well a block I had dropped off at the machine shop turned out to be junk, split up the side from the drain plug to the deck, the guy I bought it from stepped up to the plate ( after some gentle persuasion ) and is replacing it with a standard bore 350 and 3 cranks and various sets of rods. My question is : turn the 400 crank down or just buy a new crank? I am looking to run 11.5 to 12.5 comp. W/ 461x heads 2.05 int 1.55 springs. I want to spin this motor hard in a front engine rail for a new rail class that is limited to 23 degree heads. I know what I want to do but I have an open mind and would appreciate some input/ opinions Thanks, Tim

My question is : turn the 400 crank down or just buy a new crank?... I want to spin this motor hard in a front engine rail for a new rail class that is limited to 23 degree heads.
Tim,
Buy a new crank...forged. You're better off in the long run...

You can get forged cranks so cheap now days.I would SHOP EBAY you will probably find 100 to choose from .And some in the 300.00 range

what about the nodular iron cranks?

running a rail? forget the iron crank stuff.

23 degree heads? is it limited to stock GM iron castings? those heads are 165cc intake port, aftermarket 23* iron heads are available in 200cc no sweat. guys with those will drive by you like you're pulling an anchor.

Some times turning a crank down that far the oil holes may end up in the radius.

well I went the cheap route and ordered one of the scat 9000 series cranks we shall see how it does any predictions before it flies apart? (rpm, t-brake launch etc,,,) jk thanks again, Tim

Oh yeah and a big thumbs up to Jays machine in Everett Wa for their help