I am getting ready to paint my 69. I decided to go with hugger orange. Any suggestions on a paint to use would be great as well as what reducers and hardeners to use. I have painted a couple of small things that turned out pretty well but I have never clear coated anything. My plan is to clear coat this if it turns out good so I would appreciate any info on clear coating. What kind of gun to use. Or should I even try to clear coat with my inexperience. Thanks

I'd go base coat clear coat. The orange base sprays very easy and you will have no problem with it. The clear isn't a problem either. Talk to your paint guy at the store. Your not getting any experience if you don't try. Don't freak out when your finihed and you have a less then prefect paint job. A little color sanding and buffing will fix just about any paint screw up and have you prouder than ever.
Good luck,
Roger

I agree with the last post. I painted the interior of my 65 using PPG DBC bc/cc, I never painted before in my life. It turned out almost perfect. I used a hvlp devilbiss finish line 2 gun that cost 150.00. My body man whos doing the exterior asked me why I didnt do the whole thing. Just do your research first and ask questions...Good luck.

Thanks for the info. What do you mean by "color sanding". How long after the base coat can you apply the clear? Does the base have to be completely dry?

http://www.guildclassiccars.com/restoration_articles.htm
http://www.guildclassiccars.com/a_layman's_guide_to_restoration_part_5.htm
http://www.guildclassiccars.com/a_laymans_guide_to_restoration_part_6.htm

There's also a fun article in CarCraft this month. A 2 or 3 part series.
HTH?

The base has to full flash off, meaning solvents have evaporated,and dry to touch. You have several hours, depends on material but i scuff mine if over 6. You should read the tech sheets for the material your applying, it will give information about flash times, air pressure, tip size etc.
Color sanding is sanding top layer smooth, in the days of lacquer, and single stage paints, color comes off. Same deal as with clears, you sand but no color removed.....hopefully. If it does, you went too far. Hope this helps.

I am going to respectfully disagree with the above only because there are a thousand ways to skin a cat. Especially in auto body work and painting.
A solid color like Hugger Orange looks just as good as BC/CC in a single stage urethane paint system. It's also a little easier to paint with for beginners because you are skipping a few steps. And it's easier to correct mistakes with single stage paints. Blending in single stage is much easier than BC/CC when doing repair work later on. The single stage will look just as 'deep' as the BC/CC when color sanded and buffed. I like single stage for solid colors and BC/CC for mettalics and pearls. Just my $.02

Why do people use Bc/Cc on solids then. Is it just for the added protection of the clear?

Thanks for all the help. I think I will go with the single stage paint since I have never done a bc/cc and I am not going to have a show car here. I was wondering if the orange is a common enough color that it is easy to find. I was thinking of going dupont? Unless anyone knows of a reason not too or if another brand is better or easier. Thanks again
graemlins/clonk.gif

I think that most folks don't realize that single stage can look as good as BC/CC. Add to that the fact that most shops use a BC/CC paint system. That's the only type of paint they stock and use.
There's no more 'protection' with clear coat that single stage. Single stage urethane is just as durable and has just as much shine as clear coats. You can also paint clear coat over single stage, but I see no reason to do so unless there's some artwork you want to bury under the clear. I would use a base coat system for this. But I have seen many combinations performed. I always ask owners of cars with awesome paint jobs about the work performed and what they used. I sometimes can't believe what I hear when I thought I've heard it all! There are a thousand ways to paint a car but I belive the best for a beginner to acheive the best results would be a single stage urethane. That way you can back and correct mistakes easier.
The color is still popular and readily available.
If you find an auto body paint supplier that carries DuPont, you can ask for the Omni brand. MTK, a less expensive Urethane that's easy to use and just as good. The Hugger Orange code is MTK2084 A

I am no painter or body man, but what ever happened to imron paint that used to be popular? just curious. thanx

I agree with you Jimmy except that Omni is made by PPG :D

Omni isent that ppg's comershal line? That is the paint my shop uses when we have to paint somthing and it seems to stant up to abuse really good concidering i work in a repair shop for one of the largest construction company in the south east. One question whats diffrent obout Omni than their normal line of paint?

Omni is PPG's cheaper line of paint. The basecoats compared to the regular line-Deltron, dont cover as well and are somewhat transparnet. The clears have a yellowish tint to them. Omni is in the same line as dupont's nason, a cheaper version of its higher quailty paint.

I agree with you Eric about Omni's base being a bit transparent but I have found this only on light metallic colors.I have found if you reduce it 75% instead of 100% coverage is better,on the other hand some colors are low hiding no matter who makes them.As far as their clears go I have yet to see any of their clears yellow whether they are out of the can or after they are applied.I did a job for a fellow 3 years ago using their 161 high solids clear and it has been out in the elements and it still looks as good as the day I sprayed it.I would even use their stuff on my chevelle :D Anyway this is just my oppinion from my experiences and not meant to start a peeing match!

Oops! Thanks for keeping me straight!

The car was primed about 6 months ago and then I quit working on it. It was always inside and never drove in any bad weather, just got some dust on it but I was wondering if it needs to primed again. It does not have any rust and it still looks fine. The only thing I can see that it needs is a little bit of sanding but I didnt know if it hurts primer to leave it like that. Finally I was wondering what to clean/prep it with after I sand. Thanks