Ok guys, I’ve decided that the only way I’m going to get this project going this summer is to give this body/fender stuff a try myself. I have watched a lot of guys do it, (I know that is not the same as getting in there and doing it) and I’ve done a few, very few, simple things myself but I’ve never attempted a whole car. I’ve ordered a couple books and a video on the subject.

I’m also hoping some of you can give me some pointers along the way. Here are some opening questions

1. I am gong to have to remove the light surface rust that has developed on the areas of the car that had been left with exposed metal. I’m thinking scotch brite wheels from Eastwood. I have also ordered a pressure abrasive blaster for some of the harder areas. I realize that I’ll have to be very careful not to blast flat panels so that I don’t warp them.

2. The car has had several paint jobs and the paint is rather thick on the body of the car. My body car had planned to strip a couple of layers of paint off the car. How can I tell if it does need to be stripped? What should I use to strip it? And should I take it down to bare mental or just strip off top layers?


3. What type of primmer do you recommend, given both my in-experience and needs to have the car in primmer for a little longer than you more experienced guys would have it?

4. I do not own a spray gun and plan to buy one. I have a medium size compressor that keeps up with air tools without any problem. I don’t mind spending some money on a gun, but don’t think I need a really top of the line gun… or maybe I do. Given that I am going to use it for primmer and possibly applying the paint what do you guys recommend? Or like my body man, should I, do like he did and buy a cheap gun for primmer and a good gun for the paint? What do you guys recommend (whose gun?)

5. As for the bondo. I don’t need a lot, just some in the area of the rocker that was replaced, the corner in the rear window where some metal was welded in, and on both back corner panels where we had to weld in some metal. My guy was going to use East Wood’s metal to metal bondo, has metal in it?? What do you guys recommend?

6. And to end for now, What kind of paint should I be considering? A two-stage base/clear, or a one step paint. I am going to start by painting the cowl and the inside of the front fenders, the underside of the trunk lid, etc until I get a feel for it (at least I hope I get a feel for it). What is the most novice friendly system that will give me the results this old girl deserves? Also, who’s product do you recommend. I see several PPG reps here and from what I’ve read a lot of you guys are using PPG products, so I thought I’d try their stuff.. I’ll need numbers of product names…

Thanks in advance for sharing your time and expertise. Wish me luck (hell say a prayer for me!)




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70 and 72 Chevelle
ACES # 4051 MCC # 448
TC # 1549 81/70 Cruisers

Prof.. It is FUN as Heck too do, But frustrating at the same time. You will enjoy it.. even if it is a year or so after your finished http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif OK too answer your questions in order.

For the rust/paint I would take it directly too a media blaster, the will use plastic on the paint, and aluminum oxide on the heavily rusted areas, bring it home and immediately prime it.. Personally I did all of my metal "Patchwork" then sent the car too the blaster... Any epoxy primer is a good choice, some prefer too use an etching primer first or a good product like PPG's DTM (Direct Too Metal). This will protect it (if in a shop) for some time without issue.. Spray Gun, Hands Down go too www.sharpe1.com (http://www.sharpe1.com) they make a HVLP Low Volume Platinum (Retail New is 380 bucks or more) you can ask about the refurb program and get one delivered for aboput 150 bucks.. I did this and absolutely LOVE this gun, and my small compressor can handle the gun with EASE, I actually purchased two guns a 1.5 tip for color and clear, and a 1.8 tip for primer.. As for paints, a single stage is less work because it's all in the gun.. Paint and clear.. however a BC/CC system is a bit more forgiving IMHO others will say single stage.. I say try em both and see what you like more!?!?! As for Bondo.. You can use Metal 2 Metal made by evercoat or the touted "RAGE" filler by the same company, both are quality products and will work well for your project.. Most of all have fun, Look for anything that Martinsr, Jimmy P, and vetfella (among others) post. they know thier stuff, and have left many pockets of knowledge and BTDT in this forum!! Good Luck

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X-Ray View of my Chevelle :D (http://www.normieschevelle.com/sideview.jpg)
Getting Closer (http://www.normieschevelle.com/passfull.jpg)

Professor_SS:

In addition to the fine comments above, I would recommend you strip the paint on the car if it has been repainted before ESPECIALLY if you are going to be painting the car a dark color, the paint is currently crow-footing, or you will be storing the car outdoors. It is a big, messy job though!

