I'm in the market to purchase an enclosed trailer for my Chevelle.
I've never owned a trailer before and have just started researching
them. Any first hand recommendations on makes, brands, features,
etc. would be appreciated.
Thanks!

Blueline, First what are you going to pull it with. 1/2,3/4,1ton. An enclosed trailer will pull differently than an open trailer. There are a lot of different type trailers on the market. Ive got several friends that have 20,24,28ft etc. Ive got a 32 ft Pace gooseneck, The main things I consider in a trailer are, axles, wt, always dual electric brakes, size of tires, suicide door on drivers side. running lights etc. If you are going to haul a trailer, make sure your hitch is correct for the wt. Use a load leveler. If your truck is not equipped with a elec brake go to Napa or a local RV store. There are a lot of factors when considering a trailer. Iam sure a lot of the other guys will chime in here. Go to Ebay and pull up the trailers. You can find a good buy. Another thing, Ive seen some good trailers and some junk. If your like me and your going to do a lot of traveling, Make sure your truck is up to the task! Good luck with your search.

Featherlite is top notch, but you pay for it, and you want to get something with a v-nose, the wind resistance makes a big difference.

I wouldnt call featherlite top notch, my brother has a bike trailer and they had the fenders mounted too close to the tires, 1 inch, needless to say they rubbed. when you make a top notch trailer ,you stand behind it, they gave him nothing but excuses telling him the axle bushings were worn. the trailer was used very little. he had the fenders raised at his expence and hasnt had a problem since. I have the cargo express 24 ft and no problems so far. good luck ,,, Dave

I have a 28" Haulmark and love it. We had it custom made. Raised 3", dovetail ramp, "V" nose front door in the "V", lowered and narrowed the inside wheel wells.

My son and I share it, I use it in the spring/summer and he uses it in the fall/winter. I have a few cars and he has a couple of hotrod snowmobiles. Works great for both of us.

Raising it 3" inches gave him more ground clearance for those snow drifts in the center of the lanes on the highway, and it also helped to lower and narrow the inner wheel wells for door clearance geting in and out of the car. Extra cost """ NADA Haulmark did it all free as we had it ordered that way.

It's not so much the trailer as it is the tow vehicle as was advised before. Don't even attempt to haul with a half ton. You will be at the max limits and no margin for problems, plus you are gonna wear that truck out faster.

There are lots of used trailers out there, but check the brakes and axles/bearings as that is what wears out on trailers fastest.

Have fun with it.

I have a Pace Shadow, really nice trailer. It weights ~4000# and has 5000# axles. I looked for a nice interior, all finished aluminum, with insulation. I aslo got one that is completely sealed, it has dust seals everywhere and all the seams under the trailer have seals. I looked at stud distance, mine is 16" where others have 20" on center. Also I have the 6" taller version, if you are tall you will notice. I one thing I liked about the Pace was the quality for the price, yeah I could have got a light weight Freatherlite and paid a lot more, or I could have got a less quailty (go look at trailers on lots or for sale local to see craftmanship) and saved some money. I use my trailer at over 20 races a year and then anything else I would tow inbetween.

I have notice that if you are buying used, you can find good deals on Gooseneck/5th wheel, but they are usally longer (less people are in the market for those, Tag trailers really hold there vaule). Also look at some used ones that may have work done. I have installed cabinets in mine, and will be pluming in the air with perminent mounted compressor and generator.

Blueline,
I have had several enclosed trailers but the best one so far has been the Pace American Shadow. The service I got from Pace was great also. I had a problem with the vinyl floor covering and the RV door gasket was torn. I called the factory in Texas and asked about bringing the trailer to them. The manager happened to be coming to Ft Worth, he met me at the trailer dealer and picked it up. A week later he brought it back repaired plus thru in a few new options.....

One thing that kills me is I don't have the room to store the trailer at my house so I have to pay $30 a month for a 10x30 outside storage space.

Thanks to everyone for replying. You've provided a lot of good info.
The truck that I will use to be pulling the trailer is an '06 Chevy 1500
1/2 ton, though it was ordered with the new Vortec Max package which
includes a more powerful 6.0L and all the trailering bells and whistles to
give it a 10,000 lbs. max trailer weight rating (weight-carrying hitch limit
of 5,000 lbs. and a tongue weight of 600 lbs.) and a 15,500 lbs. GCWR.
These ratings are almost identical to the 2500 HD 3/4 ton I almost bought,
plus the 1/2 ton was less expensive (which allowed me to get more creature
comforts).

