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c.c.c Nov 24th, 01, 5:06 PM I have block sanded the primer & top coat of a door on a 69 chevelle several times. It looks good up close, but if you stand back 20 feet and sight down the door you can still see some waves. Any idea on how to get rid of them would be appreciated. How can I get a catalog for Richmond Gears? Thank you Jerry Kachmarchi c.c.c@forspeed.com vettefella Nov 24th, 01, 7:04 PM Use a 12" inch block if you aren't already doing so. For the first blocking, I like to use 220 grit. Don't apply a lot of pressure to the block while sanding. It causes the metal to flex resulting in waves. AlMyPal39 Nov 25th, 01, 11:06 PM Usually I use a guide coat when I sand primer. Use a lond board sanding block and sand in an overlapping X pattern (cross-hatch pattern). [This message has been edited by AlMyPal39 (edited 12-01-2001).] von Nov 26th, 01, 3:05 AM The key to getting my car smooth was putting on a thick coat of Dupont Uroprime, which is a heavy primer-surfacer, with a large nozzle, then blocking with a longboard and 8" piece of stir stick. My body shop did this after my best block sanding efforts still left some waves due to the primer-surfacer I used not being thick enough. ------------------ von '69 300 Dlx SS TC #15 ACES #1575 My '69 SS (http://sites.netscape.net/von69ss/homepage) red2rider Nov 26th, 01, 6:29 AM Was there filler applied? If not it might need some. Primer can only do so much. A guide coat of black and a reaaly stiff sanding block using long strokes should take care of most of it. c.c.c Dec 1st, 01, 6:31 PM [QUOTE]Originally posted by AlMyPal39: Usually I use a guide cost when I sand primer. Use a lond board sanding block and sand in an overlapping X pattern (cross-hatch pattern).[/QUOTE THANKS GUYS 70isfine Dec 1st, 01, 9:18 PM Polyester primer works great too.Its good if your body work skills aren't the greatest.Its more like a skim coat of filler,block it with 220 wet and go from there. | ||