Alright for you collision guys whats your preferred repair method on TPO, TEO plastics?
Those are the Olfhpin(sp?)type, when sanded come off as greasy.

For repairing tears or two sided repairs, plastic weld or adhesive?
How about one sided damage, weld it or adhesive?

I work with 5 other guys and each one prefers a different method. Personally Ive never had luck plastic welding, I think its for the birds.

You do any type of flame treatment before you weld or bond? Take an open flame over the plastic to burn off the oxygen on the plastic, Ive heard of guys doing this.

How about using evercoat's Poly Flex over theses bumpers. One guy uses this all the time and swears by it, I dont see it happening but. You guys have any luck with these product?

Id like to hear your opinions...Eric

I have had good luck with both 3M and Fusor products on these types of plastics. With fusor the critical thing is the adhesion promoter application and dry time. It seems like if it goes on too wet there is problems and the stuff must be fully dry before applying the repair material. Fusor dries with a tacky surface that some dislike but works good. Some of the 3M products have been to fast IMO with not enough working time but excellent adhesion. I usually use a fiberglass mesh for the backside of the repair, depending on where the damage is. I also usually use a cuttoff wheel at very slow rpm and make slight cuts across the cracks to gain more surface area for the material to adhere to. The flame trick really works, I've done quite a few repairs on ATV fenders using that and adhesion promoter. My Grandpa brought me some plastic lattice to paint awhile back, it didn't have any identifiers for what type of plastic but it was greasy and did float so I used a propane torch prior to adhesion promoter and sealer/paint--worked great. A good friend of mine swears by SEM's repair material for problem plastics, says he's never had a failure but I've never tried it. If I weld a thermoplastic it is only to hold the pieces together so I can make my repairs with repair material. I use polyflex for the finishing work when necessary as it doesn't have the strength or flexibilty needed for the complete repair. This is just my opinions from what I've experienced. These plastics can be tough to repair but not impossible, the bumper recyclers do it all day long. Save some scrap bumpers or pieces to do your own testing.Make sure the insurance company is buying a complete kit for each job, it all has a shelf life. Bob

Eric, we had the Norton rep come in and show us the new stuff they have.Its called speed grip i think. Anyway it works really good. As far as the types of plastic. He said you only have two kinds to worry about,hit it with a grinder, if it comes off powdery, you dont need adhesion promoter,in fact you cant use it. If it gets gooey you need to use TPO adhesion promoter. Wet it on, wait about 7 minutes and put the filler on.Its two part in the dual cartrigde gun. we've been using it and its tough as hell. Ive used it to glue mounting tabs back on bumpers,even made a few tabs from scratch and they hold fine. Rep said you can use it as a doorskin adhesive also. Ive used it to repair some interior trim panels, where the tabs broke off. The rep did a demo on a bumper that was torn in half.Used some mesh as a backer, did in in a few applications but it was strong as anything the next day. You cant use any poly putty over these bumper repair materials.Although he said they are coming out with an epoxy glaze. Biggest problem i see is trying to sand it to quick,it can have a tendency to peel back while sanding.But if you let it set up good,no problem. I use the Evercoat polyflex for small things,usually when theres paint still on the bumper. If its down to bare plastic its iffy. Most guys in my shop dont want to mess with bumper repairs, i take all i can get. Id rather repair it myself than install a 'remanufactured' bumper that was repaired by, who knows with who knows what. Also the time for a bumper repair should be inline with what a reconditioned bumper cost. Say a reconditioned is $200, than to repair a damaged bumper should be about 4-5 hours. graemlins/beers.gif

Originally posted by 70isfine:
Say a reconditioned is $200, than to repair a damaged bumper should be about 4-5 hours. graemlins/beers.gif Last week I did a front bumper on a 00 Mustang, has three tabs on each side that bolt to the fender. One side all 3 broke off. Make a long story short I stopped counting my time after 12hrs. Darn painter and his da sander graemlins/angry.gif
I lost my arse on that thing.

We are using Duramix products, seems to be nice stuff. The only problem is that the plastic finishing filler adhesive(4058) is prone to pinholes, which makes me prime and reprime all my bumper repairs.

I have some that SEM problem plastic repair kit in my closet at work, Ill give it shot.

What i meant was dont get suckered into fixing a mangled bumper thats $300 for an hour. I had insurance companys wanting to pay an hour for a bumper thats trashed,yet a reconditioned is $200-$300 to replace. Why would they pay for a reconditioned when they can get it repaired for forty or eighty bucks? Put an end to that quick. I take the cost of the bumper divided by 40 to give me repair hours. If im happy fixing it for that ill repair it.Otherwise we replace. I have to prime and reprime also, mostly because the filler needs to be sanded with 80 and no finishing putty can be used.

Olefins............ ;)