two weeks ago I was reading a page wrote by Dennis which covered what works well on your a-body. It was single spaced, it covered the whole chasis and it was about a page long.

he posted a link and I am having trouble locating it.

Which one? Not being a smart ass, there are dozens. What specific info did it have that you are looking for and was it a linked page or something I threw together on here?

sorry denny, I was trying to reduce your fan mail, but since i got your attention.

It was a linked one. I remember you specifically saying something like "many of you want your car to be comparable to your neighbors BMW" I wanted to reread your recommendation for quick ratio power steering gear box.
Tomorrow I will check for what the ID is on the box I have but last time I tried it was less than 3 turns lock to lock. So i assumed it was 2.9 but others tell me i have a 3.5. Jim Sheas spread sheets says it would have a 16-12.4:1

I was thinking about upgrading it to a 2.5 lock to lock.
I was thinking of taking it to gear box rebuilder and having them do it. I have two extra A body gearboxes thats i could have rebuilt to have the stock turning radius with quicker ratio.

I would do the jeep gearbox but that requires an $80 coupler so that would be a total of $150~
I would considering buying one off ebay but if you buy the wrong one you could lose your turning radius.

user Gus Mahn said "My understanding is that the 2.5 and 2.9 are the same ratio. The 2.5 is the F-body box that has internal steering stops where the 2.9 does not. The 2.5 box won't make tight u-turns in an A-body."

whats the route to go?

confused
Brian

Ok, the linked page can be found under "suspension" on my web site (see sig).

As far as gearboxes go, the 600 series is by far the best but there no drop in junkyard sources and new ones run ~700.00. The next best is the 800 series rebuilt by Lee and custom valved to your application and tastes, again, not cheap.

The ZJ gearbox form a junkyard will yield anywhere from 2.5-2.9 turns depending on what day of the week it was built, doesn't really matter, the ratio of ALL (not some, or many models but ALL) WJ gearboxes is 12.7:1. Some have the internal stops set a small amount different resulting in more turns than mothers, same ratio though. They do however have a different feel to them, I do not know of a way to easily identify which boxes have which valves as the ink is always worn away that would have identified the different boxes. The turning radius of all WJ and late model Caprice boxes is the same, no reduction in turning circle using either, of course it would be easy to "claim" it was a WJ box and it just be out of a late model Camaro (same feel, same ratio, much reduced turning circle) so buyer beware. Jeep boxes are much harder to find and wrecking yards know what the dealer gets for a reman box (~800.00) so they don't give them away like many of the other Saginaw boxes.

I was looking for this page too, and could not find it linked from Dennis' home page. Here's the link to his advice page: http://www.onrails.us/my%20advice.htm

As far as gearboxes go... The next best is the 800 series rebuilt by Lee and custom valved to your application and tastes, again, not cheap.

I chose to go with the AGR box (about $300+)... I think most pieces are new, and not just rebuilt (I recall only the box being a "used" part, but not sure about the gears).

These have the 12.7:1 ratio, they aren't limited in travel (at least as compared to the stock Chevelle), they can be ordered with the old-style/size input coupler if desired, and also with the older "Inverted-Flare" (so you could reuse your old hoses without adapters) or the newer "metric O-ring"...

The input torsion bar on mine is pretty stiff (I think it might be rated as stiffer than any "stock" application), which makes the "road feel" pretty nice...

I just run my old rebuilt pump and stock plunger, so maybe I need a bit more pressure, but its easy to drive, but a little stiff for parking (can't really "one-finger" it when parking with my 265 front tires)...