I will likely go for a new trailer, though I certainly won't rule out a quality
used one if one pops up. I'll take a look at the sites that were mentioned.
I'm hoping not to have to pay a fortune for a trailer that I don't need to
worry about my car being in.

They are some great tips. I hadn't thought about the V-nose helping
with aerodynamics. Anything that will improve the handling and safety of
towing the car is a plus.

Everyone seems to agree that axles are very important. Is one particular
axles/suspension design better than the other.

Thanks, Greg

Greg,
My Pace had the torsion something axles under it. The axle type also effects the load height... the floor from the ground and the angle of the ramp door to get in the trailer....

after you put 8000lbs. on the back of that 1500 and pull it through the hills of Tenn. youll wish you had a 2500HD with either the 8.1 or the Duramax with the Allison.
then your GCWR. would be 22,000 and you would have brakes built to stop you.

when you buy a brake controller the Tekonsha Prodigy is one of the best ones out there and also get the direct plug-in wiring harness. http://www.brakecontroller.com/

and if your looking for build quality of the trailer make sure to look at Wells Cargo and nothing smaller than 5000lbs. axles that will give you 10,000 total.
3,500 trailer plus 3,500 to 4,000 car puts you at 7,500 total.

Thanks again to everyone for replying. It's exactly the kind of info and
opinions I was hoping to get.

A 2500HD with the 8.1 or 6.6 Diesel, 2000lbs. greater towing
capacity, and higher GCWR with more stopping power would be nice,
but I needed to balance the fact that the truck will also be serving
as my daily driver and I will be towing only a few times a year. Balancing
my budget was also a consideration. Hopefully, I've made a good choice.

Thanks for the tip on the brake controller. Has anyone heard of DrawTight?

I'll keep the axles ratings in mind too as I shop.

Thanks.

I've got a 28' Excess tag now and think it's by far the finest trailer I've ever owned. I had a Pace with a plywood floor in the late 80's and didn't like it at all. I used a friend's Wells Cargo, and although it was heavy it behaved behind a half ton Suburban where the Pace wouldn't.

The company I bought the Excess said (that's spelled wrong by the way) said that the original family who started Featherlite sold the company and when their 5 year non compete expired they started Excess. I've looked at the Feathercrafts at some of the car shows and think they're really nice trailers, especially with some of the features they offer now, like the V front somebody else mentioned. I like the alum trailers and ESPECIALLY like the alum. floors.

I bought my 24' pace american shadow 10,000 gvw ( 5000lb axles ) with custom interior, dovetail ramp, electric brakes, wired for 120 VAC etc in the spring of 04 and like most of us here, I only use it a dozen times per year, but mostly when I go out of state.

The only topic that has not been discussed here is the trailer anti sway bar that goes between the trailer hitch and the trailer itself. I missed attaching mine on the way home from CB04, I drove thru one heck of a wind storm all thru Indiana that was blowing me all over my driving lane at 45 mph. I realized that I forgot to install it and when I did, what a huge world of difference! I will never pull my trailer without it again.

The only one item that I would change is that I should have ordered it with an in the floor spare tire compartment. I should have spent more time researching all of the available options but I didn't.

Jim

heres the Weight-Distributing System and Sway Control

http://hitchsales.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=66074&Category_Code=313&Product_Count=2

That's some more good advice. Thanks for pointing out the sway control
Jim. The one that Donny posted a link to looks like its the top of the line.

I called one of the trailer company's 800 numbers today and got some
specs and a price (more or less an MSRP). I also called one of their
distributors/retailers and was a bit surprised to get a price from them
that was about 15% higher. I guess this is going to be as much as a
price game as buying a new car. I've got a lot more phone calls to make.

Thanks, Greg

Thanks again to everyone for replying. It's exactly the kind of info and
opinions I was hoping to get.

A 2500HD with the 8.1 or 6.6 Diesel, 2000lbs. greater towing
capacity, and higher GCWR with more stopping power would be nice,
but I needed to balance the fact that the truck will also be serving
as my daily driver and I will be towing only a few times a year. Balancing
my budget was also a consideration. Hopefully, I've made a good choice.




Be sure to check your owner's manual for instructions on towing. If GM is still using the 4L60E, you should NEVER use overdrive when towing.

I never heard anyone complain about having too much engine when towing. I've heard plenty the other way. You'll be way into the rpm's when towing with that little engine. It should be okay for infrequent use (2-3 times a year). It's not so much the power of the engine that's important, it's all the other goodies you get on a 2500 that make it a better tow vehicle. I have a Suburban 2500 with a 5.7 and it's a gutless pig when towing my 6500 lb trailer. ...miserable lack of power. I live in Utah, so the elevation really saps our power. However, it'll drag that trailer all day long and never complain. The complaining is all from the driver!

