I'm in the process of painting my daily driver, my 1970 Impala. http://www.geocities.com/ledsled_26m/impala.html .

What is the best way to do this piecemeal?

I'm concerned about flash rust ruining my stripping job before I can get a chance to prime and paint. Is phosphoric acid a good way to take care of this?

Also, what's the fastest way to strip a panel? I've used aircraft stripper, wasn't impressed. I've used my 3 1/2" grinder with a wire wheel, real slow.

I haven't tried it yet, but it seems that using a two-part paint and an etching primer would be a waste since I'm only doing one panel at a time, and I have to get it done in one day so I can drive it to work the next.

I know it won't be the best quality paint job ever, but anything will look better than what I have now.

For now I'm stuck using regular primer and a spray can that I had made of the color I wanted. I'd be using a gun but my compressor is on the fritz. I'm getting decent quality but I'm thinking there may be an easier way.

Anyone that is a paint guru or could point me to a site that is really in-depth, I would appreciate it. I'm really interested in learning all about the process. I'm thinking I'll have to do the paint job over again this winter, will be a great learning experience and will be no problem since it'll be off the road, but I need it protected for now and look halfway decent.

Thanks, J

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70 Impala Sport Coupe (283) - Green Goddamn!
63 Oldsmobile Dynamic 88 (394) - Hoopty
61 Chevy Stepside Pickup (350) - The Pickle
49 Plymouth Special Deluxe (427) - The Mayflower
77 Chevy Blazer (350)- The Moo Machine
98 Dodge Neon (150) - Crap
http://www.geocities.com/ledsled_26m

Try a site called autobody.com, it has a great message board where you can learn all there is to know on all subjects on repairing, priming, and painting your car. If I were you I would get my compresor fixed, by a gallon of ppg epoxy primer, and as you strip a panel prime it. This will seal it for a period till you get all the work done, and try to keep it dry. If you don't have a DA sander try to pick one up, this along with some 80 grit paper will help you get the old finish off. I have bought the aircraft stripper at auto zone,(18.00 a gallon)and it seemed to work good for me, sometimes if the paint is thick you have to coat, remove and coat again. Good luck

Thanks for the feedback - it's tough getting out of the Rustoleum/Bondo world. I've heard a lot about this PPG Epoxy primer - is it a one part primer? Also, is it metal etching or just regular? I've read a lot about metal etching, but I'm not sure of the good/bad.

My compressor does work, but only for one tankful. Something is wrong with the regulator and/or the pressure switch, when it tries to come back on it just hums. So, I can spray paint if I find something worth spraying. I'll check out that PPG primer tomorrow. I do have a D/A sander, too, just didn't seem all that fast (impatient I suppose - Haha). The aircraft stripper did work at last, but also didn't seem to cut much time off.

Also, is that autobody.com right? I can't seem to bring it up. I get an autobody.net but can't find any discussion group style chat on there.

Did I mention I hate bodywork? Give me some engines to build! Lol, thanks guys anyhow, maybe some day I'll come to accept it as part of our great hobby.

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70 Impala Sport Coupe (283) - Green Goddamn!
63 Oldsmobile Dynamic 88 (394) - Hoopty
61 Chevy Stepside Pickup (350) - The Pickle
49 Plymouth Special Deluxe (427) - The Mayflower
77 Chevy Blazer (350)- The Moo Machine
98 Dodge Neon (150) - Crap
http://www.geocities.com/ledsled_26m

[This message has been edited by ledsled (edited 05-25-2000).]

Try: autobodypro.com

all compressor engines hum, its the compressor re loading the air.
Rob

Yours hums? Mine used to refill the tank noiselessly - one second it would be empty then the next it'd be full - weirdest thing - Haha, there sure are some wise guys out there.

If your looking for a fast easy way to strip your paint without the use of chemicals, there is a guy in calif who sells a disc that you use with a mikita eletric ginder. these disc work very fast and easy! The best thing about them is they remove the paint but dont attack the metal. The name of the company is Sun Chaser tools. they are located in pasadena calif. I have the # if you are interested let me know. The disc run bettweeen $12 and $20.00 depending on size and type but beleive me they are well worth it! They have save me more time then I can ever imagine. hope this helps.

I believe the one you are looking for is http://www.autobodystore.com
Then go go to the discussion page.

The compressor will have a check valve where the air tube from the pump enters the tank. The pressure switch should have an unloader valve on it that will release the air pressure that is still in the pump and tube. This allows the pump to start without a load. If the pump is under pressure, the motor can't produce enough torque to get it moving.

Examine the check valve and the unloader valve. The valve in the tank usually isn't obvious unless you know about it.

As for you painting problem. I would get an epoxy primer and do it right. You need to use paint with activator to get decent quality. Spray can stuff doesn't cut it.

Most other primers do not seal the metal. This means that straight primer is not much better than bare metal if you do not top coat it properly without exposing it to moisture.

Peter

[This message has been edited by Peter F. (edited 05-30-2000).]

[This message has been edited by Peter F. (edited 05-30-2000).]

Thank you guys soooo much for the help. I've learned tons about paint now with those discussion groups.

One last question tho on this topic, teven123 says try to keep the PPG Epoxy Primer dry, but Peter F says it seals the metal. Would I be OK driving it for a week or so with it all in primer?

Ramrod, are you talking about the grinding discs that have sandpaper attached to them in layers? If so I've just found those here at a local shop for about the same price. I just wasn't sure how good they'd work though.

As far as D/A sanders, I've heard that 80 grit works good, that's what I have now. What about something like 40 grit? Is this too coarse for metal with a D/A?

And finally, thank you so much Peter for the help with the compressor, I'm off to the store as soon as I hit 'submit' to get one of those valves. I was looking at them last weekend.

Never knew Chevelle people could be so cool to an Impala guy, thank you so much for letting me be part of your group!



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70 Impala Sport Coupe (283) - Green Goddamn!
63 Oldsmobile Dynamic 88 (394) - Hoopty
61 Chevy Stepside Pickup (350) - The Pickle
49 Plymouth Special Deluxe (427) - The Mayflower
77 Chevy Blazer (350)- The Moo Machine
98 Dodge Neon (150) - Crap
http://www.geocities.com/ledsled_26m

Bought the valve for $23.95 and it works like a charm! Compressor is like new again. Thanks, J

That's good to hear the compressor is working. I've had to figure that one out myself. There was a bolt from one of the valves in the head stuck in the tank valve. I fixed the head but it didn't work right afterwards. The air pressure was always coming back from the tank and locking up the pump. I didn't even know the valve in the tank existed until my boss fixed another compressor and I just happened to be there. Learn something new every day, I guess.

I was thinking that epoxy was a sealer. Maybe it is urethane that seals. Go to an automotive paint store and ask about it when you buy your primer. I used Dupont wash primer (810/815) on the bare metal of my car first. It's supposed to be used on bare metal before priming and I believe it is a sealer.

Most primers do absorb moisture so be just careful about that.

Look at the resto shop part of this web site. There is a piece about painting a car.

Peter

PS. I'm also working on a Impala right now. I hope to drive it sometime this summer.

[This message has been edited by Peter F. (edited 05-30-2000).]