I am one of the old low tech guys and prefere acrilyc enamel paint (PPG or Dupont), and prefer my good old Devilbus paint gun. Hey, it's always worked good for me so why mess with the system?!?!?

Rage works well.

Mike

Strip the car to bare metal. If you would like a good training tip go to a small body shop and just ask for a few lessons on stuff in exchange for work. If you have time and can find a shop that needs a cleanup/gopher you can get a real education.

Back to the car, strip then sand with 240-280 grit. Wipe with metal prep, use epoxy primer and prime whole car. They say you can mud over epoxy,I still grind for adhesion.
the better the bondo the harder it is to sand. I was told by a rep. the more filler the easier sanding and weaker the filler.
when you think you are done prime sand prime sand prime sand it never ends. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/frown.gif
before painting get a professional to look over the car and have them ckeck or repair flaws. Send it out for paint, I won't waste my life on a paint job. Pay some money and have them squirt it, after all if they run it they fix it. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

I did what you're thinking about doing, and if I start another, I would do it differently. I would take the body off the frame and take it to be acid dipped. After they dip it ALL surface rust and paint will be removed, they will then clean it and prime it for you to begin the body work and paint. I swear I spent more on stripping wheels, sandpaper and band-aids than this process would have cost, and I spent a year doing it.

Thanks for all of the great suggestions.

Ok, here is the deal.

the car was at a shop for a year, it has been off the frame and all new floors were installed, metal work was also done on the quarters and the rear window area. The firewall was stripped and painted with por. The bottom of the car was cleaned, coated with coorless (sp?) and then covered with rubberized undercoater. The frame was sandblasted and painted, the exhauset system was replaced and painted with high temp exhaust paint. Once the car was back on the frame it was put in one of those rotaing deals that tipped it up on its side while I finished detailing the under side of it. The suspension/brakes/power steering is all rebuilt, the engine and tranny has been painted/detailed as has been the rad support. It has a new radiator, oil cooler, etc. The rear inner fenders were repaired blasted and painted. The fronts have been replaced. The light surface rust is on exposed areas where the repairs on the quarters, rear window and one rocker were done. The interior was painted with coorless first then rustoleum (sp? again). The dash and column have been painted and all my new gages have been install and hooked up. The new front fenders have been fitted. The heater core/box have been cleaned up, painted/rebuilt and re-installed.

In short, I have a lot of work into her and am reluctant to undo 1 year and $4000.00 worth of work to have it acid dipped or media blasted. Those are great ideas for my next project, the 70 that has been on hold waiting for this car to get finished. I don't know if we have a local acid dip place. I'll have to ask around. I talked to a meda blaster yesterday and he said the process would destroy much of the interior (i.e., freshly painted dash and column) the fender well work, the firewall, and the frame work that has been done. He also said he would not promiss that his equipment wouldn't warp some panels on the car. He suggested taking the engine and drive train back out. He said that the work inside areas of the trunk might also see some damage from the process. He also suggested pulling the car off the frame again. And the price http://www.chevelles.com/forum/eek.gif

I'm leaning toward chemical or hand stripping (sanding it down).

Thanks again for all the great suggestions. Keep them coming, I can use something from each of them. Wildman and I are going after her at 3 today.

I know this sounds silly, but I can't wait for her to be back home, even in her current condition. At least I'll know where she is and that she is out of the weather, even if it is in my beat up old garage.

Professor, First good luck with the project and remember to have fun.

1. Light surface rust can be removed very easily with 36 grit on a DA sander then work up to 180 grit. Media blasting is a great option but remember plastic willnt remove rust and the aluminum oxide is to harsh for sheetmetal. In order to remove rust the blaster will need baking soda or walnut shells and some blasters might not have this type of media. Dont let them talk you into blasting your car with any type of sand or aluminum media. What ever you do please dont use that pressure blaster on sheetmetal, even if you think you are careful it will get warped. Only use it on the frame and floors and the door jams, and even when doing those move fast and move around.

2. Strip the car, you never know what kind of paint is under there and what idiot painted it. Its just my feelings that if its been painted before and you dont know with what, its best to remove it cause certain types of paint DONT react well together which could cause major problems down the road.

3. Go with a self etching primer, I dont care for expoy primer over bare metal. Ive just have had bad experiences with expoy over bare metal. I use Sherwin Williams self etching primer 980(I believe that is the right number then go with my 2K primer). Variprime from dupont is great self etch primer as for PPG, DPX 171 would be a good choice.