YMMV. Enjoy your new truck!

I wouldnt call featherlite top notch, my brother has a bike trailer and they had the fenders mounted too close to the tires, 1 inch, needless to say they rubbed. when you make a top notch trailer ,you stand behind it, they gave him nothing but excuses telling him the axle bushings were worn. the trailer was used very little. he had the fenders raised at his expence and hasnt had a problem since. I have the cargo express 24 ft and no problems so far. good luck ,,, Dave

I've had featherlites of one sort or another since the early 90's without any problems whatsoever,but as with everything there are always your special circumstances they are one of the top manufacturers in the country and do make a top quality product.

I've checked out the specs and prices on Exiss, Wells Cargo and Haulmark.
Haven't gotten to Featherlite or Pace yet. They all seem to be quality
trailers. It will be a difficult choice.

I noticed one of the manufactors has a "nose cone" for their flat front
models, which is an aerodynamic rounded piece similiar to wind shields
you see on the top of 18-wheelers. It fits on the top two-thrids of the
box. Their V-front models are more expensive and for a given box
length add 4 feet, and this is one way they said to make the regular flat
front handle better.

I also noticed an option for a third axle. Would that really be needed,
or would two 5,000 lbs. axles be sufficient for a 3,300 lbs. trailer carrying
a 3,800 lbs. car.

Lastly, what would a good configuration be inside for the tie-down points.
It will be carrying a '69 Chevelle. I've considered using the over-the-wheel
tie-down straps, but don't know if it would work better than the
traditional tie-donw of the chassis/frame.

Thanks again for all the input. Greg

7100lbs of load on a 10,000 GVW trailer with two 5000lb axles should be just fine, that is only 71% of capacity. A tri axle I think would be an extreme overkill. As far as the tie downs are concerned, I wrap my hold down straps around my front frame rails just behind my core support. The negative point about what I am doing is that I am compressing the front suspension coil springs when I ratchet down the tie downs, but I do not think it really matters that much.

Also a side note, if you choose to use the same frame rail tie downs that I am using, ALWAYS install the straps to go across to the opposite side of the trailer floor hold down hooks, IE. the strap around the drivers side frame rail is anchored to the floor on the passenger side. Do this front & back.

Last & final note, I have also bought weight distribution "torsion bars / arms" like others here have commented on that go between the trailer hitch & the frame of the trailer. It takes some of the ( tongue I believe ) weight off of the trailer ball & "distributes" it back to the trailer frame. I am not real certain what could occur if I did not have them, other than maybe shearing off the ball under extreme strain ( not sure ) which while hauling the car I think would be pretty BAD!


Good luck!

Jim

Another vote for Pace Shadow. I love mine. It's 24 foot and I wouldn't go any smaller.

Make sure to get the spare tire....which is an options for most brands. 5000 lb axles are a must! One thing that no one mentioned is color. I have a white trailer. A good friend has a black one that is about the same age. His looks about 5 years older because of all the fading of the black.

Good luck!

Yeah, you're right about the third axle being overkill. It isn't even available
on trailers below 28'. The dealers I've talked to have "recommened" tie-down
locations from the manufactores. I'll likely follow their recommendations and
probably add a couple more. They also described the "cross-tie-down"
method that Jim described.

I already know which weight-distribution and sway-control set-up I'm
going to get, I just need a trailer. And like Jim mentioned, I would hate
to have the worse happen by not having the sway control in place.

I've talked to a Pace dealer and I've narrowed it down to either Pace or
Wells Cargo. I'm actually leaning towards the Wells Cargo, but it's hard to
ignore all the positive votes Pace has.

I was originally thinking a 22' trailer would be sufficient for the slightly
over 16' car. I'll really have no other equipment or tools I'd be carrying and
I plan on having the spare externally mounted. Sounds like I'll be sorry
if I don't go for the 2 additional feet, but what would I use it for.

The color of the trailer was also on my mind. Black was my first choice.
My concern was it getting hot inside. I hadn't thought about how it would
hold up to the elements. Another decision to make.

Thanks again for all the input. Greg.

Greg,
if your not in a hurry to buy, my 04 24' Wells Cargo will be at C.B.06 in Nashville
if you wana get a good look.

