I was finally able to to dedicate the time this weekend and got the entire rear clip sanded out to bare metal. The car also had a vinyl top and for the most part that is also just about ready. I have a couple of areas to repair. By the way I am up in the air on eliminating the top or not so keep that in mind.

The rear deck filler panel-1/4 panel seam is a little rough looking, there is also a small rust hole that I need to repair. Can I mig weld that seam and finish off smooth or does the seam have to be kept?

Driver's side 1/4 panel (looking at wheelwell from side) lower left corner discovered some very minor rust through. Area is about 1/2" long, and appears more like a crack. My guess, it was weak and broke through while aggressively cleaning the wheelwell inner lip. It looks to be an area that contacts the outer wheelhouse which is still plenty stout. Can I mig weld this area and then finish?

Primer??? If I have this right, I want to apply DTM epoxy in stages as I complete parts and then apply filler overtop. Can epoxy primer be sprayed like a blend or do you need to respray to the egde of the panel. I ask this because I may want to get the bare 1/4's primered before I get around to finish prepping the roof. Also, I will be pulling the Frt/Rr winshields out and intend to clean/treat the window channels also. I would have done those first, but really wanted to make sure there was no surprise body work lurking under the paint. Needless to say, when all the paint, primer and previous body work was cleaned all that was left was nice shiny metal and a few dings to deal with later.

For what it's worth, I ended up not using stripper, just 3 levels of sanding. 40 then 60 grit on my 6" orbital the 80 grit on the DA. Finish hand sanded the radius areas around the wheelwell.

Thanks for the input.

The mig'ed seem at the 1/4 will be fine.
As for the rust thou/crack what ever, i would try to find with theres rust behind it on the wheel well.

The ONLY and I repeat ONLY fix for rust to to remove it!!!! Not cover it up with tree sap, am sorry I meant to say POR15.

If you think the area is weak or thinned metal remove it. No point in putting all this time and money just to cop out in the beginning and HAVE to redo later down the road when the car is painted and done.

What epoxy are you using? Blending it wont be problem just make sure the areas that are getting blended are sanded. Ive been reading on a different forum that epoxy works best on bare metal with 80 grit.

Q) The rear deck filler panel-1/4 panel seam is a little rough looking, there is also a small rust hole that I need to repair. Can I mig weld that seam and finish off smooth or does the seam have to be kept?
A)You can weld if if you want, but the hard top had the seam from the factory.
Q)
Driver's side 1/4 panel (looking at wheelwell from side) lower left corner discovered some very minor rust through. Area is about 1/2" long, and appears more like a crack. My guess, it was weak and broke through while aggressively cleaning the wheelwell inner lip. It looks to be an area that contacts the outer wheelhouse which is still plenty stout. Can I mig weld this area and then finish?
A)DO you have a picture? Yes you can weld that to, but make sure it is clean metal and free of rust, bondo, paint....
Q)Primer??? If I have this right, I want to apply DTM epoxy in stages as I complete parts and then apply filler overtop.
A)Yes, try to store parts indoors.
Q)Can epoxy primer be sprayed like a blend or do you need to respray to the egde of the panel.
A) yes you could, but prep/sand past/more area than you will be primeing. After it dries you will have to feather it back in. Might be easier to do the whole panel to begin with.

Have fun.

Sounds like you've got a good plan. That quarter to deck filler seam can sometimes be cleaned out well with a spot sandblaster then let your epoxy run down in and fully saturate the seam- (depending on how bad the rust is). Epoxy works really well on bare steel that has been sanded with 80 then skipped over with 180 but it has to be very clean for that initial coat to adhere well. I usually clean the metal till nothing shows on a papertowel when I'm wiping it down. When you're doing the filler work on epoxy that is fully cured you'll need to scuff it up some for good adhesion. Bob

Most likely using DuPont Automotive Paints. There is a very well stocked dealer right here in town in West Chester, who also happens to have Sat. hours. The deal on the 1/4 panel seam is just that I thought I could eliminate a place for water to accumulate if the top goes back on. This is a real problem area on the 69's. Up in the air on the vinyl top also. Will depend on how the roof looks in primer (intend to shoot the car in black epoxy). My factory roof - 1/4 panel seams has the bare minimum done from the factory. I still have to dig all the filler out and make sure there is no rust underneath that. I would assume this an area that I will want to apply filler for close to finish shape befor I epoxy prime in order to seal that filled area.

I took another look at the 1/4 panel rust area after I posted last night and may just section in a replacment panel. The repair pc. would only be about 1" x 1-1/2". Probably worth it to just cut it out and weld in the new pc. There's also a couple of pick holes drilled on the passenger 1/4 where a dent was pulled that I intend to clean out and weld up.

Regarding aplication of epoxy. I assume it would be just as easy to use an etch metal prep at least I could be sure of having the surface clean then. Would I do the major ding repair before the wash or after the wash. The car had about 3 filled dings on each 1/4 panel as well as a repaired crease right behind the passenger wheelweel lower 1/4 panel. When I saw the filler down in the lower 1/4 I almost got sick and prayed it was not filled in rust. Thank goodness it was just a dent.

Oh and by the way, the car and all parts will be stored indoors during the process.

I would skip a metal wash. I would probably just skip the etch as well and just epoxy the metal.
Dupont makes a nice epoxy.
Or give this place a try
www.southernpolyurethanes.com (http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com)

On my next projects thats what Ill be using...Eric

Thanks for the info. Most likely some time wil pass as I get to each section of the car before BC/CC, so it looks like I can epoxy section by section and just go back and scuff with 600 then shoot a fresh seal coat, then BC/CC. That's actually what I did with the Mustang Conv. Sprayed a seal coat of epoxy, then shot it with single stage. Supposedly doing so casues the top coats to bond to the primers also.

Thanks again. Sure more questions will follow as we go.

Sounds to me like you have a great plan. Get it clean, fix it, seal it up... The small ammount of extra work should pay big dividends in quality.

Good Luck!

Post Pics!

I have to get a member showroom setup. I have some pics of the car as I got it and also some of the progress along the way including the before/after of the frame.