Normie mentioned a DTM primer, Ive heard good things about this primer but yet to use it. I talked to the PPG rep a few weeks ago about this stuff and he told me basically it is the same stuff as the NCP 270 primer. The DTM primer is from PPG global line of paint which is the top of the line products, but the NCP is from the line below it so it would be cheaper.

After you get done covering the bare metal you will need another primer. This primer is called a primer surfacer, this is what gets the body so smooth. Its often called 2K primer just make sure you get a urethane type of primer. I use K36 and K38 from PPG I really like both primers, the K38 is a little thicker meaning it has higher film build then the K36. One thing when block sanding your 2K primer after you get done sanding it and its ready to be reprimed, spray those bare metal areas with that etch primer to protect those spots. Then let the etch primer flash off or dry then spray your 2K primer.

Also let the primer set up and cure. Allow the primer time to fully shrink down, let it sit for a week or two before you block it out. If you just prime it then the next day come back and sand it the primer hasnt has time to fully shrink down, and when you sand it smooth, only later does the primer shrink down and when it shrinks down it becomes all wavy again. So let that primer shrink down.

4. The type of gun depends on you and how it feels in your hand. Some prefer the siphon feed and others like the gravity feed guns. I prefer the gravity feed gun. The siphon feed guns need alittle more air to operate, so if you have a small compressor a gravity feed might be the better choice. The name brand gun I use is Sata but this gun is around 500 bucks but they do make cheaper guns. Ive used almost every brand of gun and each is different and sprays different, so once you find one you like stick with that. The gun normie talked about is a nice gun, they spray nice and feel balanced in the hand. Also if you plan on painting your car buy another gun to spray it with dont use the same gun as you painted primer with.

Also buy a gun that matches the product that you will be spraying. Every primer every clear has a certain fluid tip nozzle that needs to be used to get the proper affect. If you have too big of a fluid nozzle it wont break up the product well enough, instead of many small droplets of paint you will get a few big droplets. Causing orange peel and also too much film build. Most clears take a 1.4 tip and primers are around 1.3 to 1.5 depending on the type but a 1.4 tip is pretty standard.

5. As for body filler I would only use stuff from Evercoat. Thats what I use at work and at home and never had any problems. As for the type I prefer just the regular stuff named Rage. It sands great and easy to work with. The all metal type of filler is great too but keep in mind it sands alittle harder and the dust can be very harmful so wear a mask. Also it can be hard to tell of you added to much or not enough harder to the all metal since it doesnt change colors like the regular stuff.

6. As for the paint no doubt in my mind go with baseclear. The single stage paint is easier to spray only if your not going with a metallic color. A metallic single stage paint job is very tough to do. Also one other bad thing with single stage paint is that it will fade or die out. There is nothing between the color pigments and sun's rays to protect them from the sun. Unlike baseclear the color pigments have that protective clear coat protecting them. The sun will kill off the red pigments the fastest, so if your car will be red and painted single stage it will lose its color. Baseclear is more spendy but worth the extra cost in the long road.

You mentioned that you will start painting the cowl and insides of a few parts why? I see where you are coming from by wanting to get a feel for painting, but you will be wasting your time and paint. You will be spraying many applications of 2K primer and if you have never sprayed it that stuff it sticks to everything and is very hard to remove so in the end you will be repainting those surfaces again. Priming your car will be a great time to practice your painting skills, if you mess up you can just sand it out later. By all means dont paint anything to you are ready to paint the entire car, pracice before hand on a junk fender or something...Eric

Wow, thanks for all the info Eric...

Well, the car is home. Wildman helped me get her home this afternoon. Thanks again Tom. I feel better already. I had a heck of a time sitting on the painted floor and trying to drive the car around the area and into my garage. Ever try to let the clutch out easy while your butt checks are trying to grab onto a slippery floor? http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif

The guy just left his shop buildings open for me to go in and get my stuff, he didn't even come out of the house. Unreal...

Thanks again for all the help.

Professor, Sevt has given you about as complete a primer as you could ask for. Us old farts could split hairs on some things, but you can't go wrong with his methods.