I have a Haulmark 20.5ft. There is plenty of room in the front of Old Blue to put a tool box and the spare. The 68 is about 17 and a half feet long. I also have the driver side escape door and I am very glad it is there. I have only pulled one time loaded without the sway/distribution setup not in place and I won't do it again.....

I haven't read all the responses here... but will just add what I have.

I have a 22 ft. Aerostar Haulmark Trailer ( wind resistance pointed front )Spare Tire under floor option, side escape door, 10,000 axle, ( which gets you the 15" radial tires and bigger wheels ) and it's BLACK! I have pulled my 66 SS from PA to Nashville, Georgia, Niagara Falls, VA., NC., and several other long trips... I use a GMC Sierra, 1500 4 x4 Z71 extended cab to pull it... No Torsion bars/load levelers.... How do I like it?

I like it alot.. have never had a problem with the Truck's ability or the Trailer.. space wise.. it's excellent... unless you are trailering a Race car and need lots of room for hauling extra equipment, three wheelers, etc.. 22 ft. is just great... I have a small mattress that I lay on the floor in front of my car that I use to sleep in the trailer on long trips/ and general resting on long drives... it works out really well. The KEY to it all, IMO.. is positioning of your car in the trailer.. not too far ahead and not too far back.. or you will get sway on the highway.. or need the leveleing bars and that Expense.....and a MUST... the electric trailer brakes... not even up for discussion on that. I have never had any problems.

Mike Crown

Just FWIW while on the subject of towing, I found out the hard way not to tow an EMPTY open trailer with load leveler bars attached. They take weight off the rear truck tires and on a wet road the rear truck tires will lock up easily, which sets off the ABS and greatly increases stopping distance due to locked rears causing the ABS to cycle all four truck brakes. Don't know if this would apply to heavier enclosed trailers. Even without ABS the locked up rear tires isn't a good thing.

I use my trailer every weekend in the summer and it is white, in a black trailer at the track you can notice the difference in the sun. One other thing to think about is the resale (one day you may want to upgrade), I know Pace do well, how does a Wells cargo do? I am not sure, just something to keep in mind.

I have a 22 ft. Haulmark thrifty hauler. I haul a 70 SS 454 M22 el camino. I was going to get a 24 ft. the dealer told me a 22 ft. tlr will carry any car the average person will own. my camino is longer than a chevelle, close to 17ft. Front bumper to nose of Tlr.5ft. how much do you need? It has a plain plywood interior. escape door.man door, 2 roof lites. Painted the floor grey, walls white. Was going to get the nice floor and walls. Dealer asked me are you showing the trailer or the car? DAAAA. also the more S--T you get in the trailer the heaver it gets. mine is a 99--Paid 4800.00 tax tit. plates. This trailer is designed to haul show cars. It has five bolt wheels. I am from Pittsburgh Pa. tow to GA.--Tenn--Ind--NY--FLA--MD--OH. Have an 03 Silverado X-cab 5.3 auto.Fact tow pkg. pulls just super. Yea. I would like a duramax-power stroke. My 1500 silver works a little on hills. Plates for a 1/2 ton are cheeeeper. ins.cheeeper. I tow 5-6 times a year. I cant justify a 3/4 ton Diesel for the the other 300 days of the year. If i did not tow to 5-6 shows a year, I would not need a 1500 silverado. A CHEVETTE would do just fine. 70 SS454 M22 org. ownr.---70 SS 454 RED sta. wgn. BOB

You guys that tow with Silverado 1500's. Have you had any trans problems? I'm afraid to tow an enclosed trailer because I'm guessing the 4L60E couldn't take the extra weight.

You guys that tow with Silverado 1500's. Have you had any trans problems? I'm afraid to tow an enclosed trailer because I'm guessing the 4L60E couldn't take the extra weight.

Never even breaks a sweat Von :thumbsup:

My first silverado that I towed with was a 95 X cab 1500. The early trucks untill 99 or 2000 you had to tow in drive not overdrive. The newer 1500s have the tow haul switch on the shift leaver. It moves up the shift points,and changes the internal pressures. A 1500 silverado is a fine unit to tow with. At Super Chevy,CB 06,Grand Island, I think you will see more 1500 style trucks t-hoes,silverados-yukons--1500s with a 5.3 than anything else. WHY? for the average guy that tows 5-6 times a year a 1500-5.3 gets it done. For the average working dude that is a weekend gear-head. My money says and this is a safe bet. There are more 1/2 ton P/Us -chevy,ford,dodge pulling showcars than one can imagine. We all would like a 3/4 ton 4-dr.Dual wheeled diesel,- tow unit.If you got it SPEND IT If you dont ---get a 5.3
70 SS454 M22 --70 SS 454 Red wagon---Bob Pittsburgh Pa.
P.S. Think" Black & Gold "

I have an '02 1500 5.3. Just afraid of abusing the 4L60E with a 7000 lb+ barn.

