Hey all,
I have a slight problem. My 72 Chevelle recieved a driveway paint job from the previous owner. Now, it doesnt look really bad, but it is by no means an award winning job! It has orange peel, sagging in some spots, and even a spot where a bug rolled around in the paint. Kinda sucks! Anyways, I thought I could make it look better by colorsanding with 2000 grit paper. The problem is that when the fenders (the only pieces I did so far) have the sun hit them at a certain angle, you can see swirls and a bit or haze. This only happens in the right sun, otherwise it looks perfect and really shines. Anyone know what I can do to fix it. Thanks a bunch!!!

Have you tried buffing it after colorsanding. I may get rid of the swirl marks.

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Mat Ellison
Lincoln, Ne
70 SS 396 Chevelle
62 Impala Sport Coupe
2001 Grand Prix GT
Aces #2424

www.angelfire.com/amiga/elliboom (http://www.angelfire.com/amiga/elliboom)

All your base are belong to us

I've had very good luck with color sanding by WET sanding with 2000 grit, keeping plenty of water flushing the grit away. Wipe with a clean towel every few seconds to check on smoothness (consistent satin finish-no unsanded valleys). Use a thin foam rubber backing block and sand at 45 deg angles. Then buff with 3M Finesse It II on a foam pad with buffer at about 1500 rpm. Then hand polish with Meguiars Show Car Glaze. After a couple months wax for protection.

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von '69 300 Dlx SS TC #15 ACES #1575 HSCA #5
My '69 SS (http://mywebpage.netscape.com/jerryacheson/vons69.html)

[This message has been edited by von (edited 11-30-2002).]

I buffer with an electric rotating buffer. I tried using Turtle wax heavy duty compound, Meguirs body scrub, black polish (not sure of brand), Finish 2001, and Meguirs cleaner wax. I must have tried buffing with these at least 25 times! Honestly. Ive also tried using an orbital buffer. When I sanded, I used a rag and squished water out of it as I was sanding to keep everything wet. I just dont know why it wont come out. Maybe I can hope for no more sunny days (yeah right! I live in south louisiana!).

Your major problem is the Turtle Wax Heavy duty compound. Using that stuff is a sure guarantee of getting swirls in acrylic enamel or urethane. Trust me...as long as you use that stuff, you'll have swirls/haze.

If you have enough paint build left, use a mild machine compound, follow with the Finese-it II, then a a good glaze such as 3Ms black(dark gray) machine glaze. Use a different buffing pad for each kind of product. Use foam with the Finese-it II and glaze. A white wool pad is ok for the mild compound.

Go to a paint supply store and buy a bottle of 3M perfect-it II compound.Using that Turtle wax stuff will get you nowhere,might as well throw some mud on it and buff it!The 3M is about $20 a bottle but will get you the results your looking for.

Agree with vettefella and 70isfine that turtle wax is way to course. Also agree on the 3M perfect-it system I use the III not the II, any differnce I have no idea.

Few things Ive learned, different pads for the diff compounds. I use all foam pads for buffing no longer use wool. Also after done with the first compounding, I wash the car with water and soap to remove the left over compound off the surface. If you dont wash it off the first compound just intermixs with the second and both compounds fight each other, the second compound or machine glaze just cant get the shine with the first compound still on the surface.

For a "good mild machine compound" I use 3M Microfinishing compound on a wool pad. That stuff cuts fast. I've used that after wetsanding with 1500 grit, but still followed by the Finesse It on a foam pad. I've had better results lately with just the 2000 grit and Finesse It II only. Get ready for sticker shock on the 3M products. The Finesse It stuff is over $30 a quart. Thankfully it goes a long way. It can be found at many "serious" auto parts stores. You don't need a $200 buffer for occasional use. I use a $50 2 speed Black and Decker single action (on low speed). Don't use a random orbit polisher and keep it moving. Don't hold it still or you'll burn the paint and stay away from creases and edges.