Just remember...you can get all the "learnin'" possible, but until you actually do it, the learnin' ain't worth a toot. Experience, as you well know, can't be bought nor can anyone give it to you. You are going to make mistakes. Don't worry about it. Even if you screw up on the last coat of clear and have to start over at the beginning, you will have gained some priceless experience. Videos, books and friendly advice are great starters, but trial and error make a fantastic teacher(or in your case, Professor). Go for it!!

I agree with Eric, 36 or 40 grit on a DA will do the job for what you have left.. Just remember to not stay in one area long or you can heat and warp the metal.. Each complete panel will take you about an hour maybe an hour and a half, do one panel and prime, unless you are going too do it all in one day. One thing about the DTM primer is that it acts as an all in one primer, Etch and 2k surfacer, it costs a little more, but well worth it IMHO. The other thing that the shop my car is at uses is UPOL (sp) it's a spray on body filler, after all the bodywork is done and your straight as can be they spray this on the car, block with a long board and prime and final wetsand then paint. I've never seen a straighter job than with this stuff!!!! Sounds like you are farther along than most of us, so you shouldn't be long in completeing! Good Luck and have fun.. and next time you drive I hope your butt cheeks are clamping down on at least a milk crate, if not a completed interior http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif

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X-Ray View of my Chevelle :D (http://www.normieschevelle.com/sideview.jpg)
Getting Closer (http://www.normieschevelle.com/passfull.jpg)

Man I wish I had been bright enough to have taken a milk crate along. My seats have all been done already and are sitting in the basement in plastic wrap.

I just came in from the garage, sat out there just looking at her for a while... Wife thinks I'm nuts.

Thanks for all the words of encouragement. I realize a few trial and error attempts will need to be made and that I will make mistakes. I want to handle the surface rust issue first. Then, I can slow down and take my time. I have the bondo work, but it really isn't that much. I have a couple of old trunk lids and fenders around that I'll experiment with and then transfer the knowledge over to the 72.

I am actually getting a good feeling about this. I think it is going to be an intersting learning experience. I'm warning you guys right now, I'll be coming to you with lots of questions all the way through the project. I'm hoping to have her ready by mid summer. Maybe if it goes well I can make the MCC/ACES event. My current class load gives me 3 afternoons a week off. I have a little side job I'm just finishing up and don't have anything pressing until spring so I'll have the weekends also. I have a construction space heater I can rig up to get the temp up in the garage.

Again, thanks guys. I'm going to contact the gun people you guys recommended first of the week for catalogs and info. I'm putting together an order to eastwood for a few things. And I've had more fun looking through the Sears and other tool catalogs I have. I have momma convinced that I've got to buy a whole new set of tools.. God, I love it when that happens. I might even be able to sneak that mig in that I've been wanting. Oh that reminds me, sanders? DA, dual action? I take it that your talking about an in-line sander and I'll need an orbital and sanding sticks, what else? I have a angle grinder in both 7 and 4"

thanks guys

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70 and 72 Chevelle
ACES # 4051 MCC # 448
TC # 1549 81/70 Cruisers

Professor, yes DA means dual action sander. My advise on buying a good da is dont cheap out and buy one from harbor frieght or someplace like that. The best da Ive found is made by snap-on tools it cost around 130 bucks. There is a big difference in quality in da sanders, dont get one that has weights that can be moved around to change from dual action to one motion. Those sanders are always out of balance and feel funny in your hand and will leave you feeling the vibrations from it all day. Hutchins also makes a great da sander probably one of the best companies out there. The da sander is the most used tool in the body man's tool box so buy a good one.

An inline sander is not really needed. The only thing they are used for is the first round or two of knocking down body filler, after that you move to the hand board. Inlines are nice to have but all they do is lessen your sanding time.

You mentioned an angle grinder, Iam thinking of the big grinders with the hard discs. Those big grinders are pretty much useless in my opinion. I have a tool from MAC tools that uses a 5 in(I believe, it might be 6) but this disc is a soft flexible disc. These discs dont produce the heat the hard ones do. Plus I can attach what is called a Rolec disc on this tool. Its a small grinding disc around 3 in, the best thing ever made to grind down a weld or paint. I would highly look into buying a Rolec attachment you'll never regret it.

The other tool I love and would be lost without is my right angle drill, man I love that thing.

It seems that your rust problem is very minor, so 36 grit on a da will take care of that rust in no time. After you get done sanding with the 36 grit sand with 80 grit then 180. You might be able to skip over the 80 grit depending on how much rust was there. But you want to go up to 180 so you wont have those deep sctraches to fill.

