So, took my 4 row original radiator for what I thought was a simple leak, but found out that I would need a re-core. Really bummed about this.

I can re-core the original for $275, or buy a new aluminum radiator. If I buy an new aluminum radiator, the shop recommended a brand called Northern, for $265. It is all welded construction, no epoxy, 2 one-inch rows and a 2 1/4 core and cools up to 600 hp. It would not have the original round edges look of the original but they said it would fit fine with very little modification and that only to the rubber mounts.

Now after reviewing a number of posts in heating & cooling a lot of you recommend alumitch reproductions. I checked their site and a new radiator would cost me $495, a $230 difference. So why do you all recommend the alumitech radiator although the cost is so much more?? What I am really getting for the more expensive radiator?

Thanks

I vote aluminum!

I like my aluminum radiator and my big block does too! :D

I vote recore 3 row. Why do you need 4 rows? Was stock 4 rows? Do you think 4 row cools 25% better? Did you research this? Did you shop around and ask around about radiator shops in your area?. Sounds like a lot for a recore. How often and for how long do you expect to be making 600HP? What are you "really" getting for the extra $$$? Mostly bragging rights. I'm NOT knocking the aluminumtech guy's merchandise either, by the way.

My $0.02

If your radiator is the original Harrison, my vote is for you to recore that baby so you still keep your car as original as possible.

I will be the first to agree if you’re a true enthusiast and want to keep the car bone stock with Harrison tanks on your b/c core ... by all means get it re-cored with a 4 row ,providing your not having over heat conditions .

The differences between the original brass copper 3 row ..keep in mind 3 rows of 1/2 inch tubes equal only 1.5 inches of fin to tube contact of cooling surface ...then in a 4 row configuration the tubes get even smaller 4 rows of 3/8 tubes
Still less then 2 inches of tube to fin contact .. not to mention the original radiators has 1/2 inch space between the tubes in height ...less tubes in stack height top to bottom then today's radiators ...and less fins per inch about 10 to 12 in a original Harrison ... ok now to a aluminum core 2 rows of 1 inch tubes .. a full 2 inches if tube to fin contact .. core thickness 2.25 of fin ...
15 fins per inch of tube more cooling contact surface ...3/8 inch of stack height .. this means more tubes per header height .... also the tube to fin bond is (not lead) ... a poor conductor of heat transfer.

There are many companies offering other products as replacements ...my thoughts were if you can build a copper brass replacement (re-pop) in brass copper ... why couldn’t you do the same thing in aluminum ...and have it fit and look like the original unit

This is why we put so much effort into the design of our radiator ... to replicate the original fit and style of the Harrison rad
No modifications Required

I hope this brief synopsis helps people understand the difference between the brass copper units and aluminum configurations
thanks Don

Good parts aren't cheep and cheep parts aren't good .

Northern is what Summit sells as their house brand aluminum radiator. Summit #380457 / $254.95 You can buy a 4-row copper/steel brand new for $210 (quoted Jan 31) by Steve from JB Radiator in Sacto. Ready-Rad or Proliance (formerly Modine and Transpro) part# 433348. $269.99 at Kragens (CSK) on-line.

So Don mentioned the significant increase in surface area for cooling on a 2-row aluminum radiator vs a 4-row copper/brass. Better cooling capabilities.

But there's more to it. First, it the Alumitech radiator is a really high quality unit. That means whatever your future plans, you can keep that radiator - paint it to look stock. Polish it for a trick look. Leave it bare and it looks great, too.

Also, you will save a lot of weight over your brass/copper radiator, right at the front of your car where it counts. I weighed the difference in mine and posted it a LONG time ago - I don't remember how much, but it was a good chunk, like 20 or 25 pounds. There was no difference in the amount of coolant I added.

I tend to put the best product I can find in the car - I think it pays dividends in the long run, particularly with reliability. Usually the best product costs a bit more, but not always. A lot of guys spend the least they can to get the performance they want - I don't think that way, I'm in it more for the long haul.