Hi
On a tight budget here, and about to pay to have the entire body and frame sandblasted. I know I need to prime them after that.

From a cost persepctive, it appears like Dupont is most expensive, followed by PPG ..and then House of Kolor is the cheapest to get my car into primer.

I was quoted by the House of Kolor guy that all of two quarts of epoxy primer and hardener would cost me just under $100 and with that I won't need to put another primer over the top of that until I am ready.

PPG says I need to get the primer surfacer on over the initial primer within 7 days, and the price was substantially higher. Dupont even higher by a bit.

The process the PPG guy recommended was DPLF epoxy primer followed by K36 Acrylic urethane primer surfacer.

Base coat would be DBC Deltron 2000 then clear coat is Concept DCU 2021.

Is it the types of primer or the brands that are making a big difference in price?

Any thoughts or advice?

"onabudget" Steve

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My opinions are usually worth what they cost you. But once in a while I know what I am talking about. Humor, fun, a few new friends, and good ole knowledge of these classics are why I am here. Your mileage may vary. ACES # 04981

Hi Steve,
This is DG in Springfield, Ohio. Another Ohio member, cool. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/cool.gif

I started out with some Epoxy color-tinted primer. It's the same stuff CarPaint in Fairborn sells for about $70 a quart. Plus you hafta buy reducer at $20. I bought a gallon, at cost, from Carl Young before he passed (C & J body Shop) this year. If I need more I'm gonna try to cut a deal with CarPaint. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/frown.gif

I had intended to buy all the primer/paint from Carl. Now I am in the same boat as you. Course, I get to use the paint booth at the Auto Hobby shop on base for next to nothing.

What kind of final pant job are you looking at? One place you want to spend the extra $ for is the Epoxy primer. I figure another $400 in paint/clear will finish the car (based on Dupont/PPG prices). I have a contact with BigSky paints (source for Epoxy primer & paint) and they have a great clear too. You have to buy a gallon though, no quarts.

Anyways, I called down to House of Kolor and asked about more Epoxy primer too. I was surprised to hear the prices too. Only bad thing I heard is that it's really thin, you might hafta use more reducer to get more than a wash. I'd recommend a tinted-primer because it takes less base to finish the color when you paint. You only need enuff tint to start the color towards your paint.


Carl recommended that I skip the primer surfacer, and just reduce the top coat of Epoxy 20% more.

Where are you getting the body media blasted? How much? I know a guy that is very reasonable for sand blasting frames in New Carlisle. But, he dosen't do car bodies. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/frown.gif

I have used POR-15 on the 12 bolt I had built up, and the inside of my trunk and the floors of my 70 Chevelle. I think 2 quarts of the stuff would cover your frame twice, and you can do it yourself with some decent brushes! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

Drop me a line when you decide ,or if you wanna come see the primer or the POR-15 I used.
Later.

If you are going to use urethane primer (K36 or some other brand) you will be far better off using an etch primer, especially on metal that is not new. This should be cheaper than epoxy, which is inferior to etch anyway. The only thing to remember is, if you don't apply paint on the urethane primer within a short time, (check manufacturer's tech sheet), you will have to sand it to get proper adhesion. This means that on parts like the frame, you will want to apply the whole process "wet on wet". That is, apply etch primer first, 20-30 minutes later apply the urethane primer, mixed as a sealer (again, check tech sheet), 20- 30 min. later, apply a single stage urethane top coat. On the body, apply etch and urethane primer the same as above, but top coat doesn't have to be applied right away because you are going to sand it before you paint.
Gordon VM
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