One thing I should mention about primers is that the last round or two should be tinted with your final paint color. You do this so if you get a rock chip it will be less noticable and will require less basecoat to cover the primer. Plus the different color primer will help you determine how straight your body really is. Just make sure that your primer can be tinted...Eric

keep that great info coming. Any snap-on tool dealers in our club?

Professor, good info from a lot of people, I cant add any more technical stuff, but wanted to say that I did my entire car about 3 years ago (71SS) and I enjoyed the experience. It was lots of work, and I made mistakes, but thats the only way to learn...and its nothing that cant be fixed, so if you're like me, and want the satisfaction of saying you did it yourself, go for it...read up and watch the videos, and practice like you said, and you'll do fine. I used BC/CC on mine, but Im a tub and tile refinisher by trade, so I use single stage all the time. I would not be afraid to use the single stage on a car, matter of fact, I think its maybe time to change the color on mine, and thats what I may use. When a single stage flashes off and starts to harden, the clear rises more to the top of the layer, so you still get a clear coat type of appearance, (assuming you applied it correctly) and some protection of the colors below, but with the BC/CC, you can build it up more...keep in mind you can always add clear over a single stage paint if you want or have to. I used the self etching primer (DP40) and liked it, no problems. And I used Sherwin Williams for the color and clear, again, good products. Stick with the name brands. For a gun, there will be 100's of opinions, mine is an Accuspray HVLP system. Its the only one I have used, so I cant speak of others, but in 5 years, I havnt had one single problem. Clean your gun religiously, that will go a long way towards making it last. I take my system to a paint shop near here that services Accuspray, but doesnt sell it. They have most of the name brands however. The technician told me he likes the Accuspray better than any, and he feels its the best one. Again, just an opinion. They're more popular on the west coast than around here. But I would definitely try it if I were you. Like I said, when people ask who did the great paint job, its a good feeling to know that you didnt have to depend on someone else for it. Good luck. John

Glad to se you got your baby home. Alot of good info has been given, I'll just add my .02.

What ever BRAND you pick Dupont.PPG,Martin-Senior or Silikien.( I know I left some out ) Don't mix'em up.
Make up a plan of ATTACK.
Stick to it. To be successful you tools must match the task. Or frustration sets in.
IE I use a 8in gear drive DA. for surface rust removal. READ CFM hungry tool.
If you don't have a big air sorce the tool SUCKS to use. As for DA's, as mentioned Hutchins or Bluestreak and Ingersal Rand make good tools. watch the CFM to your supply.
Start on only one area at a time. If your
frist goal is to clean up the surface rust and get in primer. Just do that till all is done. The technic of etching primer and 2K have been covered.
IMO don't worry about finnish gun yet.
Get your self a PRIMER only gun. That's all you need now.
Keep us posted.

Let the fun begin.

thanks Wayne. I went looking between classes today, Sears has a 6" IR DA sander for about $80.00. I thuought I'd try to run down a snap on tool guy to get a price to compare.

I also looked at some guns locally. I thought maybe the local body shop supply place might have some on display but they didn't and I couldn't get the counter girl to pay to much attention to me. But at least they carry PPG products. I think I want to try the new style HVLP gun. I saw a devilbus for about 170 and a porter cable for 110. I e-mailed the two manufactures mentioned above for info. I am trying to make choices so I have quality stuff at reasonable cost.

thanks agian for all the input

later

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70 and 72 Chevelle
ACES # 4051 MCC # 448
TC # 1549 81/70 Cruisers

Hey Professor!! It looks like you are well on your way!! I am glad to hear you are going to tackle it yourself. I think you are going to get a great deal of satisfaction out of it and I hope you keep us all up to date on your progress. I do want to mention that I bought one of those sanders from Sears and in my opinion, it is not worth it. Mine has been looked after, and has been oiled every time it has been used, and put away. It works fine for a while and then it sounds like it is seizeing up. And no, it is not an air supply issue. It tries to seize up. I am not very happy with it.

Professor. Just looked at the monthly flyer he ALL local Body Supply Jacobs/Kline's/ABE
ON page two is a Sharp cobalt gravity HVLP
PRIMER gun 2.2 tip. Just what you need to
Dust on you primercoats. This is a HIGH BUILD primer only gun. It might work for Rustoleum Righ out of the can !!! but I would not bet on that.
Cost 169.00. Not bad for a gun you can get rebuld kit's for and SHOULD if taken care of, last your life time.

