I need to buy two new top cylinders for my 72. Does anyone have a goo/economical supplier they'd recommend?

National parts depot has them for around 180 ea. if I remember right. I'm going to try a local shop that specializes in rebuilding industrial air and hydraulic cylinders. Its much cheaper for a rebuild. You might try your local yellow pages and look for a local shop that does cyl rebuilds.

Also try Hydro Electric - really nice people to deal with here is the link;

http://www.hydroe.com/

Rich

I would like to update my comment in my previous post about rebuilding the conv top cylinders. The ones on my 69 cannot be rebuilt, I'm not sure if other years are the same as mine. My cylinders are crimped together on the top. I spent quite a while at a large shop here in Phoenix that specializes in hyd cylinder rebuilding. The tech at the shop was able to remove the cir-clip, dust seal and two orings from the top of the cylnder body. Yet there is not a way to get the old parts off the rod or the new ones back on. The cylinders could be easliy rebuilt if they were not crimped together, there is nothing to them. The tech at the hyd shop suggested cutting the eyelet off the top of the cylinder rod, replacing the orings, and welding the eyelet back on the cylinder rod. It surely would look unsightly but would work.

One more update:

I repaired my cylinder without cutting the top eyelet/clevis. It was easy once I got my head in the right zone. There are only a few parts that needed to be removed. Looking at the top of the cylinder in the area where the cylinder rod protrudes you will find a small c clip. I removed the c clip, dust shield/wiper, backing ring and finally the o-ring that seals the cylinder. I used a razor blade and cut the old o-ring. I looked in my o-ring set and found a match. The o-ring size is .500 i.d. and .680 o.d. I lubed the o-ring with Parker o-ring grease and gently slid it over the top eyelet/clevis. I gently worked the o-ring over the c clip, dust shield/wiper, backing ring. I then pushed the new o- ring into the groove/seat in the top of the cylinder. I replaced the rest of the parts, which were still on the cylinder shaft, replaced the snap ring and it was finished. I replaced the o-rings on the inlet and outlet ports of the cylinder with standard o-rings that were in my kit. I then gave the cylinder a little shot of ATF in the inlet and outlet orifices just to make sure it had a good lube. I installed the cylinder this evening and it works nice and smooth with no leaks. Probably a grand total of $2.00 of o-rings and an hour of time including cleanup!

Good info! :thumbsup:

Thanks for sharing Dave!

I have also had real good luck in past with the folks at Hydro-Electric

Thanks Dave,
This has been worrying me, but now I'm ready to tackle my 68's cylinders. Nice post.

One more update:

I repaired my cylinder without cutting the top eyelet/clevis. It was easy once I got my head in the right zone. There are only a few parts that needed to be removed. Looking at the top of the cylinder in the area where the cylinder rod protrudes you will find a small c clip. I removed the c clip, dust shield/wiper, backing ring and finally the o-ring that seals the cylinder. I used a razor blade and cut the old o-ring. I looked in my o-ring set and found a match. The o-ring size is .500 i.d. and .680 o.d. I lubed the o-ring with Parker o-ring grease and gently slid it over the top eyelet/clevis. I gently worked the o-ring over the c clip, dust shield/wiper, backing ring. I then pushed the new o- ring into the groove/seat in the top of the cylinder. I replaced the rest of the parts, which were still on the cylinder shaft, replaced the snap ring and it was finished. I replaced the o-rings on the inlet and outlet ports of the cylinder with standard o-rings that were in my kit. I then gave the cylinder a little shot of ATF in the inlet and outlet orifices just to make sure it had a good lube. I installed the cylinder this evening and it works nice and smooth with no leaks. Probably a grand total of $2.00 of o-rings and an hour of time including cleanup!

Hey Dave

thanks for the tip. I was all set to buy a new cylinder when I read your post. $2.00 for a new o-ring and about 2 hours of time including running to the parts store and stopping at my father in law's to gab and drink a beer.

Andy

No problem! Glad to help.

Are '67s the same as the 69 (and the process you used to rebuild them)?

Looks like the SS396 Website has a different p/n for pre 68-72 cylinders. I'm not sure.........

Looks like the SS396 Website has a different p/n for pre 68-72 cylinders. I'm not sure.........

I'd bet real money it is at least similar. Youcan probably get it apart and maybe it's a different sized o-ring, maybe not. At the very least you'll screw it up, throw it away, and buy a new one, which is pretty much where you're at now.,..