I'm getting ready to have the frame lifted off the body and was wondering if I should have the frame sand blasted before I paint it with POR-15? The frame has had undercoating sprayed on it before. I'm also not looking for top show quality for the frame. Any suggestions.

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67 Malibu Convertible, 2nd Owner since '78
Bonner Springs, KS
A.C.E.S # 4806
N.C.O.A # 5322
67 Malibu Convertible (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/ragtop67malibu283.jpg)

Show quality as in a resto or just a nice driver? I media blasted my 67 then had it powder coated gloss black, don't give a rats a$$ about show stuff, just wanted a high gloss tough finish that will last.

I don't think the POR15 will cut it with the resto judge geeks.

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www.muncie4speed.com (http://www.muncie4speed.com)
Gold 67
1967 Malibu, 2nd owner.
1971 Malibu, been in the family since new.
There is nothing like rowing through the gears at 7500. Stick cars are so much fun they should be a controlled substance!

[This message has been edited by Wally (edited 03-18-2002).]

wou can just wire brush the surface real good and degreas it well too. i'm getting mine dipped first, then making wands to spray por-15 inside the channels and brushing the out side. if you dont get yours dipped to remove all the rust at least spray por-15 all up in the boxed sections.

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Only in America do they have drive-up ATM machines with Braille lettering and people leave cars worth thousands of dollars in the driveway and put our useless junk in the garage. www.EINSTYN.com (http://www.EINSTYN.com) TC#1460, VCEA#2
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1970 Chevelle 454 Wagons

Me, I'd sandblast and paint properly. Then, you can POR inside the rails like others have suggested if you so desire. Any flaking metal will give you problems again if you just POR over it. The car is apart so why not spend the little extra time with it now?

Peter

Yep!! The POR folks are pretty clear on the fact that you have to use por stuff on bare metal.I have found this to be true ,(the POR is peeling off my trunk floor).Bare metal ,then POR-15,that's the only way to go!
Good luck!!

[This message has been edited by ss_72man (edited 03-19-2002).]

Thanks for all the advise. It looks like I'm going to sandblast the frame, sounds like the right move.

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67 Malibu Convertible, 2nd Owner since '78
Bonner Springs, KS
A.C.E.S # 4806
N.C.O.A # 5322
67 Malibu Convertible (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/ragtop67malibu283.jpg)

Ragtop,

I just wire brushed the heck out of my frame and then cleaned it really well. After I rinsed the frame off several times, I used Metal Ready followed by POR 15. I did all of this over 18 months ago and the frame still looks great.

On one place (as a test) I didnt use the metal ready and the POR15 peeled away. Keep in mind that the test section was bare metal with no rust. The makers of POR15 say that if you apply to bare metal, you MUST use the metal ready.

If your applying over rust, you can just use POR15. Of course you'll still need to properly prep the surface. In my case, I opted to use the metal ready because I felt it would be a "best" case scenario.

I'd have to disagree with SS72man on POR15 being used on bare metal only. POR stands for Paint Over Rust....No need to remove the rust before applying POR15 (According to Resto-Motive Labs)

I'm confused. I haven't used POR-15, (paint over rust)but I thought it was supposed to go over cleaned up rust,so to speak. Cal

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TC Member # 1308
http://72sselcamino1.tripod.com/calscaminos/

I just found out the hard way that there is a 6 month shelf life on POR15. I opened sealed containers only to find the stuff was hard as a rock.

72sselcamino , you dont have to remove the rust. it would not hurt to at the very least wire brush any loose flaky scaly rust though. there is no problem with blasting or dipping it first. it just is not necessary. por adheares well to a porce rough surface. smooth metal must use metal ready to etch the metal to give por something to bond to or it will flak right off. you can also put metel ready over rust metal prior to por. i am having my frame dipped by a stripping company. because it is a boxed elky frame and you can not get in it to clean it. when it comes back as bare clean metal i will hose it off and wash it out. spray por's marine clean on it to degreas any spots that have been handled, then i will spray the whole thing down with por's metal ready inside and out. then rinse that off with water. then spray por inside and out. the frame will be used for daily driving and will be around long after i am dead. i have some pics on http://members.aol.com/smartasreality/page3.html
and yes it has a shelf life, buy small containers and only what you can use.

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Only in America do they have drive-up ATM machines with Braille lettering and people leave cars worth thousands of dollars in the driveway and put our useless junk in the garage. www.EINSTYN.com (http://www.EINSTYN.com) TC#1460, VCEA#2
. . _________ . . . . . .. _________
.../___---___\ . . ____/|__|__\___\
(OO[=====]OO) {_______________|
.{}.............{}.....O...............O....
1970 Chevelle 454 Wagons

FO_FDYFO, sounds like you the man with the plan. How about you do mine for me. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif Thanks for the explination, Cal

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TC Member # 1308
http://72sselcamino1.tripod.com/calscaminos/

IMO,POR-15 isn't as good as it was when it first came out.It was like a miracle when first introduced,but now it's medicore at best.I still use it,but it's not as good as it once was,but it's accetable as far as what it does.First used it about 8 years ago when I was working at a resto shop here in CT.

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1970 Chevelle SS396/M20/4.10 My 70 SS396 (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/mr4speed70SS1)
Engine pic (http://chevelles.com/showroom/mr4speed70SSengine2)
1970 Chevelle SS454My 70 SS454 (http://chevelles.com/showroom/mr4speed70ss454)
1968 Oldsmobile Cutlass convertible
1982 Oldsmobile Cutlass 350 Olds,TH350(daily driver)
Chris Corwel,TC Member 785