Here are pic's of what I decided to do instead of removing/replacing the rear glass to deck filler panel. I simply cut some strips of steel and tack welded in, then yesterday I coated with POR-15 and filled seams with a flexible adhesive/seam sealer.

First, here is how my firewall turned out with the PPG basecoat/clearcoat. Thanks Martinsr graemlins/thumbsup.gif
http://users.ev1.net/~jaaustin/chevelle/firewall_cortez.jpg

http://users.ev1.net/~jaaustin/chevelle/rear_window_holes1.jpg

http://users.ev1.net/~jaaustin/chevelle/rear_window_holes2.jpg

http://users.ev1.net/~jaaustin/chevelle/rear_window_patch1.jpg

http://users.ev1.net/~jaaustin/chevelle/rear_window_patch2.jpg

john thats what i would of done too it,ll be fine

I actually did the same except mine was a bit more extensive... what are you planning to use for the trim clip studs?
I was thinking about getting so screws, putting them where they need to be, tack weld them a bit and then coat with POR15? Seems easy enough...

Originally posted by Clark68:
I actually did the same except mine was a bit more extensive... what are you planning to use for the trim clip studs?
I was thinking about getting so screws, putting them where they need to be, tack weld them a bit and then coat with POR15? Seems easy enough... Actually, the studs are all there. They are just hard to see and if I need more protrusion beyond the new fill pieces, I will then go to screws. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Hey if it works go for it,but i just want to add graemlins/sad.gif and yuck!! tongue.gif

Originally posted by supersport396_2000:
Hey if it works go for it,but i just want to add graemlins/sad.gif and yuck!! tongue.gif Well Michael, what would your solution have been ?
BTW, I am using .030 flux core wire in my MIG so the welds are ugly... and this is not a show car restoration, obviously. graemlins/thumbsup.gif
I see you had to go thru some major pains to fix yours (see below).....I did not :D
http://geocities.com/supersport396_2000/rearwindow.htm

I agree it will work, only thing I would of done differently is to weld the pieces 100 percent and not rely on the seam sealer. Water will eventually get through it..also you really should try regular wire with a shielding gas, the welds are much nicer than with the flux. Saves a lot of time grinding. It looks like your heat setting is way low the way the welds look.

I am getting ready to buy a car with the smae problem it is a matching# ss so I will have to fix it.The guy Im buying it from had a guy at a bone yard cut that back section out of another car but I dont know what the body man will say about weiding in place.I will put the vyn top back on so that will cover up any bad spots.There is not much you can do there though.Whatever works s the best way to do that IMO.

Looks good to me, In fact thats my next project on mine. we just did my buddies el camino and it came out great. Thats what the body man would have done if ya took to him. Saving money and learning is the best isnt it

The idea is good but you really shouldn't weld over rust like that, instead remove completely and replace without lap joints. Hope it lasts.

Thanks for the thumbs up and advice guys. I had my welder set on low setting of "A" and wire speed of 1.5 and after doing that first ugly piece, I found that I needed to move a bit quicker. I think I was having trouble between not having a "good" ground and having solid clean bare steel to weld to. I did coat this completely with POR-15 and then sealed the seams, so I hope it will hold up. I also plan to shoot a coat of epoxy primer and paint on it as well just for added protection when I paint the rest of the car.

It is great to save money and learn. I'm having a great time on this project and the reward will be awesome when it's completed. graemlins/waving.gif