cars, what I need to find out is exactly what the "rust inhibitor" is - my guess its a form of etching that may not be compatible with etching primer. If I remember correctly, most etching primer specifically indicates not to use etching acid prior to application or you will have problems. When I get this information I will pass it along.

Ed

I would check it out with them, but it is most likely some sort of Etching Vinyl Wash sealer. If this is the case then you don't need or want an etching primer. Use what they put on it and follow their directions for prep for the primer.

Let us know, BTW: Do they have a website that we can check out ?

The rust inhibitor is a "proprietary" coating they can't discuss. It is water soluble and his recommendation was to use a damp rag to clean it off then follow up with a solvent cleaner. He assured me that there was no need to large amounts of water and that would just wash away the inhibitor in the seams and between the panels where primer won't reach. Unfortunately, they don't have a website but for anyone in Ohio area the phone number is (937) 773-0725 and all the parts were only $255.

It is definitely NOT an etching process. So in this case it will be prepped as any bare panel.

Thanks, Ed

I would be a little leary about a rust inhibitor that washes off with water, especially when the advice given directs you to go easy on the water to avoid removing it from the seams and areas where primer can't go. What the heck is going to happen then when it rains or you wash the car? Will the water based rust inhibitor wash out of the seams?

I expect it would, it is not intended to prevent rust after painting. It is only there until panel prep is done, then it really doesn't serve any purpose after that.

I cannot think of any way to paint between the hood skin and frame to prevent rust in the seams. Anyone have ideas about this?

Ed

Even if you could get paint into these areas chances are they couldn't be prepped properly for good adhesion. I use a product made by 3M called rustfighter for all the seams, it wicks into nooks and crannies really well. Cosmoline also works well. Most inner panel rust preventative coatings contain a high amount of wax that helps form a self healing barrier to protect the metal from exposure to oxygen. Another option would be to use an uncatalyzed oil based enamel primer on the interior and also apply the rustfighter or similar over that, oil based enamels are less sensitive to contaminants that self etch, epoxies etc. All of these products should be applied after the paintwork is complete as they can cause fisheye problems with the exterior paint.

Where in Ohio is this place located. And is it correct they cannot do entire bodies, only parts?

They are in Piqua, about 30 miles north of Dayton. Not large enough for body or frame, but anything else will fit.

I am still searching for a place to do the frame, and if possible have it galvanized as well. I read about this possibility on Team Chevelle but haven't found anyone nearby willing to do it.

Ed

Here is a place in Columbus. Haven't called them yet, but it may be worth checking into it

http://www.usmetalprocessing.com/auto_mc_truck_tractor.html