I am out to get a sander. I've read all previous posts and now am more confused. I worked in body shop after school when I was young and used a DA to smooth the body after work was done which according to what I've read that is wrong. Most point to a straight board sander. Should an air in-line and a manual long board sander be bought. The places such as along the trunk top of rear quarter panel (71 Chevelle)a long board manual or air can't get into these areas can they? Is that where the DA would come in. Your help is appreciated. When I get the panel worked out with filler (I'm sure Ill need it on this first area) apply epoxy primer no sanding then surfacer primer to block sand is this correct?? I tried to answer my own questions with previous posts but ended up more confused.

An air inline sander is nice to have. Its meant to hog down body filler not get the primer surfacer straight. The manual long boards are must, they are more accurte then an air sander. Use them to finish out the work on the filler and get the primer straight. You use a da sander after the filler work is done to smooth out the rough straches left behind or feather edge, only do this when its got paint on the panel.

You can get long boards in different sizes and even make your own to fit your needs. The longest board I have is home made and around three feet long, use anything from radiator hose to pvc pipe. Use a block to match the curvature of the panel.

Dont apply expoy primer over bare metal use a wash or self etching primer first then the regular 2k or 2 part.

I AM NOT a bodywork expert, but have put in many hours on my car. The straight board is best for areas of body filler. The larger the area the more critical a long board is. This keeps you from creating dips and waves. Keep it moving around, and flat against the body so the metal around the filler acts as a guide.
I also made different profiles of straight sander (take a 2X4 or 2X2 and shape it lengthwise) so that I could sand along bodylines and keep the surface flat and straight.
A DA will work fine on metal areas, but will cut into soft filler and create low spots, dips, waves etc etc..
Air or Manual is your choice. I recommend manual as I used. This way you won't miss out on all the sore muscles, cramps, and sweat dripping on newly sanded bare metal. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif
Oh yeah - don't trust your eyes to determine when it is straight or flat, use your fingers, rub em over the sanded area.

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When applying etch primer do you stay away from the parts with filler. Or go to bare metal apply etch then sand back down to bare where filler is needed. Maybe I need a flow chart Im having trouble grasping this.
Or maybe a diesel mechanic should stay away from body work.

Etching primer is ok over cured filler unless the spec sheet says different.

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Can etch sit on a piece, while another is started, or should surfacer be sprayed on each before moving on. Ive read that you cant sand etch so the piece should be close before appying etch? thanks

Etching primer can sit but you must scuff up the primer and reapply the ecthing primer again if it sat for over 24 hrs. But it would be better to apply some primer surfacer over the etch primer then move on to the other part.

Secondly self etching primer is not meant to be used under body filler only a recommend expoy primer like PPG dp 40 can be used under filler.