How do you know if a master cylinder is bypassing internally?

I can't tell if I just haven't bled the brakes enough, or if there is some other problem.

Background:
It started as a 2-3 weekend project, but turned into an all year project. I completely disassembled my front end, including removing the front calipers. I rebuilt the front end, and I put on rebuilt calipers and hoses.

I finally have it all in 1 piece. The last step is to bleed the brakes. I followed the normal process, starting with the RR and working my way to the FL. I open the bleader screw with a clear hose attached to a reservoir. The hose has no apparent bubbles.

Quick help would be appreciated.

Thanks!

I just did a brake swap on mine and those one-man bleeder kits didn't really work for me. I had to use a friend to do it the old fashioned way. What exactly is the condition you are experiencing? If it's an old master and you already rebuilt the rest of the front end why not spend the extra cash for a new one?

The condition I'm experiencing is that the pedal goes all of the way to the floor. If I pump the brakes, it firms up.

I'd rather not replace the master cylinder since I would have to start the bleeding process over.

Sounds like air somewhere in the system. Did you by any chance let the m/c run dry at any point while bleeding the system?

Nope, fluid was always present.

The master cylinder may be bad. If you pump it up and it holds when you press firmly on the pedal, that is normal. If you pump it up and use a very light pressure on the pedal, it will slowly go to the floor if the cups are worn. It can do this with a properly bled system.

randy you can purchase speed bleeders from original parts group for about ten bucks apiece they are designed for one person brake bleeding without using hoses and jugs

randy you can purchase speed bleeders from original parts group for about ten bucks apiece they are designed for one person brake bleeding without using hoses and jugs

They have them at Autozone too.