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von '69 300 Dlx SS TC #15 ACES #1575 HSCA #5
My '69 SS (http://mywebpage.netscape.com/jerryacheson/vons69.html)

[This message has been edited by von (edited 12-01-2002).]

Von has it right. If you didn't sand at 45 degree both ways you may never get the swirls out. A little soap in the water and keep flushing the surface is the bet process.As soonas you feel a drag on the paper it's dirty keep it wet and clean.

I went out an bought a 3m compound and finish (they both come in a small black bottle). I tried that with the buffer and nothing! Just made more swirls. So, I tried it by hand and...BINGO! I guess the furry pads I was using were the whole problem! Thanks you guys!

Probably still had some other compound in the pad. You should be using a foam pad with the 3M for results. Finesse It and Perfect It are the best thing going.

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66 Malibu
67 Chevelle SS (In Progress)
70 Chevelle SS 575hp 454
72 Chevelle ss 350
Assorted Mopars
70 GTO(In Progress)

Throw all the pads in the washing machine to clean them. Like they said before: don't mix pads and when sanding have the water trickling out of the hose not a bucket. If you have heavy orange peel or runs start with 600 or 1000 grit to cut the stuff down faster. Then move the to fine stuff. I'll sand runs with 400 on a little block and move up the grits till I'm at 2000

Von, could you please explain what you mean by sanding in 45 degree angles? I dont think I quite understand. Also, Is there a posibility that I sanded my clear off? If so, how would I know?

There's an easier way to do this guys. I used 3M Finishing Film, dry, then compounded and buffed.

The finishing film comes with hook&loop backing in 1500 or 2000 grit. you use it in conjunction with a soft backing pad on a DA sander. You can use it wet but dry will work fine as long as you take the time to clean the surface of any material that could cause deep scratches. In fact, I think dry is better because you can see the orange peel, runs, or other imperfections go away. the fine dust from the sanding actually acts as a guide coat.

As with a buffer you can't sand corners or edges due to the danger of cutting through but it will minimize the hand sanding needed.

Once the sanding is done then the hard part is the buffing, which has been covered pretty well in the above post.

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ACES member# 5093
Elcaminos are special!
I'd rather walk around with a Chevrolet hubcap in my hand than drive a Ford

Ole Paint (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/olepaint1)

I don't even bother with the finesse it II anymore. The III is way better than the II. Same cutting action but the III wipes off much easier and breaks down while buffing unlike the II. Just my 2 cents. But I learned it from experience. Also if you mix a bit of water with it as the shine starts coming out and use less pressure it'll leave a swirl free finish. Even on a black car. Now I do this on a low speed air buffer.

Good luck RandyB..

P.S. after you learn the technique your home free.

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by southernpride72:
Von, could you please explain what you mean by sanding in 45 degree angles? I dont think I quite understand. Also, Is there a posibility that I sanded my clear off? If so, how would I know?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

1st sand in one direction, say at a slight angle with the length of the panel, then sand at approx a 45 degree angle to the direction you previously sanded. This ensures complete and even coverage. You can tell if you've gone through the clear when the residue becomes the color of the base coat instead of milky white. Also it won't buff to a full gloss.


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von '69 300 Dlx SS TC #15 ACES #1575 HSCA #5
My '69 SS (http://mywebpage.netscape.com/jerryacheson/vons69.html)

Ok, good, when I was sanding, I never had any black residue. Thank goodness. And thank you guys. You have been of great help!

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1972 Malibu, 406ci, TH350, 2500 stall, Can't let out all of the secrets, Daily Driver!!
All Throttle...No Bottle

"Eat more Rice!"

One more tip to avoid going through the clear; every few seconds wipe the area you've been sanding dry with a towel. As soon as you have an even smooth "sanded" texture (no unsanded dots between orange peel high spots, etc.), stop sanding there.

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von '69 300 Dlx SS TC #15 ACES #1575 HSCA #5
My '69 SS (http://mywebpage.netscape.com/jerryacheson/vons69.html)