Wayne

Wayne,

thanks for the info, unfortunately it came just a bit later. I picked up a DeVilbiss FLG 615 gun yesterday afternoon. I got it a local body shop supply place called Colours that is a Wilkes-Berre based place that has a branch here in town. They told me it is supposed to be a good one, I hope it is. Thanks for keeping an eye out for me. I'm on the hunt for a DA now. Sears has a 6" IR DA for around a hundred, I'm thinking on that one, but someone here said he had trouble with his. You suggested an IR DA, you have one? Had any trouble with it?

thanks again
rick


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70 and 72 Chevelle
ACES # 4051 MCC # 448
TC # 1549 81/70 Cruisers

My lot in life. A dollor short or a day late.
Can't answer on the Sears tool. The only good thing about them is YOU know where to take'em back if you break'em.
I use a 8in gear drive (mud slinger) IR to rough shape mud and strip paint
A IR 4151 and an old blue head Da to feather edges of work area.
I ASSUME the SEARS or IR 4151 6in DA would do what you want. just make sure it hase a dial regulator. Because when striping with 36 grit you don't want it to spin at 10,000 rpm.
Your striping paint remember, not grinding welds.

Wayne

Professor, We got a IR 6" da at work had it for over three years now and not had any problems at all. It feels nice in the hand and operates nice and quite. I think you will be happy with a IR da. Just get a 6in pad, you dont need a 8in or mud hog.

The devilbiss brand of gun is a good brand. Dont know about that gun you just bought but just make sure that the fluid tip is sized right and I cant stress that enough. I looked through my PPG manual and PPG lists devilbliss guns at 1.6 tip for shooting primer surfacers. Keep in mind that is dosent include your gun but it should be in the general area. A 2.2 tip like Wayne mentioned is just too big, it wont break up the product like it should. If I was you I would check what size of tip you have and compare it to what is recommended to the primer you will be using.

After you you get that rust removed apply a good self etching or wash primer. Not be confused with expoy primer. Wash primer has much better corrosion and adhesion characteristics then expoy. Ive had bad experiences when applying expoy over bare metal but never when using a wash. A good PPG wash primer is DPX 171 and Dupont is Variprime and sherwin williams is 980...Eric

thanks Eric, the gun has a 1.6 installed and came with a 1.4. It can be used with the bag liners, 6 came with it, or without them. Which do you guys use? I would think the bags would make clean up easier but are they worth the hassle if your not painting "upside down" which seems to be their primary advantage. I am going to use it as a primer gun and later get another gun for the BC/CC. Thanks for the info on the IR, I'll stop by Sears on the way home tomorrow and buy it... seems like a good price. Wayne said I should have a sander with a dial regulator, I don't remember a dial regulator being built into the unit, can I use a pressure regulator/gauge to reduce the RPMs?

I'm also going to stop and get some of the PPG DPX 171, some metal prep, and some thinner tomorrow. It is going to get cool this weekend, I can run the temp up with my salamander (sp?) but I don't want to have it running when I'm spraying for obvious reasons, what temp ranges should I try to maintain? i.e., how cool do I dare let it get while I'm waiting for the air to clear before firing up the heater?

Anything else I should pick up?

Thanks again to all of you for your input on this, it has been helpful, and I've already learned a lot believe it or not. I have to work on my co-worker's place on satr morning but sat/sun afternoon, I need to replace the door hinge pins and detent rollers on the doors then I'm going to go after the cowl and door jambs.

Should start a new thread to conserve band width on this... I know Al is struggling here until the new server is on line.

Again thanks guys.


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70 and 72 Chevelle
ACES # 4051 MCC # 448
TC # 1549 81/70 Cruisers

You will be fine with out an ext regular, the only tools I have with regulars on them is my spray gun and buffer other then that you dont need them. All air tools have some type of regular built in them, as for your da a small lever off to the side is your regular.

What type of heater are you using to heat your garage? Hopefully you wont be using something that burns disel fuel as disel contains silcia which can destroy a paint job. As for a ideal temp something around 68 will be fine as that is what we set the temp at work. But if you look at the label on the paint it should give you temp ranges you can operate in...Eric