My first silverado that I towed with was a 95 X cab 1500. The early trucks untill 99 or 2000 you had to tow in drive not overdrive. The newer 1500s have the tow haul switch on the shift leaver. It moves up the shift points,and changes the internal pressures. A 1500 silverado is a fine unit to tow with. At Super Chevy,CB 06,Grand Island, I think you will see more 1500 style trucks t-hoes,silverados-yukons--1500s with a 5.3 than anything else. WHY? for the average guy that tows 5-6 times a year a 1500-5.3 gets it done. For the average working dude that is a weekend gear-head. My money says and this is a safe bet. There are more 1/2 ton P/Us -chevy,ford,dodge pulling showcars than one can imagine. We all would like a 3/4 ton 4-dr.Dual wheeled diesel,- tow unit.If you got it SPEND IT If you dont ---get a 5.3
70 SS454 M22 --70 SS 454 Red wagon---Bob Pittsburgh Pa.
P.S. Think" Black & Gold "

O.K. lets here what you guys paid for a NEW highly optioned 1500.

I've got a 24' Haulmark Edge, but have seen Donny's Wells Cargo up close at CB. There's no comparison in workmanship and quality. The Wells Cargo is much better built, IMO.

I got alot of extras (cabinets, carpeting half way up the walls, flouescent lighting, quartz lights on the outside, etc.) and all of them have to be repaired because of installation related issues. Everytime I turn around I'm finding screw heads laying around from screws that were driven in at wrong angles or overtightened and half broke, trim pieces around the door openings that are mis-aligned, the frame must not have been primed, because I constantly am getting rust blisters on the front forks and at the base of the rear door that have to be scraped and re-painted. Etc. etc. etc.

I've owned it for 3 years now. The first year it sat out, but for the last two it's been in a storage building and it still gets rust blisters! It's rarely on the road from November-April, and when it does go out it's a nice day! So it's not like I run it through salt all the time!

Haulmark has a good name, but I'm not sure why. They must hire minimum wage grunts and provide no supervision. The quality of the materials are also suspect, IMO. For what I paid and the "name" they have, I expected alot more.

Andy

I have not read all the responses but I would assume you are getting a new boat if you want a trailer. lol just kidding I am so verry surprised nobody had said anything yet...


Brian

Thanks again for all the input. I've got more to say, but an really pressed
for time due to leaving on a business trip. Will post more beginning of
next week.
Thanks, Greg

I only read a few replies so I'll add in my setup.
Truck: 2004 2500HD deisel 4x4, open bed, no cap or wind spoiler
Trailer: 2001 Pace American Shadow 26' 5000 lbs axles, Reese load leveler hitch. It tows nice through the mountains of western VA & TN, althoug it struggled a little on that monster climb on I-40 Eastbound in TN, those that go that way know what I'm talking about. It gets 12 MPG with the trailer loaded close to 9000 lbs, maybe a little more due to all the stuff I carry in there.

OK, I'll stick my two cents in.
I have a 20ft Haulmark trailer and a Ford F-350 dullie with the V-10. The Chevelle fits in the trailer fine with 4 feet to spare for tools, winch, jack, etc.. With the cap on the truck, I have plenty of room for anything I have to bring to car shows. The V-10 does the job with no problems. It will go 86 mph if I want it to. Ask me how I know. (Somehow I talked my way out of the ticket!!) It gets about 12 miles to a gal with the trailer, but who cares. I only tow the car 5 or 6 times a year so...

http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/trailer.jpg

I have bought a used 1995 Silverado Extended, 350, 4.10, with a long box. Planning on pulling a 28 foot with my chevelle in it which weighs 8800lbs totally loaded. It has the L4-80 trans. I've been told that pulling in over-drive is not a problem. Can anyone confirm that?

I bought the extra length for resale as well as during the times their is some rain. Pitching some chairs and a cooler inside seemed to be of some importance to me. I think the additional length will give the truck some extra stability going down the road except of course in high wind conditions.

Jim

Whom has had problems with parts and service and what manufacturer?

I wouldn't pull in OD consistently if I were you :(

I wouldn't pull in OD consistently if I were you :(
I wouldn't pull at all in OD unless you have a Tow/Haul switch.